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#1 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 12:53 PM

What type of oil for B&S 18 twin opposed in 917.255919. Detergent or Non-detergent? And does anyone know what the detergent is intended to do? 


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#2 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 01:06 PM

The detergent does the exact same thing the detergent in your washing machine does - it keeps dirt suspended so it doesn't settle on things.  Without detergent all the soot that blows by the rings ends up making sludge in the engine.

 

I think you'll have difficulty finding a non-detergent motor oil.

 

One of the reasons people avoid going to synthetic oil on older engines is it tends to have a lot of detergent.  That can clean up the deposited sludge which may be sealing up deteriorating gaskets.  Then the engine leaks.

I do not know what Briggs specified but where you live an automotive 10W40 should be fine year-round.


Edited by MiCarl, February 12, 2016 - 01:07 PM.

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#3 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 01:06 PM

I run detergent oil in any engine with a full pressure oiling system. The detergent gas a cleaning effect to prevent sludge build up.

Back when hydraulic lifters were being introduced , sludge would build up and plug lifters in very short order with the oils available in the 50s and 60s.  A whole industry was built on oil additives to clean hydraulic lifters, some of those additives are still available.

However the quality of todays oils have improved so much I DO NOT THINK THEY ARE NEEDED.

Run a good detergent oil and change it regularly.

 

The only time I would recommend non-detergent is in an antique engine with dipper lubrication.

Those rods have a dipper on the rod end that dips a bit of oil from the crankcase. With a detergent oil it can cause foaming and oil starved bearings.


Edited by JD DANNELS, February 12, 2016 - 01:12 PM.

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#4 kellerman88 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 01:25 PM

The detergent does the exact same thing the detergent in your washing machine does - it keeps dirt suspended so it doesn't settle on things.  Without detergent all the soot that blows by the rings ends up making sludge in the engine.

 

I think you'll have difficulty finding a non-detergent motor oil.

 

One of the reasons people avoid going to synthetic oil on older engines is it tends to have a lot of detergent.  That can clean up the deposited sludge which may be sealing up deteriorating gaskets.  Then the engine leaks.

I do not know what Briggs specified but where you live an automotive 10W40 should be fine year-round.

 

Tractor Supply carries regular SAE30 in a non-detergent. At least the one near me does. Dunno if that would help you guys at all or not. Might be a starting point though. 


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#5 craftsmanmowerfreak OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 01:30 PM

i will tell you this. someone in a reply mention synthetic oil. that is a biiiiig no in alot of the newer briggs unless it clearly states for it. synthitic oil will soften plastic parts (example being your oil slinger and governor assembly in that twin). has far has detergent oil is all i run


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#6 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 02:15 PM

Tractor Supply carries regular SAE30 in a non-detergent. At least the one near me does. Dunno if that would help you guys at all or not. Might be a starting point though. 

So does Rural King, and that is what I use year round in my GT's.....SAE30!


Edited by KC9KAS, February 12, 2016 - 04:43 PM.

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#7 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 02:48 PM

Castrol GTX hi mileage 10w-30 Synthetic blend in the green jug works good in most temps down to around 0*f to -5*f 0f before it starts to get thick.

 

Found out that a small engine with SAE30 doesn't crank over very well when the oil gels up when cold.

Pulled the dipstick in my snow blower and my old Sears SS14 (both had SAE30 in them) at 10*f and the oil was as thick as Tar.Neither one of them wanted to crank over.Even the 110v electric starter on  the blower was struggling to crank.

 

SAE30 wt is way to thick in the colder months and gets really thin when Hot on an air cooled engine and 10w40 is also to thin when it gets hot.

 

Personally I would put 15w50 fully synthetic oil in it year round if you can afford it.It's good for High heat and doesn't sludge up when the temps drop.


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#8 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 04:58 PM

I would say if you motor has a filter than you can use detergent oil or synthetic.  No filter than use non-detergent oil.


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#9 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 07:49 PM

I run straight 30 ND on any engine I'm uncertain of.
If I haven't been in it, I'm hesitant to put detergent in it. Always told that it would stir up any sludge and put it thru the engine.

#10 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 08:21 PM

Being in Florida I don't think you need a multi grade. Your engine doesn't have an oil filter. This is what I use, 30W Straight, Diesel blend 

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#11 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 11:51 PM

Being in Florida I don't think you need a multi grade. Your engine doesn't have an oil filter. This is what I use, 30W Straight, Diesel blend 

50/50 around here.  Half the people say detergent, the other non-detergent. What keeps going through the gray matter is something read long ago about one, especially in a B&S, and can't recall which it was.

Thanks Larry, been kicking the idea of going with Rotella for quite some time, it or RPM Delo. I know they are both over the road truck types and figured they'd be great for a piddly two cylinder engine.

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#12 Marty'70 ONLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 09:26 AM

Advance auto parts also carries nd30.
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