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Front Electric PTO clutch for 1970 Ford 120

front pto for 1968 ford 120

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#1 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 11:55 AM

Hello Folks!

Can anyone tell me the steps to remove an electric front PTO clutch off a K301 kohler engine for a 1970 era Ford 120?  Please help.  see attached photos.  Thanks .

Attached Thumbnails

  • Engine carb side.jpg
  • Engine Muffler side.jpg


#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 01:35 PM

Did you check in our Manuals Section? When I took the PTO off my LGT125 (years ago) it just came off by unduing the obvious bolts and maybe a clip and key on the crankshaft. Good Luck, Rick



#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 01:54 PM

Looking at the parts list for these tractors, it looks like that center bolt comes out. I haven't had to pull one as yet!



#4 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 03:53 PM

Page 16 and 34 on this manual Might help a little.

It's the only one that I could find with a parts breakdown for an Electric PTO.

 

 

http://gardentractor...hief-part-list/

 

I broke the pulley on an old 120 trying to get it off.They get really really stuck on there after 40-50 years especially if the tractor has sat outside.Once you get the cover off and the coil and remove the belt guard and all of the set screws in the pulleys spray the whole pulley down with some really really good penetrating oil and let it sit and soak for a few days.

 

I got in a hurry trying to remove mine.i didn't need the clutch it was burnt up and the hydro was shot.I was after the engine and seat pan to put on in my rusty knocking 100 with manual clutch.

 

Do Not Pry on the Cast pulley,Even a little will bust a chunk out of it.They are very brittle.


Edited by EricFromPa, February 08, 2016 - 03:57 PM.


#5 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 05:20 PM

Don't know for certain...BUT, if like on others, remove the center bolt that goes into the crank end. Take light and look into the clutch at that area. Might be some fine threads on center BIGGER than the bolt you just took out. Thinking 5/8", but might be diff, have to try some. Check threads, don't force. When you find bolt that fits those threads it should bottom out on crank end, then start pushing on crank as you tighten and pull it off. As noted penetrant in this are and along back that you can reach is good idea. Don't be real forcefull at first. Might be a kind of snap when it first releases, then come off as you turn in bolt.  This is how I've taken them off when they don't seem to have metal bolted to the block in back, like more modern ones have. I think I'm seeing a STOP rod in pictures which keeps it from spinning the electrics part when running. Make sure that isnt bolted to the block. Cant tell for sure in picture, it might be just resting against a stop at the block?


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#6 pick-to-stone OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 05:33 PM

the blot in the middle and on the sides tacks the cover of and thats all i now but i got to ask what are you doing to the engin

Edited by pick-to-stone, February 08, 2016 - 05:33 PM.


#7 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2016 - 11:21 AM

the blot in the middle and on the sides tacks the cover of and thats all i now but i got to ask what are you doing to the engin

Thanks,  I am Rebuilding the Engine.  I have restored the rest of the tractor and the engine is the last thing I need to restore. 



#8 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2016 - 11:28 AM

Don't know for certain...BUT, if like on others, remove the center bolt that goes into the crank end. Take light and look into the clutch at that area. Might be some fine threads on center BIGGER than the bolt you just took out. Thinking 5/8", but might be diff, have to try some. Check threads, don't force. When you find bolt that fits those threads it should bottom out on crank end, then start pushing on crank as you tighten and pull it off. As noted penetrant in this are and along back that you can reach is good idea. Don't be real forcefull at first. Might be a kind of snap when it first releases, then come off as you turn in bolt.  This is how I've taken them off when they don't seem to have metal bolted to the block in back, like more modern ones have. I think I'm seeing a STOP rod in pictures which keeps it from spinning the electrics part when running. Make sure that isnt bolted to the block. Cant tell for sure in picture, it might be just resting against a stop at the block?

Thanks so much!  I was wondering what the larger threads Inside the assembly were for.  That makes sense that you screw a larger bolt into them to force the assembly off.  Am I to assume there is nothing else holding the assembly on other than the bolt attaching it to the crank?  Please advise.  I am restoring the entire tractor including the engine rebuild and paint.  I included a couple  of photos. 



#9 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2016 - 11:28 AM

Don't know for certain...BUT, if like on others, remove the center bolt that goes into the crank end. Take light and look into the clutch at that area. Might be some fine threads on center BIGGER than the bolt you just took out. Thinking 5/8", but might be diff, have to try some. Check threads, don't force. When you find bolt that fits those threads it should bottom out on crank end, then start pushing on crank as you tighten and pull it off. As noted penetrant in this are and along back that you can reach is good idea. Don't be real forcefull at first. Might be a kind of snap when it first releases, then come off as you turn in bolt.  This is how I've taken them off when they don't seem to have metal bolted to the block in back, like more modern ones have. I think I'm seeing a STOP rod in pictures which keeps it from spinning the electrics part when running. Make sure that isnt bolted to the block. Cant tell for sure in picture, it might be just resting against a stop at the block?

Thanks so much!  I was wondering what the larger threads Inside the assembly were for.  That makes sense that you screw a larger bolt into them to force the assembly off.  Am I to assume there is nothing else holding the assembly on other than the bolt attaching it to the crank?  Please advise.  I am restoring the entire tractor including the engine rebuild and paint.  I included a couple  of photos. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Hydro pump and resivoir tank after.jpg


#10 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2016 - 11:36 AM

Page 16 and 34 on this manual Might help a little.

It's the only one that I could find with a parts breakdown for an Electric PTO.

 

 

http://gardentractor...hief-part-list/

 

I broke the pulley on an old 120 trying to get it off.They get really really stuck on there after 40-50 years especially if the tractor has sat outside.Once you get the cover off and the coil and remove the belt guard and all of the set screws in the pulleys spray the whole pulley down with some really really good penetrating oil and let it sit and soak for a few days.

 

I got in a hurry trying to remove mine.i didn't need the clutch it was burnt up and the hydro was shot.I was after the engine and seat pan to put on in my rusty knocking 100 with manual clutch.

 

Do Not Pry on the Cast pulley,Even a little will bust a chunk out of it.They are very brittle.

Thanks so much the manual you attached is very helpful. Another person suggested that there is larger threads inside the clutch assembly you can see after you take the bolt holding the clutch assembly on to the crank  so you can screw in a larger bolt to force the assembly off the crank



#11 pick-to-stone OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2016 - 12:13 PM

Thanks,  I am Rebuilding the Engine.  I have restored the rest of the tractor and the engine is the last thing I need to restore.


no problem get me some pics when you get the tractor it well mabey give me a idea on my 120

#12 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2016 - 06:32 PM

I was just going by how they come off a power King tractor, about same age, and the type clutch that needs a chain or rod in your case to keep them from turning when it engages. Yours does have some other little tins there that might need to unbolt also and maybe they come off with it or before?? Don't forget to keep it oiled and engine will need to be kept from turning as you do this. I sometimes use an impact, BUT very short shots at a time and stop if I see no movement. Then just leave it under tension, more oil, come back later and try again. Maybe a tap or two on bolt head too has broken the tight grip and starts it coming off smoother after that initial release. Clear as Mud?






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