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Prepping for engine removal


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#16 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 05:42 PM

Yep goes back as it came out just go slow sliding the engine back toward the transmission if it stops check that the input shaft is aligning with the clutch bushing, I used a hyd jack under the transmission to raise or lower it as needed,now is the time to put a new hydraulic pump belt on and its a good idea to place a spare belt in the hogs head. Sounds like you'll bet back up and running in short order. Did you have to go oversize on the piston and bore? How was the crank did it clean up or did it have to be ground under?

Nothing wrong with the plastic fuel pumps they have been in use for many years now.


Edited by MNGB, February 12, 2016 - 05:44 PM.


#17 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 12:37 AM

I went with a standard piston and rod. Crank cleaned up well and was still within .001" spec. I need the tractor for snow removal so this will do just fine for me for the time being. Later on it will probably see a full rebuild.
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#18 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 09:36 PM

Got it back in today and cranking. I installed the nipple on the fuel pump backwards and didn't have the tool to remove them so I never got it running today. Tomorrow's plan if the temp outside isnt too harsh

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Edited by a.graham52, February 13, 2016 - 09:38 PM.


#19 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 03:41 PM

Alright guys I need ur help. Tractor won't shut off with the key. I only had one wire off the switch and I now want to verify I have everything right.


S goes to starter solenoid.
M goes to ignition coil and under cooling shroud.
B goes to battery side of start solenoid.
L haa wire that goes to ignition module and lights. Sound right?

#20 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 05:57 PM

Hi which ignition system is on your engine, battery / points and condenser and auto type coil, or the electronic with the trigger by the flywheel and a half round coil? Ok I looked back at your picture and see you have the electronic system so this is how it should be wired

S to the start solenoid

M to the ignition coil

B to the battery side of the solenoid

L to the lights and the PTO switch it is not connected to the ignition

 

The electronic ignition is self powered it needs no electrics from the battery system.Attached File  kohler electronic ignition.pdf   1.4MB   18 downloads

 


Edited by MNGB, February 20, 2016 - 06:06 PM.


#21 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 06:01 PM

I knew u guys needed that too. Mag ignition with the solid state coil

#22 Glenn Ayers ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 10:43 PM

On the mag system (M position) ... doesn't the switch need to be grounded .. to ground out the mag to shut it off ?



#23 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 10:46 PM

Yes. Didn't have thus problem before I removed the engine. Also new switch

#24 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 09:53 AM

So I took the wire off the "m" terminal and grounded it to the frame and still was running. Wtf

#25 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 10:47 AM

Hi, the wire to the M terminal has to be connected to the coil,you said you replaced the switch with a new one? Does it have the exact same terminals (marked the same) as the old one? Does the new switch have a terminal marked G?  Also if you have a test light check to see if there is continuity between the M terminal and the tractor frame. In an earlier post you said you had a wire from L going to igniton did you disconnect that one?



#26 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 11:05 AM

M goes to ignition coil and also what ever the little box is in the flywheel.

I goes to the rectifier (I said ignition module before) and light switch.

There is a G terminal but it is also case grounded as well. Switch was fully functional before pulling the engine out. I had the ignition switch installed for about a month now

#27 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 11:16 AM

OK sounds like its connected right so what I would do is with engine running use a jumper wire connected to the tractor frame/engine and connect/touch the other end to the M terminal and wire going to the coil if that doesn't stop the engine the wire from the switch to the coil could be bad (broken or a bad connector) then connect the jumper wire directly to the coil terminal it should stop, if not you have a coil problem, but my money is on the wire between the switch and the coil,


Edited by MNGB, February 21, 2016 - 11:17 AM.


#28 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 11:23 AM

I have touched the m wire to ground and tractor still runs. I have to unplug the coil to get it to shut off at this point

#29 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 11:39 AM

Ok that is not right grounding that wire to ground is suppose to stop the engine so I looked at the Kohler wiring diagram again and is it possible that the the trigger wires are connect wrong or you may have test the trigger per the Kohler test procedure, you say you have to unplug the  coil to stop the engine what are you unplugging the M wire or the spark plug wire?



#30 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 11:41 AM

I'm unplugging the small wire at the bottom of the engine. It's soldered to the wire that goes to the trigger so that's what I've been doing.




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