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Prepping for engine removal


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#1 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 01:31 PM

73 1424, Simple as the title. Obvious control cables, fuel lines, most of the body, hydro pump ect will have to be removed. But anything I should know about before I did in?

#2 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 01:37 PM

You need to pull off the front sheet metal and dash mounting to clutch, then split at the same dash mount bolts all around the bellhousing to pull engine forward and seperate from trans. The clutch pedal and mech, stays on the trans that way. Depending on if you have front grill mount stubs in front, you may have to tilt the engine some to pass forward enough to clear those and be out of the trans shaft reach. Best to use a hoist or two guys on a bar or something to lift it out. They are HEAVY! 


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#3 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 03:44 PM

Alright, I have it all stripped down now. Am I leaving the bellhousing with the Trans or is the bell housing going to come with the engine. I see the four bolts holding the housing to the block but unsure about the output shaft.

#4 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 04:12 PM

The Bellhousing or sometimes called the Hogs Head by PKer's  is going to stay on the engine. You will have to pull it off and then later remove the flywheel/pulley assembly to get housing off. Getting the flywheel off is another game! Some come off easy, others need to be pulled or driven off. DON'T pry or pull on flywheel surface part, it will break!  There are questions on here about removing that with many options, search or look for those here before trying to remove. There are two set-screws in the pulleys that need to come out. One is into the keyway area, and another is touching the crank in diff position. Make sure the allen wrench fits tight by blowing out the dirt in the set screw first to clean it out. Or, maybe an awl or wire to scrape it out clean to make good fit. PB Blaster or similar in those holes and all around on crank in back and into the front hole in flywheel onto crank. There is a seal and pilot bushing in front of flywheel that will come out easy. Behind those is a snap ring that should be replaced once off. Don't need to take it out to remove, it is just a stop that touches the crank end and locates the flywheel. Many times they are bent in some from clutch pedal pushing on it. They can get bend and clutch won't work well. Replace that with a new one. Sometimes you need to remove bell-housing bolts, can be done with clutch still on and then housing is loose enough to mover around to work on flywheel removal methods. Won't come over the flywheel tho, don't force it. From that area then if needed, you can push flywheel off with botls between pulleys and engine surface. Start small and then use longer bolts as it pushes off. Go slow! Others have used two wedges there against the block and pulley ends to drive off the clutch by pounding on the wedges to jamb and push it off. Once off, the flywheel can be pulled away and housing comes right off. When you re-assemble, the housing can go back on first and tighten up and the flywheel will go in and tighten back up with set screws. You will want to polish up the crank and bore of flywheel to make it slip easier once off. Some folks use 1/8" drill to make divet for the key to bite into the crank in that divot to hole better, not be pushed by clutch pedal action.  As noted, look for other postings on clutch removal and compare. Think there are pictures then also. Think I have seen you on PK Forum on Yahoo also. They have many of same ariticles and pictures there to look at. Just be careful, don't use BIG hammers and let the penetrants used have time to work, like overnight sometimes. Don't hurry and break things.



#5 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 04:19 PM

I'm not on yahoo. Ok, so just for clarification, if I remove the bell housing bolts, engine, flywheel and bell housing come out? I have minimal tools here at home and sounds like I would want to pull the flywheel at worn.

#6 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 04:36 PM

Yep, those eight little bolts that hold the clutch pedal housing onto the bellhousing are where it seperates. Four are also for the dash tin, so it will be loose also and might have to tie it up out of way or such. And, if you have hydraulics, I din't ask before, that pump comes off top of housing also and can stay hooked up to the hoses then, just set back or tied up. Please look at the other postings here. You have a PK manual or info? Don't you have those old books/flyers I think I saw in a post?  Look them over, espicially the parts diagrams for that area.  Might be advantage to join the PK yahoo group. www.yahoogroups/powerkingtractors.com



#7 HANKG ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 04:47 PM

73 1424, Simple as the title. Obvious control cables, fuel lines, most of the body, hydro pump ect will have to be removed. But anything I should know about before I did in?

Lots of pictures next time, helps on reassembly .

#8 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 06:39 PM

Thanks for all the insite

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#9 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 07:02 PM

Alright I'm going after a rod knock. Got it hot one night and it quit on me. Am I looking for anything specific?

#10 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 02:12 PM

Hi, just an added note, be sure to double check the set screws in the clutch / pulley assy sometimes they are doubled with a second set used to lock the first one in place, otherwise your on your way its then to disassemble the engine clean it up and measure everything to see where it is on wear if you don't have a Kohler service manual they are available on the Kohler website free to download.



#11 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 02:22 PM

Hi, just an added note, be sure to double check the set screws in the clutch / pulley assy sometimes they are doubled with a second set used to lock the first one in place, otherwise your on your way its then to disassemble the engine clean it up and measure everything to see where it is on wear if you don't have a Kohler service manual they are available on the Kohler website free to download.

HERE



#12 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2016 - 04:25 PM

those  clutch pullys  are a little tedious to remove. i tried wedges. didint work. then decidide to fab a flat plate removal tool after seening some body else doing that. bill


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#13 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2016 - 06:27 PM

Hi bill3t, can you post some pictures of your tool, sound like it would be a handy thing to have.



#14 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 01:16 PM

i dont think i have any pic of tool. mybe later. its a simple tool. 1\4inch flat plate same diameter of clutch mating surface. drill 6 holes in plate where holes for cluth mount  go. and a center hole drilled out and 1\2 inch nut welded to center. bolt your plate removal tool to pully  use long bolt in center. crank it in and pully will slowly come off of engine shaft. simple tool simular to steering wheel puller. good luck

.bill



#15 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 05:13 PM

New piston and rod from isavetractors as well as a fuel pump. Hatell the thought of a plastic pump but what r u going to do. Good coat of Chevy engine orange and it's ready to go back in. Should slide back onto the Trans with minimal issued right?




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