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Ridemaster cart-3


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#1 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2011 - 07:48 AM

I decided to make up two metal tubes that run down from the dash box.
The choke and throttle cables will run in one tube and the wiring will run in the other tube.
This will keep everything nicely in place and look better than having them tied together with plastic ties.

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I want to put a headlight on this like the other Ridemaster has.
The original headlight kit for the Ridemaster mounts on top of the steering sprocket.
That isn't going to work on this one because the gas tank would be in the way so I'm going to mount it out front on top of the engine.
I flattened one part of a section of 3/4 inch steel tube and drilled holes in it so it can bolt to the top of the head.

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The headlight then clamps onto the round end of the tube.

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Because this is Marie's cart and she will be the one using it most of the time, I want to make it quieter than what it was with the stock muffler.
This is a muffler for a 16 HP Briggs & Stratten engine and I think it will be quieter than the little flow thru muffler that's used on the Wisconsin engines.

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I made up a pipe so the exhaust will exit down and forward.
That should help with the sound and keep all the exhaust away from the operator.
There is a mounting bracket welded to the pipe that bolts to the lower frame under the engine.

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Here's how it looks painted with header paint.

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The front of the Ridemaster cart is finished so I took it all apart in preperation for painting.

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I found these handles off a metal cabinet and I thought they would make nice looking bed rails for the cart.
I'll paint them the same color as the bed.

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I bought a tractor canopy from TSC.
This is the bottom mounting bracket for the tractor canopy.
Originally these brackets bolted to the side of the tractor fenders.
I can't bolt them to this plate under the seats because the rear axles are fastened on the other side of it.

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I'm going to make mounting brackets using 1-1/4 exhaust pipe clamps.
I welded the "U" clamp into the top part of the clamps.
This makes a nice flat area that can then be welded onto the plate under the seats.

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Using the top off 4-more clamps, I bolted these welded clamps onto a section of pipe.
Then I clamped the pipe to the plate and welded the bottom clamps to the plate.

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The mounting clamps are all welded in place.

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I slid the bottom mounts of the canopy frame into the clamps and tightened them down.

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Then I mounted the canopy top in place.

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#2 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2011 - 07:52 AM

Because of the extra weight on the front end, I need to put some counterbalance weight on the rear.
When I turn the front wheels sharply like this, I can lift the opposite rear wheel off the ground easily.

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I can't add weight to the underside of the pickup bed because the rear axles are not designed to withstand that heavy of a weight on them.
I figure that it is going to need at least 80 pounds on each rear wheel and I don't want a big wheel weight hanging on the outside of the wheels.
So I decided to make weights out of lead for the inside of the wheels.

Here is the rear axle.

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I've made weight by filling steel tubes with lead but I've never made a weight to fit the inside of a wheel.
These wheels do not have holes for bolting weights to the wheel so I'm going to form the weights as part of the hub.
First I bolted the axle hub to the wheel.
Then I welded re-rod to it to support the weight of the lead.

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I cut a 2 inch wide strip from an old 5-gallon can.

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This forms the outside diameter of the wheel weight.

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I didn't know if the lead would stick to the wheel or not so I lined it with tinfoil just in case.
As it turned out, this precaution would not have been necessary as the lead did not stick to the 2 inch metal strip so it probably wouldn't have stuck to the rim.

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Here's the wheel ready for pouring.

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This is my "lead smelter" setup.

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I'm using old tire weights and when you melt them down the metal clips float to the surface.
I use a magnet on and extension to remove the clips from the lead.

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Here is the first pour.

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Both wheels are finished and set aside to cool.

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Once the wheels are cool, I unbolted the hubs and removed the weights.

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They turned out to weight 93 pounds each.

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Here's how they look mounted back on the cart.

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With the wheel back on, you can't see the weight at all.

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It isn't very noticeable from the inside either.
I doubt if anyone will even notice that there are weights on it once everything is all painted and the fenders are back on.

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#3 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2011 - 10:12 AM

Very nice.
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#4 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2011 - 10:44 AM

IMPRESSIVE WORK, RAY !!!!!

I admire your creativity, planning, & fabrication!

I love it!
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#5 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2011 - 06:56 AM

Once again Ray you blew me away with this project
Great Job!!!
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#6 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2011 - 07:03 AM

Very impressive, as always.
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#7 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2011 - 07:55 AM

Awesome work as usual Ray, I really like the canopy and the work you did making the wheel weights. :thumbs:
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#8 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2011 - 06:31 PM

As usual, I am Very impressed with your skills Ray! Awesome work! Looks great and is more than functional!
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#9 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2011 - 08:14 PM

Wow...that is truly awesome. The wheel weights inspire me. Very,very, very cool.
  • jdcrawler said thank you




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