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1968 112 HH100 Tecumseh wiring


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16 replies to this topic

#16 RAJ OFFLINE  

RAJ

    JMC fan

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Posted February 04, 2016 - 01:57 PM

They both go to the key, that is a 29 amp system you have if the rectifier is on the blower, the green goes to m, or your own kill switch and I'll will run up to my garage and tell you what terminal the red goes on. I think it goes on L but I'm not 100% sure I will be back

Thanks for that. I am not sure which way I will rewire it but now I know what to do with the two wires. I'd like to go back to an all in one switch so there's less Jerry rigging but I also don't want to run the risk of ruining the engine electronics by not using a separate kill switch. I'll have to think about it.



#17 RAJ OFFLINE  

RAJ

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Posted February 09, 2016 - 05:55 PM

Got most of the 112 wiring redone a couple days ago. I went with the same new generic ignition switch my buddy used and decided to buy a one wire toggle kill switch like EricFromPa suggested.
ab45e22680d6fc0492f34843798ffa4e.jpg
This tractor came with an external regulator-rectifier mounted on the chassis that was no longer needed since the replacement engine has it's own standalone system attached outside of the blower housing. This gave me a red and a green wire to work with. The green (kill) wire will go to the separate on/off toggle switch to keep it away from any power source.

I ran the red wire to the IGN terminal on the key switch allowing it to be connected to the battery while the key is on. If I'm right and the alternator system is working, the battery should charge. I started and ran the engine. Nothing went up in smoke so I am thinking everything should be fine. I plan to add a 25A inline fuse between the battery and the ammeter to prevent any meltdown mishaps in the future. Thanks everyone for the advice.


Edited by RAJ, February 09, 2016 - 07:02 PM.

  • Trav1s said thank you




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