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1981 power king 2414 wont start......


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#1 Outdoororcutt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 01:49 PM

Hey all, 

 

I got a 1981 Power King 2414 that I just acquired.  The past owner was my grandfather that bought it new.  I just installed a new battery and found it did start to turn over and then nothing.  I pulled the starter out and tested it with a jumper cable and found it worked. I pulled all the wiring and made sure all the connections were good.  I pulled the solenoid and got a new one.  I can't seem to find out why it is doing nothing.  I have tested the hot to the solenoid and found it to have current running to it with the help of my 12v tester.  I am lost now at this point...........any suggestions on what my next step should be????

 

Any help would be appreciated.

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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 02:09 PM

Check the ground wire!


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#3 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 02:18 PM

Welcome!

When you had the starter off and tested it, did it take off with such torque that it wanted to rip it out of your hands?  Did the drive gear slam out quick?   They can turn off the tractor but still not have enough power [torque] to turn the engine.


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#4 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 02:23 PM

Just because your starter turned when out of the engine don't mean it is good.  Use jumper cables and connect the neg to - on the battery and to a good ground for the starter.  Hook the other jumper top the + on the battery and hold it BRIEFLY to the cable to the starter.  If it turns over good you know it is between the starter and the battery.  If not, then you have a bad starter and needs rebuilt.


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#5 637Yeoman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 04:18 PM

:ditto:


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#6 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 04:23 PM

Pull the spark plug(s) and attempt to turn by hand.  It's possible the engine is hydro-locked.


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#7 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 04:24 PM

Cleaning battery terminals and where cables ground on engine or frame might help. I use star washers where my cable ends meet the mount bolt or such to bite into the metal on frame or block. Might try the ground direct to the block of engine rather than the frame. OR, have ground cable added from the block mount bolts to the frame. Lots of bolts and holes on PK's to add that, Just a braided one like on cars or big tractors. You sure the engine doesn't have water in cylinder if been outdoors and not run for long time? Kinda hydro-locking then?  Kinda out there on that one. New plug sometimes is magic, but nothing to do with cranking. Battery cables worn at ends, maybe some new ones, bigger if you can find might be good idea. Also the bigger wires from selinoid to the starter.


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#8 Outdoororcutt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 05:29 PM

Great Ideas everyone, I did see the starter did turn over but didn't act like it would take my fingers off of my hand.  I will check it more thoroughly. As for the hydro locking......don't know what that is... but I will research it.



#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2016 - 08:04 AM

Welcome to the forum! I see you have had lots of help. It's always easy to forget about the return connection from the chassis of the starter motor back to the - battery terminal. You can't take this connection for granted and it it's not good you won't get enough voltage to the starter to make it work. When attempting to crank you need to measure from the + terminal on the starter to the starter chassis to make sure you are getting 12v to the starter. If you are getting close to full battery voltage to the starter then it must have an issue or the motor itself is too hard to turn. 


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#10 Outdoororcutt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2016 - 08:17 AM

Thank you everyone for your insight,,,,I pulled the starter again and found it needs a rebuild, or major cleaning!  So a little more work than I thought....but I think it will be worth the effort!  As a new comer to this forum, I can't get over how awesome it is.  I have a 1951 Model 50 John Deere that is going to get a  restore most likely this summer, I think this power king is a great start.    Thank you all for the reply, hopefully I will be able to give others a hand when I get some time under my belt.

 

I will have pictures when I complete the project!


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#11 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2016 - 08:26 AM

If its sat for a while, best to take the plug out and put a little oil in there to lube up the cyl.
Also, don't force anything as you could have a stuck valve or something.

I would take the plug out and turn it over by hand to see if its OK.
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#12 Outdoororcutt OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2016 - 08:31 AM

Anyone ever have trouble with seat sensor kill switch. Can it be bypassed?

Edited by Outdoororcutt, February 04, 2016 - 08:31 AM.


#13 icpik OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2016 - 09:13 AM

I believe the seat sensor can be bypassed.

 

Don Hayes


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#14 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2016 - 02:23 PM

Hi looking at the wiring diagrams I have the seat switch has nothing to do with the ignition system only effects the PTO operation. The PTO switch is connected to the ignition system that switch should have 4 terminals  2 are used to connect the PTO the other 2 connect the ignition system the PTO switch must be in the off position for the ignition connections to be on.


Edited by MNGB, February 04, 2016 - 02:30 PM.


#15 Outdoororcutt OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2016 - 02:36 PM

Well, I just got done bypassing the seat switch and now instead of getting nothing, I get a clicking sound! Headed in right direction I think......




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