Building another O-scale model steam locomotive using parts from the AHM / Rivarossi 0-8-0 plastic locomotive kit that was available back in the 70's.
This will have a wheel arrangement of 2-8-8-2 and be modeled similar to this engine.
The front and rear section was cut off of two of the AHM chassis.
The chassis at the top is what the stock frame looked like from the AHM model kit.
I glued a piece of white styrene to the back of one of the frames to form a pad for the attaching screw that will hold the two frames together.
Using part of a tender drawbar, I glued it to the front of the other frame for the attaching bar.
Then I turned a piece of brass down and taped it to take a 2-56 screw to form a shoulder bolt for the attaching screw.
This screw fastens the two frames together.
With the two frames attached, this shows how much the front frame will be able to rotate in relation to the rear frame.
A model railroad layout has to have wide radius turns in order for this type of locomotive to run on it.
These are flat brass castings to make the leading and trailing truck.
The top casting is for the lead truck but is not long enough to just bend into shape so it is cut into two pieces.
The axle holes are already drilled into this casting but they are larger then the axle ends on the wheels from the AHM kit.
I turned a piece of brass down in the lathe and drilled a smaller hole in it to form a bushing for the axle holes.
The bushing is pressed into the casting part on the right.
The bottom casting is for the trailing truck and needs to have the holes drilled into it for the axle shaft but it is long enough so it just needs to be bent into shape to form the truck.
I used a brass bracket for mounting an electric motor in an engine and bent it so the ends of the casting for the leading truck were held together by the bracket.
Then I soldered the parts together to form the leading truck.
The steam cylinder on the AHM 0-8-0 kit have a third booster cylinder in-between the two outside cylinders ( far left cylinder ).
This booster cylinder is cut off the two steam cylinders that I'm using for the 2-8-8-2 engine.
I use a piece of .015 thick styrene to cover the center part of the cylinders on the front and the back.
Then I spread model putty around the edges to blend them in.
Once the putty has dried, it is sanded down and the two cylinders are painted.
This will have a wheel arrangement of 2-8-8-2 and be modeled similar to this engine.
The front and rear section was cut off of two of the AHM chassis.
The chassis at the top is what the stock frame looked like from the AHM model kit.
I glued a piece of white styrene to the back of one of the frames to form a pad for the attaching screw that will hold the two frames together.
Using part of a tender drawbar, I glued it to the front of the other frame for the attaching bar.
Then I turned a piece of brass down and taped it to take a 2-56 screw to form a shoulder bolt for the attaching screw.
This screw fastens the two frames together.
With the two frames attached, this shows how much the front frame will be able to rotate in relation to the rear frame.
A model railroad layout has to have wide radius turns in order for this type of locomotive to run on it.
These are flat brass castings to make the leading and trailing truck.
The top casting is for the lead truck but is not long enough to just bend into shape so it is cut into two pieces.
The axle holes are already drilled into this casting but they are larger then the axle ends on the wheels from the AHM kit.
I turned a piece of brass down in the lathe and drilled a smaller hole in it to form a bushing for the axle holes.
The bushing is pressed into the casting part on the right.
The bottom casting is for the trailing truck and needs to have the holes drilled into it for the axle shaft but it is long enough so it just needs to be bent into shape to form the truck.
I used a brass bracket for mounting an electric motor in an engine and bent it so the ends of the casting for the leading truck were held together by the bracket.
Then I soldered the parts together to form the leading truck.
The steam cylinder on the AHM 0-8-0 kit have a third booster cylinder in-between the two outside cylinders ( far left cylinder ).
This booster cylinder is cut off the two steam cylinders that I'm using for the 2-8-8-2 engine.
I use a piece of .015 thick styrene to cover the center part of the cylinders on the front and the back.
Then I spread model putty around the edges to blend them in.
Once the putty has dried, it is sanded down and the two cylinders are painted.