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2-8-8-2 Locomotive


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#1 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 01:40 PM

Building another O-scale model steam locomotive using parts from the AHM / Rivarossi 0-8-0 plastic locomotive kit that was available back in the 70's.

This will have a wheel arrangement of 2-8-8-2 and be modeled similar to this engine.

2-8-8-2_zps4mtb2eai.jpg


The front and rear section was cut off of two of the AHM chassis.
The chassis at the top is what the stock frame looked like from the AHM model kit.

SAM_1032_zpscr8ejhbw.jpg


I glued a piece of white styrene to the back of one of the frames to form a pad for the attaching screw that will hold the two frames together.
Using part of a tender drawbar, I glued it to the front of the other frame for the attaching bar.

SAM_1048_zpsroh4qfrf.jpg


Then I turned a piece of brass down and taped it to take a 2-56 screw to form a shoulder bolt for the attaching screw.

SAM_1051_zpsapolt21p.jpg


This screw fastens the two frames together.

SAM_1049_zpsvfmysinx.jpg


With the two frames attached, this shows how much the front frame will be able to rotate in relation to the rear frame.
A model railroad layout has to have wide radius turns in order for this type of locomotive to run on it.

SAM_1050_zpsw3tvwgtz.jpg


These are flat brass castings to make the leading and trailing truck.

SAM_1042_zpsb9pbqqbr.jpg


The top casting is for the lead truck but is not long enough to just bend into shape so it is cut into two pieces.
The axle holes are already drilled into this casting but they are larger then the axle ends on the wheels from the AHM kit.

I turned a piece of brass down in the lathe and drilled a smaller hole in it to form a bushing for the axle holes.

SAM_1043_zpsa7rkggml.jpg


The bushing is pressed into the casting part on the right.

SAM_1044_zpsisis4aad.jpg


The bottom casting is for the trailing truck and needs to have the holes drilled into it for the axle shaft but it is long enough so it just needs to be bent into shape to form the truck.

I used a brass bracket for mounting an electric motor in an engine and bent it so the ends of the casting for the leading truck were held together by the bracket.
Then I soldered the parts together to form the leading truck.

SAM_1045_zps6dc52imx.jpg

SAM_1046_zpsmi0kyzne.jpg


The steam cylinder on the AHM 0-8-0 kit have a third booster cylinder in-between the two outside cylinders ( far left cylinder ).
This booster cylinder is cut off the two steam cylinders that I'm using for the 2-8-8-2 engine.
 
SAM_1038_zpsqvifnwmz.jpg


I use a piece of .015 thick styrene to cover the center part of the cylinders on the front and the back.
Then I spread model putty around the edges to blend them in.

SAM_1047_zpsdf3u9e2e.jpg


Once the putty has dried, it is sanded down and the two cylinders are painted.

SAM_1052_zpsno6muda1.jpg


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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 03:46 PM

That's a lot of intricate work there, Ray!


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#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 05:23 PM

Wow, you really do have a love for this.
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#4 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 06:27 PM

:dancingbanana:  :dancingbanana:  Another locomotive !

 

Ray , glad you went with posting as you go. Crazy amount of modifications already just to make the trucks work. 


Edited by TomLGT195, January 21, 2016 - 06:27 PM.

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#5 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 06:34 PM

Joint in middle?  So, how does that swivel, but yet the boiler would be one long tube, would think?  You sure can make some small stuff on your lathe, that would be the worst part for me to try to make. I've always wanted to make one of those steam engine casting kits, but those are much simpler and bigger than this type work.  Was going to buy small lathe for that work, but now figure never happen, can't see that well in my old age! 


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#6 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 06:43 PM

Great work!

Thank you for the build thread.

You must really have patients and good eyesight as well as steady hands for this work!


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#7 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 07:38 PM

It isn't that I have good eyesight, I just use a strong set of eyeglasses.


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#8 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 08:17 PM

Great workmanship as always Ray.
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#9 jd.rasentrac OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2016 - 01:39 AM

OMG! Great work, but I prefer to read a book :rolling:


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#10 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 04:49 PM

A block of styrene is fastened between the frame rails at the back of the rear chassis.

SAM_1056_zpsbmqzu4qu.jpg


The trailing truck is attached to the rear of this chassis.

SAM_1057_zpsquqvwoar.jpg


This pilot beam will fit nicely on the front chassis but it is damaged and needs to be repaired first.

SAM_1058_zpsmcbmq84s.jpg


Back when I had all my tools available for working on my model trains, I had a resistance solder machine that was really nice for working with brass.
That solder machine is packed away with a lot of other specialty tools and I'm having to do any un-soldering and soldering with my small soldering gun.

The damaged front panel is removed from the "cow catcher".
You can see that the rear panel for the cow catcher is bent back some and has broken loose from the pilot beam.

SAM_1059_zps5n2bqcck.jpg


The rear panel piece is straightened and re-soldered to the beam.

SAM_1060_zpsdbp1habq.jpg


The support bracket behind the rear panel is missing from the damaged side.

SAM_1061_zpst4pjvkcl.jpg


I cut out a new support bracket and soldered it in place on the damaged side.

SAM_1062_zpsfijkta44.jpg


Then the front panel for the cow catcher was straightened and soldered back in place.
Using a magnifying glass and a very fine ( .015 dia. ) solder makes it easier to complete the job without getting a bunch of solder all over the part.

SAM_1063_zpsnozvlpqx.jpg


Here's how the pilot looks so far.

SAM_1066_zpsxle9jkvj.jpg


It is still missing the foot plates on either side of the cow catcher.
I cut two pieces from a strip of diamond patterned brass and bent one edge at a 90 deg.

SAM_1067_zpsrhthgap9.jpg


Another strip of smooth brass was cut and bent for the support brackets.
These were then soldered to the back side of the foot plates.

SAM_1068_zpsvns6qyvm.jpg


.047 diameter mounting holes are drilled into the underside of the pilot.

SAM_1069_zpshzin3p9m.jpg


These mounting holes are then tapped for a 0-80 thread.

SAM_1070_zpspthdx0d2.jpg


The foot plates are then attached to the underside of the pilot with 0-80 screws.

SAM_1071_zpstv1wyvio.jpg


This is the finished pilot.

SAM_1072_zps0j4nmtpv.jpg


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#11 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 06:23 PM

Excellent work Ray.
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#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 06:49 PM

Wow! Very intricate work there!


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#13 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2016 - 04:15 PM

The front frame for the pilot is cut from a block of styrene.
I drew the shape of the frame on the yellow pad then copied that pattern onto the styrene block.
Here the cuts are all made but the block is still together.

SAM_1073_zpsyxelzuon.jpg


Separating the pieces after the cuts are made leaves the frame section in the center.

SAM_1074_zps76nwnw7q.jpg


The pilot is then attached to the frame with small screws.

SAM_1075_zpsz2wcafiq.jpg


This is then attached to the front chassis.

SAM_1077_zpsefddmbhf.jpg

SAM_1076_zpsz4vs3ni4.jpg


I make up little "shoulder bolts" like this for any pivot points.

SAM_1051_zpsapolt21p.jpg


For the pivot on the leading and trailing truck, the brass part is put thru the hole in the arm of the truck from the top.
Then a washer is put on the screw and it is threaded up thru the brass piece.
This makes it so the pivot bolt is permanently attached to the truck.

SAM_1078_zpsvq8qdr3e.jpg


The leading truck is attached to the front chassis.

SAM_1079_zpsqjundg6v.jpg

SAM_1080_zps7fck4rvo.jpg


The rear chassis hes styrene "I-beams" glued to it to extend the frame and the rear portion of the AHM lower cab is glued to the ends of the I-beams.

SAM_1081_zps3p9evfyh.jpg


With the front and rear extensions added to the chassis units, it makes the total chassis about 19-1/2 inch long.

SAM_1082_zpseb8qjyuy.jpg


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#14 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2016 - 07:29 PM

This locomotive requires a much larger firebox than what is on the AHM 0-8-0 model.
The AHM model has two side panels that make up the firebox so I used four of these parts to build the new firebox.
I cut the front section off two of the parts and cut the rear section off the other two parts.
These modified parts were then glued together to form a longer firebox panel for each side of the locomotive.

The two original parts are at the top of the photo.
The two new firebox sides are in the center.
The sections that were cut off are at the bottom of the photo.

SAM_1084_zpsm05g6ih2.jpg


These new firebox panels were then glued in place under the cab.

SAM_1091_zpsjwkzak9u.jpg

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This unit is than fit onto the rear chassis.

SAM_1095_zpsbndbmeqs.jpg


The smoke box was cut off the front of one of the AHM models.
I wanted to turn this on the lathe to make sure the cut end is square and smooth so I had to get a little creative with mounting it on the chuck.

A rubber band is wrapped around the nose of the smoke box to support the outside while it was gripped from the inside on chuck.
Then I used more rubber bands that wrap around the back of the chuck and pull the piece forward onto the chuck.

SAM_1096_zpsi9kax4v3.jpg


I move the cutting tool very slowly and cut no more than .005 deep at a time.

SAM_1097_zpsye0gaj4b.jpg


The end is now square and smooth.
It is time now to get a piece of PVC drain pipe and start making the rest of the boiler.

SAM_1098_zpswrgxq8pa.jpg


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#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2016 - 07:58 PM

That's gittin' it done! Good thinking!


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