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#1 Chubien ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 11:12 AM

Some of my tractors appear to still have to original wiring which is hard and brittle, I decided it may be time to start planning the re-wiring job.

So those of you who have done this, do you use the same gauge as oem? I believe oem is 16G, should I go to the next size up?

I can buy wiring at tsc, but it's all made in China products, do you guys spend more and get better quality wires made in USA? What about the connectors? Do you use shrink wrap?

I have up to 6 tractors to rewire (all tubeframes) and I don't want to skimp out on hardware only to regret it later on.
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#2 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 11:43 AM

I usually stay with OEM unless there is a reason to go bigger.  Depending if I'm planning out a project and know I need certain gauge wire or amount I will go to one of the bigger towns and get what I need.  But if I'm working and discover I need wire or connectors I will just go to the local auto parts and pick up what I need.


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#3 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 11:54 AM

I usually try and get as close to OEM as possible, The wiring I get comes in 25' Rolls and I always buy a box of connectors which can  do many projects before I need to re order.

I do use the shrink tube stuff when I can as it makes things neater.


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#4 steamer936 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 11:57 AM

Be Wary of Chinese sourced wire. They are notorious for sneaking down the gauge. I used to test incoming electronic parts and they would ship a "claimed" 10Ga wire and when you would actually measure the wire, it would come out 11Ga. Sneaking a strand of copper out of it.

Stick with known wire vendors like Belden. Also make sure your wire insulation is rated for Automotive applications. It is UV protected and will stand up to the Gas and Grease it gets exposed to.

Keep with the original wire sizes, Bolens over engineered in this dept on the earlier tubeframes.

I love to use heat shrink when redoing terminals and splicing.


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#5 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 12:20 PM

Any wiring that I have done has been soldered connections whenever possible and with shrink tubing over it.  I like to put as much of it in wire loom as possible as it makes it look neat. 


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#6 Rainier ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 12:43 PM

I agree with Husky
Working on marine application it is important to make good connections. Using good wire with soldered connections and shrink wrap is what I have found to be the best. You could use crimp connectors without solder and hope the shrink wrap will hold it together. there is a lot of vibrations when these machines are running and it sucks to have to fix things twice!
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#7 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 01:54 PM

[quote name="chubien" post="645134" timestamp="1453392774"]Some of my tractors appear to still have to original wiring which is hard and brittle, I decided it may be time to start planning the re-wiring job.
So those of you who have done this, do you use the same gauge as oem? I believe oem is 16G, should I go to the next size up?
I can buy wiring at tsc, but it's all made in China products, do you guys spend more and get better quality wires made in USA? What about the connectors? Do you use shrink wrap?
I have up to 6 tractors to rewire (all tubeframes) and I don't want to skimp out on hardware only to regret it later on.


I go here , use 14 gauge unless 12 is OEM, they have most colors , the correct insulation, plus almost everything else you'll need, great service, quality products.
http://www.wiringpro...CFQEoHwodF6wD0g
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#8 Chubien ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 04:37 PM

That link is exactly what I was looking for.

I am assuming 16Ga is original wiring except for the bigger starter wire. Or is it 14Ga?

I should be able to order everything I need from there, would like to make it as neat as possible with shrink wrap, loom, etc...

I seem to have a combination of spade and ring terminals but I suspect ring terminals were probably used throughout?

#9 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 04:37 PM

I agree with the other guys - get the best wire and terminals you can get-I always crimp- solder- shrink. But I go one step further and take off the insulator on the terminal you don't need it with shrink tubing and in looks bulky to me. Also I don't like lead free solder I like the old 60 - 40 rosin core solder. Call me old fashion but the old lead/tin solder hasn't killed me in fifty years so I 'am not worried about it now.

 

And don't forget to put the shrink tubing on first----No one has EVER done that except me :wallbanging:   


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#10 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 05:45 PM

If your going to use crimp connectors make sure you have a good crimping tool.  Most of those thin ones are junk to start with and twist when you put some pressure on the handles.  Most electrical supply places will have the good crimping pliers on hand.  A good pair will have a contact surface a good 1/8" wide or wider.  Cheep ones are about 1/16".  Make sure you have the connector in the tool right also.


Edited by chieffan, January 21, 2016 - 05:47 PM.

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#11 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 06:10 PM

If your going to use crimp connectors make sure you have a good crimping tool.  Most of those thin ones are junk to start with and twist when you put some pressure on the handles.  Most electrical supply places will have the good crimping pliers on hand.  A good pair will have a contact surface a good 1/8" wide or wider.  Cheep ones are about 1/16".  Make sure you have the connector in the tool right also.

Besides having a good crimper --I was taught to put the dimple opposite of the split of the terminal if there is a split .


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#12 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 06:32 PM

I use OEM sizes and colors.

I buy the actual (correct) connectors and I bought the $35 crimper.

I use the shrink tubing where needed.

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#13 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 06:46 PM

That electric depot place looks like has neat items. Plastic term ends and the special click-in tabs for them are great!  I'll have to look into that sometime. ON old cars if you could get the whole wire loom out and on a bench, you could unwrap the tape or plastic or cut open and take one wire at time to make copies of and lay out on another table till all were made and then wire tie and re-wrap or use that flex loom to hold it together again as a harness. Sometimes hard to get the whole thing out of these tractors tho and have to put much back in a wire at time right in the chassis as you go. Many times I use loops and holders on frame in more spots than company did, just because!


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#14 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 09:21 PM

I've always been a solder and heat shrink guy. I've rewired quite a few trailers, tractors and the odd car. Usually on older stuff you'll find that crimped connectors have corroded to the point of uselessness. If I have to use a spade lug connector or ring connector I solder them on, and heat shrink over top

I do have a couple of Panduit controlled cycle crimp tools, but I never use them for automotive or tractor work. Also make sure the connectors you are using are rated for the amperage required.

Edited by Chopperhed, January 21, 2016 - 09:32 PM.

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