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New Cub Cadet 149: The tear-down begins!

cub cadet 149 14 hp kohler fel danco

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#91 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 03:13 AM

I took the K301 out of the 129 tonight ( the tunnel cover has the correct flap for pressing on the release valves).  I was expecting some parts sitting in the bottom of the oil pan.  Nothing but oil.  I looked in side and didn't see any problems.  I tried turning the engine and it would stop near the top of the stroke.  Still I saw nothing wrong in the bottom end.  I finally decided to gently sand off the small rust ring near the top of the cylinder.  As so as I did that the engine turned nice and smooth.  I took the piston out and the only issue that I saw were the ring had rusted a little.  I took the rings off and put the piston back in the cylinder to feel if there was any play.  It had very little movement.  I was totally amazed that this engine seemed to be in great shape.  Next, I took off the valve cover and removed the valves.  The guides felt like they were in great shape.  The face of the valve and seat looked a little dirty but also in great shape.  It appears that this engine had been rebuilt not the long ago.  I'm going to remove the flywheel tomorrow.  If everything looks good I'm going to hone the cylinder wall.  Install new rings and lap the valves. Rebuild the carb. and put the engine back together.  I'll install it into the 149 and run it for a while until I can save up enough money to rebuild the K321 with the correct crankshaft.  That will leave me some money to replace the seals in the FEL cylinders and some of the hydraulic hoses.

 

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#92 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 03:23 AM

I hit the post button by accident so here are the rest of the pictures that I wanted to aid to my previous post.

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This 129 that I bought is really going to same me a lot of money. 


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#93 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 03:52 AM

Glad the engine looks good.


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#94 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 08:15 AM

Good for you Mark! I would say most of us used parts tractor's for just that...parts! And sell parts we already had to help fund the project(s). After removing your tunnel cover you found you can use it, wonder what condition the drive line is in OR did you notice if the safety flap remains for the safety switch? Items like that as you now know add up in saving $ !.
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#95 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 08:15 PM

I was looking at the piston to see if it was STD. or .010.  I didn't see anything on the top of it indicating its size.  The only thing that was different on the piston was a small hole like indentation in the center.  I looked at pistons online but none of them had that indentation.  Most people on the forums stated that if the piston had nothing written on it then it was a standard piston.  I'm going to hone the cylinder and measure the piston, cylinder wall, and the connecting rod journal tonight after dinner.



#96 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2016 - 08:17 PM

Good for you Mark! I would say most of us used parts tractor's for just that...parts! And sell parts we already had to help fund the project(s). After removing your tunnel cover you found you can use it, wonder what condition the drive line is in OR did you notice if the safety flap remains for the safety switch? Items like that as you now know add up in saving $ !.

 

I'll look for that safety flap for that safety switch tonight.  I can't wait to switch over the parts from the 129 to the 149. 



#97 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 02:10 AM

I started working on the K301 engine tonight.  The first thing I did was take out the balancing gears.  This is highly recommended if you don't want a window in your block.  The bottom gear was easy to take out.  The upper gear was a little more challenging.  I didn't want to remove the crankshaft so I did what a lot of people do and broke the gear using a hammer and chisel.  A couple good hits and it broke into pieces. 

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Make sure you use a magnet to get every piece of metal out of the block.

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Next, I worked on the cylinder wall.  I honed the wall down to clean it up from the rust and so it has a good cross hatch for the new rings that I have ordered.  I didn't get all of the rust pitting out of the wall but I decided that it was ok because this was just a temporary replacement for this tractor (after all I bought this tractor thinking that the engine was a boat anchor). Next I cleaned the valves and lapped them to make sure I had a good seal with the block.  I forgot to take pictures of these two thing.  I measured the piston and it's a STD piston within specifications for use.  I'm not so sure now that they rebuild this motor in the past.  Maybe it just has low hours or has been replaced.

I followed that up with removing the one piece fenders on the 129 so I could remove the hitch.  The truck like sleeve hitch looks like a very well made piece.  I don't know if this homemade or after market. 

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The angled gearbox came out next.  That felt like it was in working shape.  Now all I need is a tiller attachment to go with it (That's on my wish list.)

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I then proceeded to remove the rear tires.  When I took off the rear tires I noticed that they have a lot of large cracks so I don't think I will be able to use them. We will see.

I then took off the sleeve hitch.

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The last thing that I took off tonight was the rear brakes.  My pads are down to metal on the 149 so I was hoping to find pads that were in great shape.  I did, but they're different then the 149.  Hopefully I can swap out the calipers and they will work fine. 

Do the 129 and the 149 have different brakes or was that a production year change?

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By the end of the night the 129 was look liking like it had lost a lot of weight. 

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I still want to remove the steering column and all the steering linkages to replace my worn out parts on the 149.  There won't be much remain by the time I strip the 129 down.


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#98 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 07:57 AM

Mark, about the brakes: I have ran across the same situation but do not remember year changes. From what I understand there were/are two vendors, H H Products and Ausco. The set up on your 129 is HH and Ausco on your 149...Ausco used two styles of calipers but the pads are the same like the oval set on the right of the pic you posted. So it appears you will have to change out the calipers.

Part # IH-528822-R91 is the H H Product's design...
Part #'s IH-57953-C91 LH
IH-60753-C91 RH...is Ausco design

Obviously H H Products you can use either one for either side L & R

Hope this helps on your brakes!

Edited by BNK, February 13, 2016 - 07:59 AM.

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#99 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 12:56 PM

Thanks Kevin!

 

It looks like they use the same caliper mounting plate and rods.  The H H system on the 129 looks like it has more braking ability with the size and shape of the pad following the shape of the rotor.  They wanted $35 for each pad on eBay for the Ausco type that was on the 149.  That saved me a $140.  The  H H pads look to have lots of use still in them.


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#100 olds45512 ONLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 01:21 PM

Most people buy brake relining material from McMaster carr and glue it on with epoxy, that's how I did the ones on my 108 and it worked great. To bad you so far away as I have 2 tillers but no gearbox's.
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#101 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 02:42 PM

Most people buy brake relining material from McMaster carr and glue it on with epoxy, that's how I did the ones on my 108 and it worked great. To bad you so far away as I have 2 tillers but no gearbox's.

I drove from Washington State to PA once before. It's only about 2500 miles=8 tanks of diesel=$400= 8 days of travel time=sore butt=divorce :D .  Yea, that's too far to travel for even me.  I used to live in Johnstown PA for about 4 months back in 1998.  My wife was a traveling physical therapist back then.  We were in Pennsylvania for about 6 months total.  Lots of history in PA.

I found a "like new" snow blower for $100 about 120 miles north of here but I have no use for it.  We hardly get any snow because we are a desert/grassland like environment here.


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#102 olds45512 ONLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 02:46 PM

I drove from Washington State to PA once before. It's only about 2500 miles=8 tanks of diesel=$400= 8 days of travel time=sore butt=divorce :D .  Yea, that's too far to travel for even me.  I used to live in Johnstown PA for about 4 months back in 1998.  My wife was a traveling physical therapist back then.  We were in Pennsylvania for about 6 months total.  Lots of history in PA.
I found a "like new" snow blower for $100 about 120 miles north of here but I have no use for it.  We hardly get any snow because we are a desert/grassland like environment here.

I'm from Indiana which is about 30 minutes from Johnstown.
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#103 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 02:52 PM

I probably drove through Indiana because we always went for drives to see the country.


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#104 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2016 - 05:58 PM

I removed the steering column and linkage off the 129.  I had to use the engine hoist to pull up around and steering wheel spokes while I used a hammer and brass driver to separate the wheel from the column.  I had so much upward lift that the tractor was off the ground.  Some of the tie rods are in good shape but I will still have to replace some that are completely worn out.  The steering gear box feels like it's dried out and I don't think anybody has used the grease zerk on it at all. 

Questions:

Are there any issue or upgrades with the Ross style of columns? 

Are the factory tie rods the best?



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Posted February 13, 2016 - 06:45 PM

I had a manual for the rebuild of these Ross steering boxes, but I can't find it!


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