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New Cub Cadet 149: The tear-down begins!

cub cadet 149 14 hp kohler fel danco

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#61 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 04:37 PM

I have used this guy before on Cub parts and I'm happy with the service there.

yeah I got my last batch of CC stuff there, took a while to get that one last piece from him, but 1/2 the price on that particular part of anyone else that I found with it.... he said that it was back ordered, everything else I've gotten has been shipped right away.


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#62 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 05:14 PM

yeah I got my last batch of CC stuff there, took a while to get that one last piece from him, but 1/2 the price on that particular part of anyone else that I found with it.... he said that it was back ordered, everything else I've gotten has been shipped right away.

I have dealt with Chris in the past and I once sold him a tractor as well.  He's a good guy to deal with.


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#63 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 07:32 PM

Chris, Ray Weaver, Rich Patton OK in my book too. If you are looking for NOS in IH boxes or a hard to find and or rare item. Marlin @ IHCCW. My wind breaker cab and a Mott mower came from him? Had to dig deep $ but he had them.
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#64 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 08:08 PM

Chris, Ray Weaver, Rich Patton OK in my book too. If you are looking for NOS in IH boxes or a hard to find and or rare item. Marlin @ IHCCW. My wind breaker cab and a Mott mower came from him? Had to dig deep $ but he had them.

YUPPERS!! I deal pretty much exclusively with those 3 guys.  Some common parts come from my Cub dealer.


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#65 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 08:51 PM

When I was looking for the parts for my pto (I was using the "guy")I noticed that my pto button did not look like the new one that they showed. The reason why was because my button was worn past the clutch finger retain lip.
20160206_165009.jpg
The other thing that I noticed was that the pto pressure spring that I have is different than the one in the pto kit. I have the A type pto but the kit looks like the B type pressure spring (based on a diagram posted by Kenny of Kevin). Will those interchange?


The weather was good to today so I moved the tractor outside and pressure washed the whole frame and transaxle. It sure looks a lot better!
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#66 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 10:36 PM

Looks like you are making good progress.  I would say you need the new leaf springs, 3 new arms, a new button for the arms, a new disc, and a new bearing.

 

While you are ordering parts for that PTO I would order a new fiber button for the disengagement arm.  And I would order a new arm as well.  With the bolt in that hole that was there it is possible that the hole is messed up and a new button may break on installation.  They do NOT take kindly to being forced or installed incorrectly.  (Ask me how I know)  LOL!!!!!  That only matters if you use a fiber button again.  I know Kevin mentioned about using a brass button but I like to make sure that the wear surface is the button and not the clutch.  I know the brass is softer than the steel button on the clutch side but I figure every advantage I can get is worth it.  Besides when it is all in working order they last a long time.


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#67 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 06:52 AM

I can only guess what it's like working on your machine with the FEL in your way, especially pulling your fender pan. Sure looks a lot cleaner now! The PTO buttons I mentioned earlier in this thread were made of bronze BUT go with the fiber if you can. My son made me a few back in the day out of bronze for several tractor's I had that were very worn and needing replaced.

I'm wondering what that brkt is/was used for on the front of your frame? Weights? Bucket stop?
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#68 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 12:14 AM

I can only guess what it's like working on your machine with the FEL in your way, especially pulling your fender pan. Sure looks a lot cleaner now! The PTO buttons I mentioned earlier in this thread were made of bronze BUT go with the fiber if you can. My son made me a few back in the day out of bronze for several tractor's I had that were very worn and needing replaced.

I'm wondering what that brkt is/was used for on the front of your frame? Weights? Bucket stop?


Here's a picture of that bracket. It looks like it might be for a front blade.
20160207_125945.jpg

Does anybody know what type of metal that surrounds the headlights? You can see from the picture that is has several cracks. I think that it cast aluminum. I was going to have the local vocational school weld it up for me. They've done some great work for me in the past.
20160207_130653.jpg

#69 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 03:47 PM

Mark that brkt could have been for  whatever but it's not O.E.M. And yes the casting is aluminum, a good student with TIG knowledge and technique should do you fine. I have good results myself. Do you still have the other inner head light ring for the right bezel ?


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#70 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 04:04 PM

I am Not sure if I have the headlight bezel. I will check for that when I get home

#71 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 07:55 PM

From one of the front pics you posted you have both front bezels and two complete cracks too. Tell ya what I did that had two cracks. After cleaning and prepping the areas for repair I re-installed the nose piece back on the hood. Clamped the cracked areas and then tack weld real good, just to insure alignment. Here is the outcome of the nose after. The upside down "IH" logo that is on the left side of your grille casting, it should have been used on the composite grille. OEM would have been made of tin, the replacement decal would/should have been applied on the original tin...if it remained.    

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#72 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2016 - 12:15 AM

Good idea to use the hood as a type of jig to hold the pieces aligned. I'll use that idea when I have the students weld mine.
No surpise that the decal is in the wrong spot. I've noticed that my grill is melted on the backside from the muffler. The repairs and parts list just keep increasing. I should have a new tractor when I'm done. :smilewink:



#73 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2016 - 12:16 AM

What color should the grill be on the 149?

#74 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2016 - 07:30 AM

What color should the grill be on the 149?

Black is the composite color originally, no paint, just like the one I posted.

If I remember you are missing two tail light lenses. You may luck out and find them on line OR at your local RV dealership. They should be red in color, 2X4"... Petersen or Bargman...OEM would have been made by Reflect O Lite. If the bases are good then all you need is the lenses.

I have a set of Bargman 378 ( base & lense ) with standard bulbs on my 1250. A set of Petersen or PM on my 149, they have the T- plug in style bulbs. All you have to do is drill a small hole in the base for the lead. The T style bulb I replaced with LED strobe's.

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Edited by BNK, February 09, 2016 - 07:38 AM.

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#75 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2016 - 04:09 PM

Would a crankshaft from a John Deere 314 K321 work in my in my Cub K321.  Here is the link on ebay. 

http://www.ebay.com/...e197b48918&cp=1

 

My understand is that they both have the same measurements except the JD K321 output shaft is longer.  The one at ebay has a 1" output shaft but is 3 15/32" long.  I figured I would just cut off the extra length.  Tell me were I am wrong.

Thanks for any help you can give.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: cub, cadet, 149, 14 hp kohler, fel, danco

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