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New Cub Cadet 149: The tear-down begins!

cub cadet 149 14 hp kohler fel danco

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#46 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2016 - 02:16 PM

I took a few pics of the heat shield for you. First pic is a 14 Kohler, second pic is on a 10 hp Kohler...make sure you get the correct one to fit your 14 hp, cut out for the spark plug. Last pic shows the grille spring clip mounting, you need 2 .

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Edited by BNK, February 02, 2016 - 02:17 PM.

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#47 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2016 - 04:53 PM

 

After that I started to remove the rear fender/seat/footrest body panel.  I was doing good until I broke two impact flat blades trying to get the black footrest retaining screws loose.  I also stripped two of the heads off so I'll have to figure out someway of getting the remain screws out.  

If you can drill them panhead bolts out you can get new ones from Mcmaster Carr if you don't have a place locally to get them.  


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#48 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2016 - 07:49 PM

Kevin,

 

  Thanks for the pictures of the muffler shield/bracket and the grill springs.  That makes more sense on how the 10 hp. and 14 hp. are different.  I could always trim the 10 hp. one to make it fit if I can find one for a 14 hp.  I haven't had any luck yet in finding one. 

 

I won't be working much on the driveline until I get the motor finished.

 

 

 


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#49 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2016 - 07:55 PM

If you can drill them panhead bolts out you can get new ones from Mcmaster Carr if you don't have a place locally to get them.  

 

 

Thanks for the information on where to get the screws.  I was also looking at using McMaster Carr for new brake pad lining.  They want way to much money for new brake pads.


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#50 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2016 - 12:08 AM

What I do for those floor board bolts that won't come out is grind the rust off and weld a old drive shaft to the bolt and then turn em' out. Works great, but not my idea, it was 500 passwords...


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#51 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2016 - 06:38 PM

That's simple to do! 

Thanks for the suggestion!



#52 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2016 - 06:54 PM

Just got back from the machine shop today.  I was hope that I would only have to have the block bored out to .010 from the stock size but that's not going to happen.  The machinist said it would take .020 to make the cylinder clean up.  Bummer!  I never like to take more metal out of a block then I have to.  Good news was that somebody had already put harden seats for the valves so that doesn't have to be done.  He said it would cost about a $100 to do.  That's a lot cheaper than a new block.  The crank also has to be turned down by about .020 but a least it's salvageable.  That will be about another $100 as well. 



#53 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 02:56 AM

Removed the fender/running boards tonight.  I had of a couple of the heads on the pan-head bolts on the diamond plate footrest get stripped.  Someone suggested I weld a bolt to the top of each head and use that bolt  to remove the pan-head bolts.  It worked perfect!  I was able to remove the bolts in about 30 minutes. 

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Once I had the bolts removed, the running boards fought with me for quite a while.  The FEL gave me very little room to move and the side hydraulic lift and brake pedal kept on interfering with me being able to pull it out.  Eventually I was able to get it off but I don't know if I can remember how to put it back on when the time comes to reassembly.

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Once the sheet metal was gone, I got a good look at the transaxle assembly.  It was really caked with dirt and grease.  I'm going to have to pressure wash it to get it really clean.

 

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I also started sanding the paint off the engine cooling shroud.  It looks like it was repainted once because the top coat color is different from the bottom color.  The fender sheet metal is also a different color thanks to the previous own.  I think I'm going to sand blast the metal to make sure that I have a good surface to apply my paint to.

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I do have a couple of question for the experts.  What holds the button on the front pto to the pto?   When I was dissembling the motor my button fell off and I don't see how it stays attached.  I looks like a small clip might hold it on.

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My other question is what is this wire connection, which has been jumpered with a piece of wire, suppose to go?  This is hanging next to the hydraulic lift.  I thought it might got to one of the safety switches.

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#54 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 07:10 AM

Yea your gonna need to get into your manual for the PTO to maybe understand the mechanics better...if I remember the groove on the steel button fits into them 3 pressure plates which are very much worn. Yes you are correct about the harness with the jumper...it plugs into the back of the safety switch with the rubber plunger. Appears the metal tab to engage the switch is gone, so they bypassed the switch to start it.
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#55 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 08:05 AM

Here's the breakdown for the PTO's used. Most likely, yours is the Type B.
 
MechPTOTypeB.jpg
MechPTOPartsListB.jpg

 

On the jumpered wire, there is a switch in your pic right next to it. Bet that switch is bad.


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#56 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 12:26 PM

Thanks for the information Kenny and Kevin.

 

Sounds like I should take the pto apart and see what the inside looks like. 


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#57 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 01:37 PM

Thanks for the information Kenny and Kevin.
 
Sounds like I should take the pto apart and see what the inside looks like.


Kenny is "Johnny on the spot"... He and all of the other moderator's on this very friendly site are prompt to help out any time... We on the other hand as members,supporter's and contributor's do what we can to help out when we can.

So we hope in the future you can share your feedback with others that may be in need such as a project you are in with your FEL/149...
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#58 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 03:11 PM

I took apart the pto and I have a type A.  When I compared it to the diagram that Kenny posted I notice that mine has two fibrous clutch discs.  The diagram only shows one.  Is this correct or did somebody put an extra disc in it? 

The discs are pretty worn out.  They both have a grove on the outside face. 

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You can see both discs in the third picture.  The springs are also very rusty.


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#59 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 03:19 PM

I took apart the pto and I have a type A.  When I compared it to the diagram that Kenny posted I notice that mine has two fibrous clutch discs.  The diagram only shows one.  Is this correct or did somebody put an extra disc in it? 

The discs are pretty worn out.  They both have a grove on the outside face. 

attachicon.gif20160206_114748.jpgattachicon.gif20160206_114900.jpgattachicon.gif20160206_115037.jpgattachicon.gif20160206_115557.jpgattachicon.gif20160206_115605.jpg

 

You can see both discs in the third picture.  The springs are also very rusty.

Extra disk, they should only have one in them.  With two it would need an intermediate spacer between them.  I like to take them apart and figure 8 them on a piece of sandpaper on my work bench to get them true so when I reassemble them they have a flat surface to grip properly.


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#60 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2016 - 04:06 PM

I have used this guy before on Cub parts and I'm happy with the service there.


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