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New Cub Cadet 149: The tear-down begins!

cub cadet 149 14 hp kohler fel danco

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#31 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 12:09 AM

I have to say that looks like a lot of work for the end result but it looks like it would be reliable.  When I did my 107 over last spring I upgraded my driveline as well as those couplers with the pin drive are a problem.  I use my tractor for moldboard plowing, mowing. and snowblowing as well as other stuff.  I put in a new driveshaft and coupler on the front side as well as a new rag joint about 4 years ago.  When I redid it last year the coupler and the pin were already SHOT!  Since it is stored in a shed that is cold over the winter where it is used the oil in the transmission is cold and makes it hard to start.  I wanted a way to overcome this and to solve my driveline problems.  To do both I put a clutch in it from a gear drive tractor.  When I push the clutch/brake pedal it disengages the clutch and also returns the hydro lever to neutral at the same time.  This got rid of the front coupler problem and as I have not had any real issues with the rag joint I left that at the rear.  So far it works great.


I read your post several times to understand and get a picture in my mind...and I think I got it. So you have a 3 pin driver w/clutch and hanger to disengage the drive shaft that goes to the pump...to cold start your engine. And a good fix to your drive line. That is a new one to me. There was a Cubnut in east TN that had a 1806 CC, manual shift, yet it had hyd lift AND power steering. It was a engineering work of art. Once he removed the tunnel cover and you got to see how he did it, it looked beautiful!
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#32 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 02:17 AM

I finished tearing down the motor tonight.  I'm glad that I decided to tear it down completely.  I found that the connecting rod has a lot of slop in it around the crank.  This is probably the sound that I kept hearing when the engine ran at higher rpms. 

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The cylinder wall is scored up and so is the side of the piston. 

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The piston said "STD" on the top so at least it hasn't been bored out yet. 

I haven't measured the bore or crank yet.  I'll have to do that tomorrow and start the clean-up process.  The cam and the tappets look to be in good shape so I don't think I will have to replace them.  The governor retaining bolt/bushing is completely worn out which is why it was leaking oil from the shaft onto the points. 

Oh!  Take a look at this gremlin that I found in the motor!

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My son what a lot of help tonight.  I would still be working on it if it wasn't for him.  He was especially helpful in pulling of the front pto pulley off.  I knew about all of the double set screws in the clutch housing but that pulley just didn't want to come off the last 1/2 inch.  I even tried heating up the thick part of the pulley which helped a little bit.  Eventually we got it off.  I had to rent a puller from AutoZone , after bending the my own puller, to finally get the flywheel off.  It made a very loud popping sound when it released.  I thought that I had broken it. 

If you have any helpful hints about the rebuild of the K321 please let me know. 


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#33 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 05:52 AM

Glad you found this now! Haven't had one of those gremlins show up in one of my engines yet.


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#34 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 09:40 AM

Don't know what kind of puller you used on the flywheel but I hope you didn't pull on the outside of the flywheel they are prone to cracking when pulled that way. The other small engine companies all warn abot that in their manuals. I think Kohler might also. Cast iron doesn't take well to a twisting type of force.
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#35 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 01:06 PM

I used a harmonic balance puller.  I will double check for any cracks just to be safe.



#36 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 01:50 PM

You should be alright with that because pulling like that concentrates the force close to the hub. A 3 jaw would pull from the edges kinda "peels" from the bottom of the flywheel. And twists. (even though it can't be seen) Cast metal doesn't like pressure.

Edited by dodge trucker, January 23, 2016 - 01:51 PM.

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#37 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2016 - 11:56 PM

I've finished measuring the bore and the crankshaft.

The bore measures 3.500 and at 90 degrees from that measurement it measures 3.499.  According to the Kohler manual,  3.503 is the maximum wear before you need a larger piston.  By the time you hone it out you'll be past specs. so it looks like it will have to be bored out .10. 

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The connecting rod journal on the crank measures 1.498 and 90 degrees from that measurement it measures 1.492 so we're out of round by about .006.  Max out of round is .005 and max. wear is 1.498 so it looks like a I will have to have the crank turned under by .10. 

20160123_190319.jpg

These aren't to bad of a number considering it has 43 years of use.  The previous own said that the engine  had been rebuilt before he had bought it but doesn't know how long ago that was.  The valve guides feel very good.  No play at all.  It looks like the valve seats have been replaced. 

20160123_190251.jpg

There is very little carbon build up anywhere in the engine to it shouldn't take a lot to clean-up.  Now I need to find a good machine shop to get the work done.  I hope it doesn't cost much.

 

 


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#38 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2016 - 08:39 PM

I'm sorry you had to pull the engine and break it down shortly after your purchase. And maybe explaining to your wife the bad news
but you my friend seem to have taken a positive attitude. Most importantly you have included your son and give him credit on some of the
break down. He is old enough that he may never forget...priceless

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#39 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2016 - 12:29 PM

I read your post several times to understand and get a picture in my mind...and I think I got it. So you have a 3 pin driver w/clutch and hanger to disengage the drive shaft that goes to the pump...to cold start your engine. And a good fix to your drive line. That is a new one to me. There was a Cubnut in east TN that had a 1806 CC, manual shift, yet it had hyd lift AND power steering. It was a engineering work of art. Once he removed the tunnel cover and you got to see how he did it, it looked beautiful!

You go it, a three pin driver and I made up a new driveshaft.  The only other modification was to drill a new hole in the clutch shaft and put an arm on it from a narrow frame tractor.  I have a friend that has done the same thing, in fact I modeled mine after his on his 123.  

 

Sorry it took a while to respond, it's been a busy weekend.


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#40 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2016 - 12:17 AM

I got some part in tonight for my driveline upgrade.  These parts will be part of a new u-joint that will installed at the transmission end of the driveshaft.  The old drive shaft will be flipped end to end with the new rag joint connected at the engine output sprocket.  I'll post pictures as I go to show you what I'm doing.  The old drive was off center when it spun causing a lot of vibration and excessive wear on the retaining pins and coupler.  The yokes and joint cost about $70 to buy.  The modification came from a guy by the name of Dave Kamp.  You can find his pdf instructions on-line if you're interested in what the end product will look like.  One of the added benefit, besides increased strength, will be ease of replacing the drive-line fan. 

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I was able to get a drive-line fan, rag joint, and front grill retaining springs from the local Cub Cadet dealer.  They were surprised that they could still get these parts from the manufacture.  The prices were also fairly reasonable.

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I was also able to find a machine shop that works on small engines.  It will cost about $80 to get the engine bored and honed.  The machinist also recommended that I look for a good used crank to polish instead of turning the old crank because of cost.  I looked and found a very good used crank and connected rod at standard dimensions for about $100 so I've decided to go that direction.  I'll keep the old crank just in case. 


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#41 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2016 - 10:55 PM

Decided to work on the 149 today while I wait for the machine shop to get done with my engine.  I decide to see what was inside the Danco weight box.  It was quite the archeological dig.  At the top I found lots of galvanized pipe fittings followed by dirt and nails.  Below the nails I started to find lead ingots and lead fishing weights.

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When I got to the bottom I found a piece of plywood that was all rotted out and covering a lot of rust.  I removed two large bolts near the top outside and then I had to try getting out the one bolt that was attached at the bottom of the box.  I put a large breaker bar on the last bolt and it was so rusty that it snapped off on the first try.  Here are some pictures showing the structure that retained the box onto the tractor.  There is going to be a lot of clean-up of rust and holes before I will put the box back on but a least I know what is in it. 

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Found a broken weld on the top bracket. 

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This is a tray for tools that sits inside the box.

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I was looking on craigslist the other day and found two IH tractor weights.  He wanted $80 dollars for two but I offered him on $60 and he took it.  Instead of all of the pipe and lead I'm going to put these weights in the box instead. 


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#42 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2016 - 05:39 AM

Wow! Lots of goodies in there! I'm going to attempt making some lead suitcase weights before long.


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#43 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2016 - 04:51 PM

WOW!! You bought one suitcase weight and got the other for free!


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#44 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2016 - 10:22 PM

I took off the rear tires tonight to look at the break pads.  I noticed before I took out the engine that the tractor would continue to move even if I had the break pedal all the way down.  It's a good thing that I did because the left side pads are worn all the way down.  The right wasn't much better.

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left side                                            right side

You can also see that the FEL is attached to the rear axel house tubes with the tires out of the way.

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After that I started to remove the rear fender/seat/footrest body panel.  I was doing good until I broke two impact flat blades trying to get the black footrest retaining screws loose.  I also stripped two of the heads off so I'll have to figure out someway of getting the remain screws out.  When I removed the voltage regulator from under the seat, I noticed how corroded the connections were.  I took off all of the spade connectors and gave everything a good cleaning.  I also took off the cover to see what the inside looked like.

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#45 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2016 - 08:15 AM

Nice work going on Mark! Glad your local Cub dealer is helping out on your OEM part search. You got my attention on your drive line build especially! Thanks for the update...
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