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New Cub Cadet 149: The tear-down begins!

cub cadet 149 14 hp kohler fel danco

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#211 nitro ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2016 - 09:16 AM

Did you drill the cracks?  In heavy duty applications, the best way to repair cracked steel is to drill a hole at the end of the crack to stress relieve it and then weld it.  the end of the crack that you can see is not the end of the crack.  In my experience if this is not done it will crack again.


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#212 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2016 - 11:13 AM

I have used two sets of the dual wheel kits from Miller Tire (millertire.com), they seemed to function fine for me but a little tricky if you want to add weights. Kits are under $50 less shipping.

Thanks for the information!

Those are some sweet looking tractors! 

What are the red metal brackets for on the first tractor?



#213 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2016 - 11:16 AM

Did you drill the cracks?  In heavy duty applications, the best way to repair cracked steel is to drill a hole at the end of the crack to stress relieve it and then weld it.  the end of the crack that you can see is not the end of the crack.  In my experience if this is not done it will crack again.

No!  I forgot that your suppose to drill the ends of a crack!

What can I do now that I've already welded it?



#214 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2016 - 01:22 PM

Thanks for the information!

Those are some sweet looking tractors! 

What are the red metal brackets for on the first tractor?

The red under the footrests is counterweights for the Haban sickle bar thats mounted on it.


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#215 nitro ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2016 - 01:22 PM

Personally, I would drill the end of the weld, hoping to remember which way the crack was headed, then reweld the hole.  Depending on your duty cycle it might last a long time either way.  If it is mainly for show you might not worry about it.


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#216 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2016 - 07:46 PM

I sprayed on the first coat of IH Yellow!

20160314_173731.jpg 20160314_173725.jpg 20160314_173714.jpg 20160314_173652.jpg


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#217 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 12:05 AM

I started taking apart the dash tonight while I let the paint dry.  When I removed the top fiberglass part of the dash I found a date code stamp of March 8, 1973 on the backside.  That makes this tractor officially 43 years and 6 days old as of today.  I missed her birthday and didn't even know it! 

20160314_205924.jpg

I also tried removing some old paint stains from the black aluminum dash cover.  I used acetone and gently rubbed until the stain was gone.  I was also able to remove years of grease and grime from the other areas.

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There was still black paint under neither the paint stains so the stain has been there for a long time. It's not new but it does look better than before.

I also tried to remove the hydraulic lift valve assemble but I could not figure out how to remove the link that connects the linkage to the valve.  Does anybody know how to remove this?

20160314_214412.jpg


Edited by Mark 149 J., March 15, 2016 - 02:13 PM.

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#218 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 02:30 PM

 

I also tried to remove the hydraulic lift valve assemble but I could not figure out how to remove the link that connects the linkage to the valve.  Does anybody know how to remove this?

attachicon.gif20160314_214412.jpg

From your picture I would say it is the same as a master link in a roller chain.  The thin piece of steel should be split in the end that is in the top of the picture.  Pry the two ends up over the pin and then slide it down the slot in the piece of steel to disengage it in the pin on the other end.


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#219 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 02:34 PM

For your dash panel with a little patience and some painters tape you can mask off the areas that shouldn't be painted and spray the center of it black and it will look like new almost.  I redid the one on my 107 like this with good success.    

 

You're making good progress, keep it up. :thumbs:


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#220 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 03:17 PM

From your picture I would say it is the same as a master link in a roller chain.  The thin piece of steel should be split in the end that is in the top of the picture.  Pry the two ends up over the pin and then slide it down the slot in the piece of steel to disengage it in the pin on the other end.

I'll give that a try again tonight and see if that works.



#221 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 03:19 PM

For your dash panel with a little patience and some painters tape you can mask off the areas that shouldn't be painted and spray the center of it black and it will look like new almost.  I redid the one on my 107 like this with good success.    

 

You're making good progress, keep it up. :thumbs:

Thanks for the idea!

Did you use gloss or flat black?


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#222 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 03:54 PM

Thanks for the idea!

Did you use gloss or flat black?

Ummmmmmmmmm..........................  I think it was gloss.  I keep the tractor at our farm so it would be a few days before I can go look.


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#223 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2016 - 06:14 PM

I sprayed the second coat of paint on the tractor after work.  I'm thinking of putting on a total of 3 or 4 coats of paint.

20160315_155747.jpg

While the paint was drying I was able to remove the link from the hydraulic control on the side of the dash.  The top retaining clip was rusted together which is why I couldn't see that it was split.  Thanks IHCubGuy for that useful bit of information about the retaining clip for the link!  The link is rusted to the control valve hole so I've sprayed it down with PB and hopefully it will work lost tomorrow.

20160314_214412.jpg 20160315_155732.jpg 20160315_155738.jpg


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#224 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2016 - 07:25 PM

Sprayed the 3rd coat today.  I think I'm going to apply one more coat.

20160316_171309.jpg


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#225 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2016 - 07:54 PM

Going for more weight then?


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