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New Cub Cadet 149: The tear-down begins!

cub cadet 149 14 hp kohler fel danco

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#151 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 02:53 PM

I got what you say now.  Thanks


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#152 olds45512 ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 05:58 PM

In order to use a bolt for the front axle pivot you will need to grind the head on the bolt down until the head is only about an 1/8" thick, if you don't it will hit the low hanging oil pan. The bolt has to be installed from back to front.

Edited by olds45512, February 21, 2016 - 05:59 PM.

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#153 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 01:46 AM

Worked on the head tonight.  I wanted to make sure it was nice and flat.  I placed a 3/8 thick piece of glass on a steel bench that was fairly flat.  I started with 150 grit sand paper and a little bit of water.  Here it what is looked like after about 10 circular motions.  You can see how uneven the surface was.

20160221_204410.jpg 20160221_204222.jpg

I would do about 20 motions clockwise and switch 20 to the counter clockwise. 

I eventually switched to 300 grit and then finally 400 grit to finish it off.  It only took about 35 minutes of work to get the finished product.  I took pictures to show the progression.

20160221_205043.jpg 20160221_210311.jpg 20160221_211818.jpg

 

 

I also adjusted the tappets tonight.  I set the intake for .010 and the exhaust at .018.  I do have one question about the tappets.  The adjustment screw doesn't seem to lock down.  Is this normal?

20160221_221427.jpg

 

 


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#154 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 05:26 PM

Help!

Does anybody know where I can find the wire lock (Is this the correct name?) for this type of cylinder?  I've looked all over the place and can't find any.  They don't sell them at the hydraulic shop where I'm getting my hoses made.

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#155 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 08:44 PM

I was looking over the cooling shield for the head on the K301 and noticed that it was different than the K321 head.  The K301 head has the third generation head and the K321 has the 4th generation head (according to Brian Millers site).  This means that my cooling shield for the K321 head won't work for the K301 head (the K301 didn't have all of it's shielding when I bought it).  This means that all the work on the K301 head that I did last night was wasted time.  Tonight I get to flatten the K321 head so that I can use the tin for that head and not have to buy more parts.  The only difference in the heads is the location of the spark plug.

                                                                                

cylhead4.jpg

cylhead3.jpg

The top pic is of the 4th gen. and the bottom pic is of the 3rd gen.


Edited by Mark Julson, February 24, 2016 - 07:53 PM.


#156 olds45512 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 09:18 PM

torque spec on those heads is 25 - 30 ft/lbs, when i install one i go to 25 and then to 28 and then i run the engine till its hot then let it cool and torque to 30. i generally like to check the head bolts for the first couple runs just to make sure everything is ok.


Edited by olds45512, February 22, 2016 - 09:20 PM.

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#157 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 01:50 AM

Worked on the engine for a little bit tonight.  I took the head off the K321 and sanded it down on my plate glass until it was perfectly flat.  Cleaned out the threads for head bolts and the bolts with a tap and die.  I put anti-seize on the bolts, aligned the gasket and head, and hand tightened the bolts.  I torqued them to 25 ft/lbs and then to 28 ft/lbs as suggested by olds45512.  I'm not sure if I installed the muffler support bracket (I just got that in the mail today.  I finally found one but paid to much) correctly but in the pictures it shows the stud, washer, spacer, washer, bracket washer, nut.  I put it together this way because of the way the head shielding bolts on.  Is this correct?

20160222_211329.jpg 20160222_211313.jpg

I installed the oil pan.  I double checked my valve adjustment and followed the direction on how to install the valve cover.  I started cleaning the engine in preparations for paint. 

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I'll clean the rest of the engine and install the shielding tomorrow.

Does anyone have tips for painting the engine?

 

I was using some brake cleaner and this yellow jacket fell out of the front pto.  He was still alive but not for long.

20160222_221110.jpg

 


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#158 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 06:23 AM

This place sells the retaining wire in metric , not sure if it would be the correct size and I stumbled on removal and installation for the wire

https://www.hercules...home.php?cat=41

 

 

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#159 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 10:26 AM

This place sells the retaining wire in metric , not sure if it would be the correct size and I stumbled on removal and installation for the wire

https://www.hercules...home.php?cat=41

Thanks for the find!  I think I can make that work.


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#160 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 04:13 PM

Lot's of cylinders put together that way.  IH plow cylinders are that way.  They are easy to put back together, the "C" clip has a hooked end you put in the gland cap and then you spin the cap and it pulls the clip in and its together.  Looks like you're making good headway.

I took the information that you gave me and I called the Case IH dealer.  They were able to find the "retaining wire"  in their parts catalog.  The number is 140600C1.  They cost about $8 each and they're 1/8" x 1/8" x 12"(Update- this was the wrong size of locking wire.  Check for a later post for what I did).  I'll need two of them and they said they'd have them by tomorrow.  The parts person was fantastic.  She didn't have any on hand but called another store to find out what the dimensions where.   Part of the problem in find this part was the name.  Some called it a locking wire or retaining wire.  That gets you a couple of million hits on the internet.


Edited by Mark Julson, February 24, 2016 - 07:47 PM.

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#161 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 07:29 PM

I got my headlight nose piece back today from the vocational school.  It's not perfect but the cracks are welded and I can sand and use some body filler to straighten out what I have.  Here are the before pics:

20160217_205108.jpg 20160217_205120.jpg

After                                                                 There was a big chunk missing from the nose in the 3rd pic.

20160223_160702.jpg 20160223_160712.jpg 20160223_160732.jpg

 

I also made a trip to the hydraulic shop to get all of the new hoses for the fel.  The new hoses are wire tied to the old hoses so I don't mix them up when I install them.

20160223_160911.jpg 20160223_160941.jpg 20160223_160951.jpg

 


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#162 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2016 - 02:03 AM

Tried to get a lot of the grease and loose paint off the engine tonight.  The tin shielding took a lot longer to clean and sand than I expected.  I also ran a tap through all of the bolts holes for the shielding.  Found a broken bolt and spent more time extracting it out.  Once I put the shielding on I noticed that it doesn't look like it sitting correctly on the engine.  I'll have to find some pictures to see if I can figure out what I'm doing wrong.  Hoping to paint the engine this weekend. 

Should I paint the shielding separate or should I paint it when it's on the motor? 

Looks like the factor painted the shielding while it was on the motor.

 

20160223_224219.jpg 20160223_224201.jpg 20160223_224150.jpg 20160223_224130.jpg



#163 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2016 - 07:40 AM

Very enjoyable read this morning. Thanks for taking us along on the ride! It is looking good :thumbs:


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#164 olds45512 ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2016 - 12:41 PM

I always paint with the shields on that way it keeps the paint off the cooling fins, the engine will cool better with unpainted fins.
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#165 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2016 - 07:46 PM

I took the information that you gave me and I called the Case IH dealer.  They were able to find the "retaining wire"  in their parts catalog.  The number is 140600C1.  They cost about $8 each and they're 1/8" x 1/8" x 12".  I'll need two of them and they said they'd have them by tomorrow.  The parts person was fantastic.  She didn't have any on hand but called another store to find out what the dimensions where.   Part of the problem in find this part was the name.  Some called it a locking wire or retaining wire.  That gets you a couple of million hits on the internet.

I got the retaining wire from the IH dealer.  Got it home and it measured at .091 (not 1/8 in. or .125).  I got back on the computer and did some more searching.  Found some key stock at Grainger that measures 12" x 1/8" x 1/8".  I've been told that key stock is the same material as the lock wire.  If your interested here is the link.  If this is the right material it will only cost me $2.54 for two pieces.  It arrives at the local store on Monday. 


Edited by Mark Julson, February 25, 2016 - 10:20 AM.

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