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New Cub Cadet 149: The tear-down begins!

cub cadet 149 14 hp kohler fel danco

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#136 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2016 - 07:19 AM

Yes Mark that is a factory brkt for the lift cylinder...they all look like that. Now that I see a close up of your nose/head light panel I now see that it has both bulbs. At the beginning of this thread it looked like one bulb was missing, that's way I was asking if you were missing one of the inner rings. I would remove the panel before taking it to the school for repairs BUT I would bring the hood AND the hinge to insure alignment after and/or during repairs because of so many cracks and breaks.

Where did you find the small Hime joint for your hydro linkage?
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#137 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2016 - 10:33 AM

Yes Mark that is a factory brkt for the lift cylinder...they all look like that. Now that I see a close up of your nose/head light panel I now see that it has both bulbs. At the beginning of this thread it looked like one bulb was missing, that's way I was asking if you were missing one of the inner rings. I would remove the panel before taking it to the school for repairs BUT I would bring the hood AND the hinge to insure alignment after and/or during repairs because of so many cracks and breaks.

Where did you find the small Hime joint for your hydro linkage?

I removed the headlight bezels and retaining rings but I left the metal panel that the lights bolt onto in place.  I was worried that the nose piece might fall apart once the metal panel is removed.  I'm going to have them remove the metal panel after they tack all the cracks in place.  

I didn't use a heim joint for the hydro linkage (maybe I should have).  It's the same style of ball joint that was on it.  I found that at our local store called Ranch and Home.  They do have small heim joints but I didn't think of using them for the hydro.  I will be putting heim joints on the steering linkage.


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#138 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2016 - 11:51 PM

Came home today and found three packages waiting for me :dancingbanana:

Here is what I received:

20160218_171416.jpg

Steering box upgrade

20160218_171401.jpg

Heim joints for the steering linkage.  They came with grade 8 bolts, washers, and nylon lock nuts.

20160218_171343.jpg

Air filter

20160218_171318.jpg 20160218_171330.jpg

Carb rebuild kit

I'll rebuild the carb and install the heim joints Friday night. 

The vocational school welding instructor is going to do all of the welding on the 149 front nose piece.  She   said it will be done by tomorrow. 

I'm suppose to get the rings and gaskets for the engine on this Saturday.  Hopefully I can get the engine put back together, cleaned, and painted by next Saturday.  Have the frame prepared for the following Saturday.  I hoping to have everything done by April just in time for Spring clean-up. 

 


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#139 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2016 - 08:20 PM

I went to the local hydraulic shop to pick-up some O-rings and scrapers for the cylinders on the FEL.  I couldn't believe the price! $12.76.  I've seen seal kits for the Danco loader on-line for about $20 for one cylinder!  Here is what I got: 

20160219_165708.jpg

 

While I was at it I asked him to look at all of my old cracked hoses from the FEL.  He measured everything(about 11 different hoses) and made a list of the materials.  He quoted me $237($21.50 per hose).  I thought it would be higher so I left the hoses with him and he's going to make me a whole new set.  I shouldn't have to worry about a hose breaking for a long time. 


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#140 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2016 - 09:12 PM

Just walked out the front door of the house and found a box sitting there. Opened it up and here is what I found

20160219_175345.jpg

K301 gasket set with rings

20160219_175337.jpg

K301 tune-up kit

 

I'm going to be very busy this weekend!

 


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#141 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 03:08 AM

Sandblasting the fel is a good idea, you'd be surprised how many cracks are hiding under all that paint. Time to get out the welder.

Olds45512 you are 100% correct about the cracks in the fel.  Thanks for that suggestion.

Because I had all of the hydraulic hoses off I decide to completely remove the fel.  When I turned the fel over this is what I found.

20160219_204507.jpg 20160219_204518.jpg

The left pic. show a short crack running to a point in the bracing.  The right pic. shows a crack that runs the full length of the left lift arm until the arm bends for the second part of the arm.  That is the only crack that I could see so far.  Add that one to the to do list.

Here's what my tractor looks like without the fel on it.  I thinks it's been a long time sense this has been off.

20160219_204639.jpg

The next thing that I did was install the bearing for the steering gearbox.  I also added more grease through the grease zerk just for good measure.  I does seem to turn more smoothly and easily.

20160219_220313.jpg

I followed that up with installing the heim joints on the steering linkage.

20160219_220338.jpg 20160219_220352.jpg 20160219_230125.jpg

It took a lot of adjustment to get the toe-in correct and to get the proper number of steering wheel turns from left to right to be the same.  The steering feels a lot tighter and should make it more enjoyable to drive around.

Next, I lifted the front end of the tractor off of the ground with the engine hoist so I could get a better look at the bottom end. 

20160219_231119.jpg

In this picture you can see where a pulley from the mule drive has made some small cuts into the front axle. 

20160219_231137.jpg

Here is a picture of the backside of the front upgraded steering knuckles.  They look pretty solid.

20160219_231146.jpg

The bottom side needs to be pressure washed but looks to be in good shape.

20160219_231252.jpg 20160219_231626.jpg

I did notice that the backside of the light switch is missing the second spade connection.  It's the white looking circle with only one wire going to it in the middle of the picture.

20160219_231459.jpg

 

 


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#142 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 08:54 AM

Well, looks like your going to put that Miller MIG unit to work. At the beginning of this thread in your pics you posted it looks that the loader is a little tweaked to one side...now we know. How is the play on your front axle pin since you got it up in the air?
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#143 olds45512 ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 11:03 AM

make sure you grind the cracks out in a v shape so you get a good weld, just welding on the top of the crack will be weak.


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#144 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 12:58 PM

Well, looks like your going to put that Miller MIG unit to work. At the beginning of this thread in your pics you posted it looks that the loader is a little tweaked to one side...now we know. How is the play on your front axle pin since you got it up in the air?

I'll have to do some practice bead runs to make sure I'm not rusty.  I pulled the axle pin out last night and it has a lot wear so I ordered a new one this morning.   



#145 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2016 - 01:00 PM

make sure you grind the cracks out in a v shape so you get a good weld, just welding on the top of the crack will be weak.

It looks like they welded it on the surface originally which is probably why it failed. 



#146 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 02:43 AM

Only have a couple of hours to work on the tractor today.  I started with putting the K301 piston back in the block tonight.  I checked the new rings in the cylinder wall for proper end gap.  Installed the rings and lubed up the piston.  I made sure the notch on the cap and rod were lined up with each other.  Made sure the oiling hole was lined up on the camshaft side of the block.   

This is the first time that I've put together one of these engines.  Does it look like it's right? 

20160220_214227.jpg 20160220_214208.jpg

 


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#147 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 05:54 AM

Looks good form here!


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#148 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 12:54 PM

I'll have to do some practice bead runs to make sure I'm not rusty.  I pulled the axle pin out last night and it has a lot wear so I ordered a new one this morning.   

Do yourself a favor and ditch the axle pin.  Get a 3/4" fine thread grade 8 bolt and a nylock nut and if that axle doesn't have a grease zerk in it center drill the bolt  and put a grease fitting in the bolt head. Then make a grease channel around the outside of the bolt.  The problem with those front ends is that the tractor frame spreads apart over time and even if the pin is tight they will still wobble some.  A bolt will pinch that back together and take ALL the slop out of it.  I have done this to both my 100 and my 107 and it makes a world of difference in the amount of steering slop in the axle.


Edited by IHCubGuy, February 21, 2016 - 12:58 PM.

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#149 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 02:12 PM

Do yourself a favor and ditch the axle pin.  Get a 3/4" fine thread grade 8 bolt and a nylock nut and if that axle doesn't have a grease zerk in it center drill the bolt  and put a grease fitting in the bolt head. Then make a grease channel around the outside of the bolt.  The problem with those front ends is that the tractor frame spreads apart over time and even if the pin is tight they will still wobble some.  A bolt will pinch that back together and take ALL the slop out of it.  I have done this to both my 100 and my 107 and it makes a world of difference in the amount of steering slop in the axle.

Great idea but I  have a questions.  Do you mean a grease channel like the current pins have in them or a channel that runs almost the full length of the bolt?


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#150 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 02:46 PM

Great idea but I  have a questions.  Do you mean a grease channel like the current pins have in them or a channel that runs almost the full length of the bolt?

Just a channel that runs around the bolt.  I center drill the bolt to a depth that stops at the halfway point of the axle, (the axles centerline front to back)  Then I drill in from the side of the bolt with a small bit, no bigger than 1/8" till I reach the other hole and then put a groove around the circumference of the bolt to give it a grease channel.  You could make the channel parallel with the bolt towards the outer edge of where it meets the axle if you wanted to and then put 2 separate rings around the bolt circumference.  The big advantage is being able to draw that piece of "C" on the frame back together to tighten it back up to the axle.


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