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#1 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2016 - 08:34 PM

So recently the engine in my early 70s 2414 started knocking. On Craigslist somone selling 3 engines, a k321, k321 and one other k series. All the engines are in pieces and none of them would be a drop in purchase. I read something somewhere thay the PK used an odd sized crank shaft? I'd like to upgrade to the 16hp if it's possible.
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#2 classic ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2016 - 08:50 PM

Myself, I'd rather buy an engine in pieces than together. This way you can inspect and measure everything that you are buying. Crankshafts and camshafts are costly, so it's good to be able see what you are getting when you buy these old engines. I believe the PTO shaft on the PK Kohler engines is 1-1/8" and not 1" like on a lot of other engines in it's class.
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#3 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 06:36 AM

Is it possible to make things work with the smaller shafts?

#4 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 07:56 AM

Most of big kohlers have same size shaft.  1-1/8".  Briggs used the 1" and there were clutch flywheels with that size hole in them. They are a little harder to find. Another issue is the casting on PK's have a circular raised area for the hogshead (bell housing) to set on and be located before adding the four big bolts that hold it on. Some folks say that is needed. Not all the engines have that. I have used engines w/out the casting ring, the bolts are still same holes and never had any issues with the tractor drive coming loose or such myself. I don't think it is really much of an issue.  Can be Battery or electronic ignitions, either way, but would require some slight mods on wiring and correct key switch to run the one you chose. If you have points now, easier to find K engine with points to put back and not change anything.  If the oil pan has the four mount feet for the bolts outside it is same pattern. Engines in John Deere's, Fords, and Cub Cadets have smaller pan and don't mount flat on the feet and Wont work in the PK. Most 10 thru 16 K engines are same crank size and height and controls and should work.


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#5 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 09:32 AM

If you must rebuild one just rebuild the one you have.  You can tweak it some for more power while you are rebuilding it.  :thumbs:


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#6 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 11:22 AM

I am not into rebuilding engines any more so if I buy an engine I want a complete ready to drop in, guaranteed to run engine.  No basket cases.  those days are gone and you never know if you getting all the parts or not till you try to put it together.  Then find the crank or rod has been switched, or wrong rod cap or something.  Nope, running or none at all.  That is the route I chose to go.  I'l leave the baskets cases to the others.


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#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 12:50 PM

The Kohler in a JD 314 has a 30mm dia shaft on the PTO side. Not a standard inch size at all. Just a bit smaller than 1-3/16th. It's best to take a calliper or micrometer along to measure them just to avoid surprises. 



#8 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 01:34 PM

Hi here's a Kohler spec manual to give some information on cranks etc. I would remove the engine and open it up and see how it looks, and rebuild it, it pretty hard to beat a good running K321 (14HP) I really doubt you would be able to tell if the tractor had a K321 or a K341 installed, my $0.02.

Attached File  Kohler Universal Service Engines.pdf   1.16MB   28 downloads



#9 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 01:39 PM

Is it possible to make things work with the smaller shafts?

Yes as GL posted the B&S 16 hp has a 1" shaft and there are guys that have installed Honda's and the Chinese clones and they have 1" CS, if you can't find a 1" clutch /flywheel you could use a adapter bushing like this

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



#10 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 07:47 PM

i was thinking of trying a briggs. when engine shop made me wait for ever to fix my kohler.hopefully its goo this time.bill



#11 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 08:06 PM

Thanks guys for your input. All great opinions. I'm not opposed to rebuilding the engine in the tractor. I just like the thought taking my time building an engine and then remove and replace. As apposed to removing the engine in the tractor, ta king time t rebuild and hope to god I don't loose anything in the process. But u sure do see the good side of rebuilding my k321.

#12 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2016 - 09:00 PM

On the Performance side of things, I want better torque but remain reliable for heavy yard work. What should I look for for parts? I see what people advertise for pulling engines but it all seems over the top.




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