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Growing sweet corn


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#31 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2016 - 10:52 AM

 A "one size fits all" approach just doesn't work for corn seed. Sorry for the rant.

 

Used to have the same problem. I've found the planter works a lot better if you don't fill the hopper over half full. Less is even better. It's still not perfect but good enough for the corn I eat.  :D


Edited by Cvans, January 20, 2016 - 10:53 AM.

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#32 Jazz OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2016 - 12:42 PM

Racoons are new to our area..20 years ago they were a rare sight.  We also have grey and black squirrels in the 'hood the past 10 years.  I initially "eliminated" all the squirrels and then realized my sight hounds were not as active...chasing squirrels about the most fun a hound  can have! So I live and let live now.  Live trap be a good plan right from seed just to see how many are in your area.

 I assume you are in the Slate River Valley area. 



#33 Greasy6020 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2016 - 01:56 PM

Racoons are new to our area..20 years ago they were a rare sight. We also have grey and black squirrels in the 'hood the past 10 years. I initially "eliminated" all the squirrels and then realized my sight hounds were not as active...chasing squirrels about the most fun a hound can have! So I live and let live now. Live trap be a good plan right from seed just to see how many are in your area.
I assume you are in the Slate River Valley area.

Yah I'm in slate river. Last summer raccoons trashed the corn in the garden and left everything else alone.

#34 Greasy6020 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2016 - 02:16 PM

I have an earthway planter that was given to me. It only has one size seed plate for corn. It just plain doesn't work with the sweet corn varieties sold in my area. The holes are too big and the seeds are not planted accurately. To test the planter I raised the depth adjustment all the way up so the planter could be rolled on the concrete drive with no interference. After pushing it along I would end up with the seeds dropping completely erratically. It would skip at times and overplant at times. It is also too light to cut into the furrow and repack over the seed. Now anyone who row crop farms, (at least prior to the "finger pick up" days when planters still had plates, it was common that the seed companies would provide you with the correct sized plates for the variety of seed purchased. A "one size fits all" approach just doesn't work for corn seed. Sorry for the rant.

As for tillage, that will vary based on the soil types and locations. I used to fall plow my garden. It is on a slight slope and I found that by springtime I would often experience some erosion. As a result I no longer work the ground in the fall. I do not spring plow either because my clay soil needs to "over winter" before it will mellow enough to break up the slabs with a disk and tiller. Instead I save the plow for GT plow days in better soil and just use a tractor mounted tiller to work the garden. After getting the ground tilled finely I would use a sleeve hitch cultivator with all but two standards removed and adjust the remaining two to the desired row with. I would then tow the cultivator through to line out my rows. Then I would hand plant a couple of seeds every six inches or so and cover them back up with a hoe. I can't take credit for the cultivator idea as I know I read about it on a tractor forum somewhere. In our dry summers, watering was crucial and was done with a couple of sprinklers and soaker hoses. I always had lots of problems with bugs. The corn in the Midwest is very prone to ear worms. For me it was rare to get two good ears to a plant.

As for the princes auto disk, I doubt you will get near as good of results as using a tiller. Unless its a tandem disk it will leave hills at each end. On a tandem disk the front gang throws the dirt outward and the rear pulls it back toward the center leaving you a more level seedbed. A tandem disk would likely be too much for your Moto-Mower to pull without risking damage. The disk will not work the soil very deep (unless its a larger one pulled behind a farm tractor) and would likely leave you with more compacted soil than the tiller.


I will be working on a slope. The disk I am talking about is a 33" disk like the offset disks some farmers here like to use every fall. I agree the disk might not work too well unless the ground has been plowed previously. I will be adding 2 suitcase weights (like full size from farm tractor) to get more cutting action from the disk. All I want the disk for is finishing off the seed bed and levelling the ground.

Here is a picture of the disk I'm talking about.



image.jpg
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#35 Greasy6020 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2016 - 12:59 AM

Ok so I have a better plan.

Dimensions of the garden will be different. 200 feet by 120 feet. Corn will be planted on 48" rows to allow for in row cultivation. That gives me 30 rows. Assuming 400 plants a row on 6" centres as stated by johndeereelfman that gives me 12,000 plants. To be pessimistic I will assume 1.5 ears of corn per plant giving me 18,000 ears of corn. That in total is 1,500 dozen ears of corn. Times 4 dollars a dozen gives me $6,000 in sales.

I have a budget of $1,500 to allow for equipment seed fertilizer and hired help.

inputs:
Manure -n/a
fertilizer to side dress -???
Fuel -$300
Seed -$75
Land -n/a

Tractors:
Massey ferguson 12 gt -n/a
Moto Mower 6020 gt -n/a

Implements:
Plow -n/a
Cultivator -$399.99
Row crop cultivator -n/a



Grand total cost:
$775

Total profits to be had after costs:
$5225

Edited by Greasy6020, January 30, 2016 - 01:01 AM.

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#36 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2016 - 05:08 AM

You plant the rows 48" apart , you better re calc your figures to .5 ears per plant. The stuff won't pollinate proper, and it will be too easy to get storm damaged and the weeds will take over in no time.. Another thing to consider, the neighbors corn... If he is growing something different you better know what it is!! So you can plant yours first, and at least 3 weeks time difference, from tassle or you will have cow corn.... As corn cross pollinates way too easy...

#37 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2016 - 08:23 AM

If you want to do wide spacing for cultivation, I would suggest double rows. 1 spacing at 12 inches then a 48 inch and 12 again. 


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#38 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2016 - 10:36 AM

You plant the rows 48" apart , you better re calc your figures to .5 ears per plant. The stuff won't pollinate proper,

 

Don't mean to start something here but I have been planting my sweet corn this way for years and have had no pollination problems at all. We usually have large ears that are nicely filled out. If you plant in a sheltered area where the wind never blows your results could be be a lot different. 


Edited by Cvans, January 30, 2016 - 10:37 AM.

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#39 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2016 - 12:31 PM

I grow several acres every year and plant 30 " rows @ 8" spacing which gives you 25,000 plants per acre.  I run 1.5 cobs of salable corn per plant.

I would not recommend these high population with out lots of fertilizer.

10" to 12" seed spacings will give you a nice sized cob with moderate fertility.

 

I use a single 7000 JD row unit with in farrow low salt starter fertilizer (7-21-7) @ 6 gallons per acre. 

 

We also broad cast 200 lbs of urea (nitrogen) 75 lbs of phosphorus and 150 lbs of potash and 10 ton of cow manure per acre.

Then @ just over knee high we apply 25 gallons of 28% (28-0-0)

 

We use some Round-Up ready seed and spray with 41% glyphosate @ 2 Qts per acre when weeds are under 3 ".

On our other seed we use Lumax + .5 lb atrazine pre-plant.

On problem weeds I have used Lumax + .5 lb atrazine pre-plant with Round-Up ready seed and use 41% glyphosate after the corn is up

We find these gives use excellent weed control.

 

If it necessary we spray with Sevin at silking to control the ear worms.

 

Hope this helps.


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#40 oldedeeres ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2016 - 12:36 PM

My rows are widely spaced as well and I have had no problems. I can make two passes between the rows with the Honda walk behind while the corn is small and one when it gets waist high on a short woman, lol. Rows are planted north and south to get most sun exposure this far north. Side dress with manure mulch to conserve moisture and water when nature doesn't do it for me. Because of my needs and the varieties I like to experiment with, my rows are planted in patches about 15-20 feet long, three rows wide, and alternating from one side of the garden to the other, with at least three rows of other veggies between patches. I'll try four or five different varieties a year and by planting them this way and spacing the different maturity/pollinating dates, I have had no problems with cross pollination.
I hand plant, dropping seed at around 3" spacing and if necessary thin/transplant after germination to allow for losses due to bugs, poor germination etc. Pretty labour intensive for a project like yours I know.

Edited by oldedeeres, January 30, 2016 - 12:43 PM.

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#41 Greasy6020 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2016 - 06:04 PM

Don't mean to start something here but I have been planting my sweet corn this way for years and have had no pollination problems at all. We usually have large ears that are nicely filled out. If you plant in a sheltered area where the wind never blows your results could be be a lot different.


It's in the middle of a field. Wind comes from the west and it's open from that side. It isn't all that sheltered there. Dads corn pollinated just fine about 90 feet North of where I will be planting
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#42 bill edler OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2016 - 04:40 AM

i have been told that the golden fly bait mixed with water or coke in a pan in your corn patch will kill the coons with in 30 feet 0f the pans i have not tried but had some hanging in horse barn and killed possum 10 feet away from the fly bucket 



#43 Greasy6020 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2016 - 09:33 AM

i have been told that the golden fly bait mixed with water or coke in a pan in your corn patch will kill the coons with in 30 feet 0f the pans i have not tried but had some hanging in horse barn and killed possum 10 feet away from the fly bucket

Neat! I won't be able to try that... Step mom is very against harming animals.

I'd prefer not to have my food laced with something like ex lax because I did that...

Edited by Greasy6020, March 29, 2016 - 09:33 AM.

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#44 Diesel1050 ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2016 - 04:45 PM

Didn't you get a Deere 300? That would be a pretty good machine for tillage work....

#45 Greasy6020 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2016 - 08:06 PM

Didn't you get a Deere 300? That would be a pretty good machine for tillage work....


Yes I did. Need to reset governor to factory specs, change oil in motor and tranny, find where the exhaust leaks from and find a set of tire chains or ag tires

I agree it would be a good tillage machine.




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