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1987 Craftsman GT6000 Choke Cable Froze

1987 gt6000 choke froze help!

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#1 70sgreatestrockbands@gmail OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2016 - 10:09 PM

 My 1987 Craftsman GT6000's choke cable froze up this past weekend. The temperature was in the teens (15º maybe), and I was testing out our newly fixed GT6000, so when I tried the pull the choke to start it, all I got was about a centimeter of movement in the line, and I know for a fact that isn't right. So I tried to start it anyway, but of course it wouldn't start without a full choke in those conditions. I had to remove the line from the choke tab so I could manually adjust the choke. Any ideas on how to fix this? I'd like to keep everything as original as possible, I would like to just repair the line, but I don't know what the problem is. I think it's happening right where the choke cable is bolted to the dashboard. 

s-l300.jpg See where the part that you pull has that bolt and silver tube behind it, that's where it's freezing up. Can anyone help me!!!???? No water got in it, so that couldn't be a cause.


Edited by 70sgreatestrockbands@gmail, January 16, 2016 - 08:49 AM.


#2 637Yeoman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2016 - 10:19 PM

 My 1987 Craftsman GT6000's choke cable froze up this past weekend. The temperature was in the teens (15º maybe), and I was testing out our newly fixed GT6000, so when I tried the pull the choke to start it, all I got was about a centimeter of movement in the line, and I know for a fact that isn't right. So I tried to start it anyways, but of course it wouldn't start without a full choke in those conditions. I had to remove the line from the choke tab so I could manually adjust the choke. Any ideas on how to fix this? I'd like to keep everything as original as possible, I would like to just repair the line, but I don't know what the problem is. I think it's happening right where the choke cable is bolted to the dashboard. 

s-l300.jpg See were the part that you pull has that bolt and silver tube behind it, that's where it's freezing up. Can anyone help me!!!???? AKA, no water got in it, so that couldn't be a cause.

did it freeze or is it rusted shut?



#3 Tecumseh power ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2016 - 10:23 PM

Pull off the plastic knob, heat the silver tube with a propane torch and squirting with wd 40 while it is still hot. It will come free
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#4 637Yeoman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2016 - 10:27 PM

Pull off the plastic knob, heat the silver tube with a propane torch and squirting with wd 40 while it is still hot. It will come free

That will fix it if its frozen or rusted.


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#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2016 - 11:17 PM

Since its out, if you take it inside will it move after it thaws?
If not, it's corroded.
Here's how I have gotten them unstuck before.
Take a zip lock freezer bag, push the non-knob end thru a corner and pull it thru until the tube and the knob are all that's in the bag.
Take good tape and wrap it around that corner of the bag, sealing the bag to the shaft.
Partially fill the bag with your favorite penetrating oil. I would use diesel or Kero, but I would also be conscious of the plastic being affected.
Zip it shut, then hang it from something.
Put a container under it to catch what leaks out. Thin oils will leach thru the cable and eventually free the cable.
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#6 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2016 - 11:21 PM

I use Lock-Eaze to lube mine. It is a graphite powder, but wet when first used and dries to just the graphite later. I kind of leach it down the wire into the opening. it flows all-over and is messy at first. If the cable was out of tractor, you can see it flow down on outside of the wound spring as it goes down. I do this when out of tractor. Of course if not straight or facing down, it will not run back uphill to rest of cable and just run off at lowest point. Unlike oil, it will not attract dirt and works warm or cold. You might be able to feed some from dash end and back at the engine end if higher and would work I suppose. If stuck hard, you will need to use another treatment first before the Lock-Ease. 


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#7 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2016 - 04:17 AM

Easiest way to fix it will cost ya a whopping $10.

Replace it.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...t-/131314168952

 

 

I ordered a 96" one for $11.96.I plan on cutting it in 1/2 and replace both the throttle and choke cables on my old sears suburban.


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#8 70sgreatestrockbands@gmail OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2016 - 08:40 AM

 My 1987 Craftsman GT6000's choke cable froze up this past weekend. I was testing out our newly fixed GT6000, so when I tried the pull the choke to start it, all I got was about a 10th of an inch out of the line, and I know for a fact that isn't right. So I tried to start it anyways, but of course it wouldn't start without a full choke. I had to remove the line from the choke tab so I could manually adjust the choke. Any ideas on how to fix this? I'd like to keep everything as original as possible, I would like to just repair the line, but I don't know what the problem is. I think it's happening right where the choke cable is bolted to the dashboard. 

s-l300.jpg See were the part that you pull has that bolt and silver tube behind it, that's where it's freezing up. Can anyone help me!!!????

Update: I think the plastic has worn down and it jammed up with plastic shavings.



#9 70sgreatestrockbands@gmail OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2016 - 08:43 AM

Since its out, if you take it inside will it move after it thaws?
If not, it's corroded.
Here's how I have gotten them unstuck before.
Take a zip lock freezer bag, push the non-knob end thru a corner and pull it thru until the tube and the knob are all that's in the bag.
Take good tape and wrap it around that corner of the bag, sealing the bag to the shaft.
Partially fill the bag with your favorite penetrating oil. I would use diesel or Kero, but I would also be conscious of the plastic being affected.
Zip it shut, then hang it from something.
Put a container under it to catch what leaks out. Thin oils will leach thru the cable and eventually free the cable.

Well, thats the problem, it isn't out yet. That was just a picture I pulled of the internet just to give you guys an idea of what I was talking about.


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#10 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2016 - 08:57 AM

Never had any luck getting them free once seized.  I have 2 that have been laying in the bottom of the parts washer for 6 months.  Have a couple more hanging next to the Blaster and get a shot where ever I walk by.  Just a dull red knob on a rusty cable.  :wallbanging:     :wallbanging:     :wallbanging:  Replace it like EricfromPA said.  Paint the knob before you put it on if that is your concern. :thumbs:  :wave:


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#11 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2016 - 09:07 AM

I usually just replace the cable since it is a very cheap fix. I have never had much luck reviving them

Those cables linked on ebay I sell for $8.25


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#12 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2016 - 10:20 AM

You can get a universal choke cable at Advance auto in the help section for like $8. You gotta pull out the inner cable then cut outer sheath then put cable back in and cut it. Done 



#13 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2016 - 10:28 AM

Easiest way to fix it will cost ya a whopping $10.
Replace it.
 
http://www.ebay.com/...t-/131314168952
 
 
I ordered a 96" one for $11.96.I plan on cutting it in 1/2 and replace both the throttle and choke cables on my old sears suburban.

I usually just replace the cable since it is a very cheap fix. I have never had much luck reviving them
Those cables linked on ebay I sell for $8.25


Sound like a deal to me.

#14 70sgreatestrockbands@gmail OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2016 - 01:32 PM

I use Lock-Eaze to lube mine. It is a graphite powder, but wet when first used and dries to just the graphite later. I kind of leach it down the wire into the opening. it flows all-over and is messy at first. If the cable was out of tractor, you can see it flow down on outside of the wound spring as it goes down. I do this when out of tractor. Of course if not straight or facing down, it will not run back uphill to rest of cable and just run off at lowest point. Unlike oil, it will not attract dirt and works warm or cold. You might be able to feed some from dash end and back at the engine end if higher and would work I suppose. If stuck hard, you will need to use another treatment first before the Lock-Ease. 

Thank you very much! I used WD-40, since that was the closest thing I had, and it unlocked! Now I can pull the choke easy breezy. Thank you! :D  Now how do I un-post this topic?



#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2016 - 01:36 PM

Thank you very much! I used WD-40, since that was the closest thing I had, and it unlocked! Now I can pull the choke easy breezy. Thank you! :D  Now how do I un-post this topic?

You can't!


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