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Massey rear blade


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#1 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2016 - 01:53 PM

I built a Massey 10 a few years ago with a narrow front end and a 3 point. Now I want to build a replica of a MF 61 rear blade. I have gathered up a few of the parts and have started on the rear pivot. I need to know what is the distance between where the rear lift arms hook up to the lift pins on the blade. I don't have anywhere I can go measure a cat 0 implement.

Also what is the height from the lift pins to the top link?


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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2016 - 02:21 PM

Usually Cat 0 has a 20" spread and 12" up to the top link.


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#3 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2016 - 09:30 AM

Thanks for the info and my mistake it is a MF 21 instead of a 61



#4 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2016 - 01:37 PM

IMG_1863.JPG I got the back brace bent for the blade now I have to get it attached and figure out the bottom brace. The spindle is the part the blade turns on.


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#5 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2016 - 11:09 PM

I'm guessing that that is a 1" spindle. You may find that it is a bit too light for that task. The MF10/12 tractors can put a serious pull on the bottom edge of a back blade if it hooks up with a rock or root. Leverage will do the rest.

 

When I had a FEL on my 12H, it had enough rear axle torque to jackknife the tractor frame and break the weld on the frame splice when the bucket stopped in a pile of dirt. I can easily visualize that spindle getting bent if you hook something solid at speed. The tractor is a 675 lb sledge hammer. That's over 2900 pound feet of force applied to the cutting edge at a 3 mph impact. The weight of any applied ballast plus the operator increases that force load. The rear axle torque also adds.

 

Making that pivot too strong is never a problem. Whole different ball game if it's too light!


Edited by TUDOR, January 20, 2016 - 11:28 PM.

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#6 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2016 - 11:59 AM

P1110132.jpg  

 

The main shaft is 1 1/4 and the one that is on the Brinly blade was 1  or 1 1/4 . I doubt  if I will use this much as I don't use the Massey I build that it will fit on. It is more for show and the blade is just to see if I can duplicate the real thing. If I was going to use it I would have beefed up the mounting system. My concern is that the blade will be to heavy for my lifting motor to lift it.

This the tractor I am making it for.


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#7 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2016 - 06:42 PM

I welded up the rear frame today, now I have to get the center pivot made and attached.

 

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#8 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 01:25 PM

I welded the frame to the rear of the blade this weekend. Now I have to make the adjusting plate, then the part that holds the dog for the adjuster. Anybody know how to drill a square hole?

 

 

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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 07:44 AM

With a square bit?



#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 07:58 AM

Round bits and lots of filing.
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#11 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 08:15 AM

Item 28 is a square dog that fits in a cast iron part under the back end and is used as the locking mechanism to adjust the angle of the blade. Since it is cast I don't think it will be that hard to file square. I could buy a $200.00 broach and cut it but not sure I would ever use it again.

 

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#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 08:26 AM

That's good. I really don't like loaning out my square bit!  :smilewink:



#13 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 08:57 AM

I could buy one of these.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALiqAXiTQBg


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#14 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 08:50 PM

I made the spindle washer for the upper adjustment plate tonight. Now I have to make the plate with the notches in it. 

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#15 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2016 - 10:07 AM

I laid out the adjusting plate last night. Had to go way back and remember my geometry days to figure it out. But it worked and I got the holes drilled now I just have to spend some time at the band saw to cut the curve and the notches out.

 

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