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No Fuel At The Injector Pump


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#76 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2016 - 08:45 PM

Anyone installed a temp and/or oil pressure gauge on the B7100 series tractors?  Kind of like the gauges Kubota forgot.



#77 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2016 - 10:44 PM

I'm really glad to hear that you got it running. Get a set of chains on it and work the heck out of it.  Put a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery oil in each tank of fuel and it will continue to clean out and run better.

Best to you and your tractor.


Edited by Cvans, January 26, 2016 - 10:45 PM.

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#78 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2016 - 05:33 AM

Very good news!! That generation is a hard starting kubota when cold and requires just what you did, cycling the glow plugs .
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#79 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2016 - 06:15 AM

Glad you got to the bottom of it :dancingbanana:   Did the fellow rebuilding the injectors say why they got so bad ?  Bad fuel , biodiesel  ect ?


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#80 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2016 - 09:08 AM

Glad you got to the bottom of it :dancingbanana:   Did the fellow rebuilding the injectors say why they got so bad ?  Bad fuel , biodiesel  ect ?

He didn't really say but indicated that the sitting for 2+ years didn't help any.  The fuel I took out of the tank looked, smelled good and burned good in my space heater.  Was mixed with new fuel though.  I was really tickled when she came to life.  Especially after fighting the ignition on an S14D for over a month.  Is down to 19° this morning so good thing I worked on it yesterday when it was up to 29°.  If I do keep the tractor, or even get one with a loader will probably use a heat lamp hanging over the engine a few hours before I try to start it.  Warm fuel and warm head should make a big difference.  Thanks for all the advise and help on this project. 


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#81 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2016 - 09:30 AM

When I was checking fluid level, etc. on the tractor the hydro fluid was down to the bottom of the dip stick.  I plan to change the fluid and filter later when it warms up good.  For now I would like to bring the fluid level up to the proper level.  Question is, how does the oil fill cap come off?  Is it a threaded in or it is press in cap?  I cannot get it to move at all.  Tried with channel lock down from the top as no room to get on it side ways, and would not budge.  Don't want to pry up on it and brake it either.  I am thinking it is a screw in type cap or a screw on over a stem to help keep dirt out?



#82 bh115577 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2016 - 09:39 AM

I think it's the same as my BX2200 and is a thread in cap. Try warming the cap with a hair dryer and it should come out.


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#83 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2016 - 10:26 AM

I think it's the same as my BX2200 and is a thread in cap. Try warming the cap with a hair dryer and it should come out.

Will give that a try a little later.  Will let it warm up a little more with a good sunny day ahead.  Thanks for the info.



#84 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2016 - 08:47 AM

Back in the shop yesterday afternoon with the heater going.  Put the hair dryer on that plug for quit a while.  I was good and warm and the case was warming up also.  Really started to put the pressure on the cap when the top broke off.  Had a plug with a hole in the center left in the case.  Tired an easy out.  Turned it in as far as I could turn it with what leverage I had.  Easy out started to cut the inside of the plug out with the plug not turning.  I quit before I got small pieces of the plug in the hydro.  Tapered a 3/8" hard wood dowel and tapped it in the hole to close it off.  Hydro is full, hole in plugged.  Going to have to try something different but not sure what it is right off.

 

Some piddly stuff this morning, grease it up good and may take it up the road a ways just to run it for a bit.  Probably drain the oil again to as it look pretty black when I drained it last time.  Has a new filter in to that will help.



#85 bh115577 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2016 - 09:16 AM

Ouch. Sorry to hear the cap broke. Never figured it would be so tight that it would do that. Going to need higher temps to get it out I guess. Got a torch?

 

If you end up having to drill the cap for a larger e-z out put some grease on the bit and around the cap to help catch and hold the shavings. Best not to drill though being an HST model.



#86 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2016 - 11:11 AM

If you end up having to drill the cap for a larger e-z out put some grease on the bit

 

Good suggestion and if you can pressurize the inside of the housing (less than 5 psi.) it will help keep the chips out of the transmission.



#87 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2016 - 05:22 PM

Good suggestion and if you can pressurize the inside of the housing (less than 5 psi.) it will help keep the chips out of the transmission.

 

 

Ouch. Sorry to hear the cap broke. Never figured it would be so tight that it would do that. Going to need higher temps to get it out I guess. Got a torch?

 

If you end up having to drill the cap for a larger e-z out put some grease on the bit and around the cap to help catch and hold the shavings. Best not to drill though being an HST model.

The hole in the cap(plug) goes clear through now.  Was made that way.  Real sure there was no chips that got in the case as the easy out is tapered and it was biting at the very top.  A couple of curls were starting to curl upwards when I quit.  Another thing is by turning the extractor into the plastic plug it is also expanding the plug, which makes it tighter in the threaded hole.  So not sure that is the correct way to go about it either.  I can pressurize the case through the fluid lever check port.  One idea I had was to pressurize the case and cut a slot in the plug to fit a large screwdriver bit at least 3/8" deep, using a dremel tool.  Use a 1/4" impact on the bit and see what that does. Lot of times an impact will break something loose where turning along won't get the job done.  Not a pressing issue so will think about it a couple days.

 

I have a torch and may have to warm up the case around the plug to get it to expand a little to let the plug free up?  Heat the plug to soften the threads so they let go?   Not sure which way would be best.


Edited by chieffan, January 29, 2016 - 05:25 PM.


#88 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2016 - 06:36 PM

If the plug is plastic you can heat a large screw driver hot enough to melt the plastic and shove it in the hole and let it cool. A square screw driver works the best. After it cools put a crescent wrench on the shank of the driver and use that to turn the plug. A chisel also works good used instead of a screw driver. The larger the chisel the better.


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#89 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2016 - 10:01 PM

If the plug is plastic you can heat a large screw driver hot enough to melt the plastic and shove it in the hole and let it cool. A square screw driver works the best. After it cools put a crescent wrench on the shank of the driver and use that to turn the plug. A chisel also works good used instead of a screw driver. The larger the chisel the better.

Will check the cap to see just what material it is.  Might be Bakelite or along that line too.  I broke pretty clean so it is a harder material.   Good idea though on heating the toll to drive in.  Never thought of that.  Have an 850 to get running first in the morning and a guy in coming to look at a Gardener I have for sale so hopefully tomorrow afternoon I should be able to get to it.  Tthanks for the tips.  Appreciate it.


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#90 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2016 - 09:33 PM

Was waiting for the guy to show this morning so grabbed the 250 Watt soldering gun and put it to the knob.  It did not melt the knob.  Just made some smoke and a mess on the tip so I don't think that is going to work.  The material is to hard.  Another approach., tie a piece of wire around about a 2" piece of an old T-shirt good and tight.  Push the end down through the hole.  When completely through pull up on the wire to plug the hole at the bottom.  Use the Dremel to cut out a deep slot for the screwdriver bit to fit tight.  With the hole plugged no material can get into the Hydro.  Drive the bit in tight and then turn the plug out - hopefully.  It that don't work I can pull the wire and cloth out along with any chips.  going to sleep on it tonight and may give it a go tomorrow.


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