OK guys roll your eyes, I know how Tecumseh engines are so "loved" around here.
I'm gonna ask if anyone knows if the crankshafts could be swapped out between these 2 engines, as the PTO ends are different between them and my (hopeful) transplant prospect's crank will not work, as is.
The bad engine, is off of a walk behind snow blower that I dragged home earlier today.
I can tell that somebody has done a teardown of the original engine to determine what it would take to fix, it was all put back together less than finger tight and they left the rings out even, when they slapped it back together. this engine has the 2:1 extended camshaft, so does the hopeful replacement.
the only real problem I see is that the cam "bearing" (the engine cover) must have seized, the cam is all scored to He11, where it passes thru the cover. If worst came to worst I could possibly have that reamed oversize, and find a bushing at a bearing supply house to repair the block, it actually looks like the cam took the brunt of the damage. (then I'd have to find a cam, this one's not easy to do that on)
both have bronze bushings for the crank journal on PTO end. the block itself looks to be in very good shape on the original engine. (have not actually miked it out though that engine's junk, as far as I am concerned.. I am gonna harvest all the good parts, for the shelf)
anyway here goes;
original engine, Sears model 143.806082 which crosses to Tec model HM-80 155394P 1990 vintage
this is an 8HP, L head engine
hopeful replacement; 11 HP tec OHSK110 221703A what I can read off the sticker I'm guessing this eng. to be 1998. this is OHV engine. (sticker all brown and nasty from fuel leak, due to bad float)
both have same displacement, bore, stroke, and 2:1 extended camshaft. one will bolt directly in other one's footprint. crank height is identical.
original engine PTO; 3/4 dia X 2-1/4 long, full length keyway, 3/8-24 threaded in end.
replacement is 1-3/16 (same as main bearing dia) which steps down to 7/8 for about the last 1-1/2" in length, 3-1/4" long overall, same thread in end.
original crank has slightly narrower counterweights, larger hole through crankpin (Lighter Counterbalance)
donor motor crank, slightly wider counterweights, smaller dia hole through crankpin.
flywheel taper and keyways are identical
main bearing and crank pin dia. are the same between them.
Plan A; swap cranks, reassemble the OHV engine, bolt it on, done.
Plan B; have replacement engine's PTO end of crank turned down (and cut down an inch shorter, along with new keyway cut in) to match original engine's dimensions. I have the "bad" engine totally torn apart, the hopeful replacement is only apart as far as needed to yank the crank.
My concern (maybe overblown?) is the difference in counterweight thickness, balance...
I have had this 11HP sitting here a couple of years collecting dust, have been scouting CL (not very hard LOL) looking for a machine that this engine would work on. It runs well, just had to replace leaky float that had fuel leaking out mouth of carb like a faucet, along w/a new needle and seat, and new fuel line. at this point, I know that I will have a snow blower for sale once this one is running again. but IDK whether it will be this one or the one I've been using the last 6-7 years.