23 replies to this topic

[Chubien]

Thanks for the link, I knew I should use some sort of sealer before I install the tires. B

A friend of mine runs a mechanic shop and has some as well. I may just get some from him as he will install the tires anyways.

I was just wondering if I should paint the inside of the rims or not?

[KennyP]

Thanks for the link, I knew I should use some sort of sealer before I install the tires. B

A friend of mine runs a mechanic shop and has some as well. I may just get some from him as he will install the tires anyways.

I was just wondering if I should paint the inside of the rims or not?

I always paint the insides! They do make moisture in there.

[Chubien]

I have spent some time running the tractor but I run into misfiring issues after the tractor runs for more than 4-5 minutes. I started looking at the ignition and noticed I had the wrong type of coil installed, it actually had the type that requires the external resistance and it did have an external resistance installed, sparks were coming off the resistance when the tractor was running so I figured this setup was a mess and ripped it all out and got the proper coil with the internal resistance (NAPA IC14) installed.

Got the tractor running with the new coil but strangely it behaved in the same manner and was misfiring after a few minutes of running. I figured I should have a look at the points box, I had not looked at the points since this was a running tractor when bought and also it has the hydraulic lift option which needs to be removed to properly service the points.

Once I had the hydraulic lift off, I removed the points cover and noticed there was no condenser, upon closer inspection I also noticed that the cable which comes from the +side of the coil did not go to stud on the bottom of the breaker box but instead it was wired through the breaker box stud hole directly to the points! The breaker box stud, nylon bushings and copper ribbon cable were all missing!

I took the missing parts from my spare tra10d and got everything installed properly, she now finally runs smoothly.

I was wondering why this engine ran so hot, what a hack job that was, I'm surprised it ran at all.

[Bolens 1000]

Glad you got your issues solved, some times you just have to shake your head at the "repairs" some people do

[Chubien]

For some people keeping the tractor running at the lowest cost possible is all that matters I guess!

I have to say this tractor runs really nice, no smoke at all and the transmission shifts perfectly. I still need to change the drive and pto belts, the drive belts are the wrong type which are not for clutching applications, they grab quite a bit and make it difficult to clutch out smoothly.

[Bruce Dorsi]

 ...the drive belts are the wrong type which are not for clutching applications, they grab quite a bit and make it difficult to clutch out smoothly.

 

Which tractor ??

 

Aren't the drive belts under constant tension, with clutching done below at the clutch facings?

[Chubien]

Yes drive belts are under constant tension but the belts installed on the tractor are completely worn out and appears to be two different types. From what I read on the forum the recommendation is to install a kevlar type belt that is power rated which these are not.

Hopefully new belts fix my "grabby" clutching or I may need to look at the clutch.

[Bolens 1000]

You should get a matched pair of kevlars, I do stock matched sets but shipping to Canada would probably be a deal breaker.

If you go local get them from a dealer napa does not carry kevlar belts

[Chubien]

I have in stock a couple of true blue 248-034 for the drive belts, not matched, but they served the 1050 well. I may also have the pto belts, need to take a look. Rather do the 4 together.

Deal breaker is not the shipping as I have a USA shipping address, but it's the exchange rate that kills us at the moment.