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Spent some time on the 1000 today


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#1 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2016 - 10:32 PM

I finally had some time to jump back on the 1000. I got this tractor last summer but have hardly put any time on it at all, a few weeks ago I replaced the head gasket and it has sat since.

When I bought this tractor and loaded her up on the trailer I noticed it was possible to roll it with the pin engaged, occasionally it would lock but by rocking it back and forth I could always get it going again with a "clunk" coming from the gearbox. The strange thing is that the tractor runs well with no noticeable issues. I thought it best to have a closer look inside the gearbox.

I took the cover off and although the inside of the gearbox with dirty the gears are in great shape.

There was this black tar like sludge covering everything so I decided to clean it out using the same method I used a few weeks back to clean the gearbox on the 850: diesel fuel in a garden pump sprayer, I got it looking pretty good except for a thicker layer of that black sludge stuck on the bottom, I left it soaking overnight.

Here are pictures of before and after

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Next I disassembled the right side of the axle to fix a wheel wobble, I had previously purchased the bronze bushings to replace them. I struggled somewhat to remove the wheel hub from drive collar and also noticed more that usual play along the keyway when rocking the wheel back and forth. Once it was out I noticed the bronze bushings were actually in not too bad of a shape but upon closer inspection I noticed the drive collar was cracked along the keyway, this explains the play I was having.

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I was disappointed, this drive collar seemed in good shape with the locking tab intact. Luckily I had a couple spares including one NOS.

I intended to install my good used one which I had bought on eBay a while back, noticed it was also cracked along the keyway! There is definitely a weakness in this design.

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Ended up using my NOS one which fits well on the old bronze bushings so I won't need to change them after all.

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Tomorrow I'll put everything back together and adjust the axle end play, hopefully that's all that is needed to fix the rolling problem.

Edited by chubien, January 08, 2016 - 10:36 PM.

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#2 Austen OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2016 - 11:27 PM

Nice to have the kind of hardware in stock. :thumbs:

 

Great project and thanks for sharing it with us. Looking forward to the next update.


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#3 CanadianHobbyFarmer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 09:50 AM

The transmission looks like it's in great shape. Even better now that you have cleaned it up.

 

Jim


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#4 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 11:10 AM

Wow! looks like lotsa gears and compact there! Bet a pain to take apart?  Trying to see how it works. Guess that worm gear is main drive gear to rear, one side links to it, and on other side is the Differential then with spider gears and bigger taper ring gear?  Then is that same worm shaft also the pto? or why does it go out back?  Didn't seem direct enough to spin fast for pto, just wondering. Just a big bearing in case instead?  Looking at pix, looks like a gear and something fallen down into the big drive gear, but on closer look, guess that is just the gear and casting of the idlers, just hard to imagine how they are mounted in that tight area. An engineering marvel to me, how they can figure out all those actions and directions in such a tight compartment.  Just glad it's not ME trying to fix one of those, I would be lost for sure.


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#5 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 03:07 PM

Gears look good and it was great that you had a new hub handy just in case.  Those cracked hubs could be ground out where the crack is and bronzed or mig welded and then turned a little on the outside and have a piece of pipe pressed over the turned down section to strengthen them - would probably last a long time unless someone got really rough with them.  Once the pipe was pressed on it could be turned down to the correct O.D. of the hub.  


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#6 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 03:58 PM

Gears look good and it was great that you had a new hub handy just in case.  Those cracked hubs could be ground out where the crack is and bronzed or mig welded and then turned a little on the outside and have a piece of pipe pressed over the turned down section to strengthen them - would probably last a long time unless someone got really rough with them.  Once the pipe was pressed on it could be turned down to the correct O.D. of the hub.  

 

Yes, that would be a good way to repair one.  .....However, the key slot inside the hub is sometimes worn to almost twice the proper width.

 

The crack should not actually affect operation since that part is captive inside the bronze bushings.  ...When the hub is pinned to the drive collar, all the stress is against the inner key slot.  ....I believe that is what is causing the cracks.


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#7 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 05:16 PM

That is correct the key slot is damaged also, I guess it would be possible to have that fixed also but definitely can't just fix the crack and leave the slot as is.

After second thought, I decided to use another drive collar I have but it has a broken locking tab. I'll just redo the locking tab using JB weld as I did on a 850 I had. I did not want to use my NOS unit using an old key and not new bronze bushings.

I was surprised to notice that the 2 parts that make the drive collars are actually not pressed but they are screwed together.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1452377789.723870.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1452377804.173911.jpg
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#8 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 05:21 PM

Man, that black sludge is bad. It's amazing how that thing kept moving. I love it when the oils are changed out and see the difference in the cleanliness of the gearbox. It did look pretty nice after hopefully none of the gears or shafts got worn. Nice job on it so far.


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#9 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 06:49 PM

Yes it is nasty stuff, left I soaking for 2 days now and it's not dissolving what's at the bottom of the casing. I'm not sure what that stuff is, it is like tar. Everything looks in good working order though including the bearings. If diesel doesn't dissolve it I doubt gearbox oil will so I may just live with a "stained" gearbox bottom casing.

Today I cleaned the drive collar in order to rebuild the tab using JB weld, when I did this experiment on the 850 the rebuilt tab cracked after a few hours of running due to the fact that the 1" pin hole had no play on the rebuikt tab but it had the usual play on the hub side from normal wear, the tab ended up taking extra stress and cracked.

What I intend to do with this time is to make the hole in the tab slightly bigger just to allow for some play, I also decided to drill and insert 1/8 roll pins to give it extra strength. Tomorrow I'll redo the tab.


Edited by chubien, January 10, 2016 - 06:51 PM.

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#10 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 06:54 PM

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#11 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2016 - 08:38 PM

I keep jumping between Bolens related jobs, the 850 that I use for plowing is taking a lot of my time as it keeps dying on me and I have to keep fixing it.

I did get the collar finished off and it's now ready to be jnstalled, I used a different type of JB weld on this repair (original) and I'm hoping this will hold. I also made sure the 1" hole on the tab has a slight bit of play to allow the pin to have the usual movement without putting force on the tab.

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#12 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2016 - 08:39 PM

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#13 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2016 - 11:24 PM

Nice job on it,let us know how it holds up

#14 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2016 - 07:55 AM

I have the rear end of the tractor put back together, it looks like after adjusting the axel end play I can no longer roll the tractor when the pin is engaged, the axel end play must have been way out of adjustment.

The front tires go flat after a couple of days and that was next on the todo list, the tires aren't too weather cracked but leak around the beads. These rims are unique to the 1000 and 900 and I remembered I had a spare set of 900 rims in the shed, but they are in very poor shape.

I have been reading on and off about electrolysis, I decided to have a go at it. The 2 wheels were in similar shape so essentially these are the before and after pictures after 2 days in the tub and after 5 minutes of light brushing.

I still need to clean out my solution and the rods and I'll put them in for a few more hours. I'm quite happy with the results, no noise, no dust.

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#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2016 - 08:39 AM

Check out this bead sealer. I made sure it was a Canadian product so you could find it. The US equivalent is what I use for all bead leaks!






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