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So, went to start my MF 12 tonite and no start !


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#16 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 11:21 PM

I don't have a copy of the service manual.
Noel

there is also a service manual on here for them it's is tecumseh techniciano hand book. But the stator test ohms are wrong don't go by them it says 400 ohms it's good for the 10 amp and 400 it's bad , I think they made a typo . And it doesn't say 137 for the 20 amp system.
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#17 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 05:19 AM

I found the manual. Thanks.

Noel
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#18 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 06:00 AM

Does it have points?


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#19 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 07:40 AM

Those stator resistance numbers seem very high to me. That must indicate a bad stator. In order to supply high currents the stator resistance would normally be low. Typically you would have a low reading or an open circuit for a bad stator, unless some other component is in parallel with the stator. 

   If that wire is such a common issue I would just replace it, unless it's difficult to do. On a 40yr old engine the wiring inside the tin has been baked enough to be pretty well done! 


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#20 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 07:54 AM

I am not a fan of any small engine with electronic ignition.  Seems the manufacturer does not make them so they can be diagnosed without tearing the engine half apart and give little correct information. Then they quit making the replacement parts.  A points unit is a lot easier to work on and find out what is wrong.  Adjust the points right and a new capacitor and they will usually run.  Just my opinion.


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#21 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 07:57 AM

On The tractors before the harness connectors, stand on the flywheel side of the engine. There will be a plastic or Bakelite 1" piece on the left hand side (font) of the engine at about the 8 o'clock position.
That's your kill wire. Disconnect the one coming from under the motor (wire to the switch)
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#22 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 08:00 AM

I am not a fan of any small engine with electronic ignition.  Seems the manufacturer does not make them so they can be diagnosed without tearing the engine half apart and give little correct information. Then they quit making the replacement parts.  A points unit is a lot easier to work on and find out what is wrong.  Adjust the points right and a new capacitor and they will usually run.  Just my opinion.

 

I like the old points setups as well. The Kohler K series are what I am familiar with and I always seem to be able to get them running and find spare parts for them. Everything is there in front of you and there is no expensive, hard to source electronic box to make it hard to troubleshoot.


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#23 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 08:11 AM

I would say start with disconnecting the kill wire first. This will confirm or rule out a bad ignition switch.

Second, remove flywheel tin as Tecumseh Power suggested and check the wire coming up from the front of the flywheel that feeds the module. I also had one that was cracked and rubbing on tins. Also check the resistance coming from that wire, its not very common those stators burn out.

Also make sure the two little bolts holding the module on are good and tight. I have heard the module can lose ground there due to lose bolts. While you are in there, check the spacing between long pin on the flywheel and the tip of the module, should be .006-.010 on the long pin.

 

It is also possible the flywheel magnets have came lose and are stuck to stator. Not common, but does happen, I had to re-glue all mine on my OH160

 

You can click the link in my sig, I have links to Ed Stoller's webpage, he is like the guru of the SSI modules. You can also see some of the replacements I list.


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#24 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 08:48 AM

So, this morning I pushed the tractor out where I can work on it, figued I would try to start it one more time before I get into it and it started right up. Tryed it may times and it started, even snuck up on it and it still started. Must be some thing thou.
Thanks for all the information,
Noel
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#25 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 09:03 AM

Hope you get it figured out if it gives you trouble again check it out good like Tahoe and I said. I never had an ignition module work then not work, I'm sure it could happen. But I'd check the switch and that wire. You can change the wire but you have to unsolder it from the stator. It's eaiser to cut the bad spot out and fix them if that's the problem. Good luck. The resistance values are correct. The 470 does sound high but that's what it's supposed to be.
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#26 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 10:00 AM

I have a guess as to what happened, if I can explain it right.   So the engine would not start, I knew that it was full of gas, because just had filled it the day before, i don"t shut the fuel off after each use. It had been running great with no troubles. So, not a gas problem, so went directly to check for spark. So I removed the plug wire, put a screw driver in wire and held it 1/8" away from the spark plug tip , where wire goes on. No spark. Tried this a few times. No spark. So figured module was gone. Checked a few things, still no spark. Still in my mind I figured its still something simple. So I slept on it.  So today it starts right up, so modules don't fix them selfs over night. Took out the spark plug, some carbon on it but nothing bad. So I figure that a piece of carbon got in the gap of the plug, and while I was checking for spark it could not jump the plug gap and go to ground, if I had put the screw drive to the engine , I would of had spark because it could jump to ground. The carbon acted like an insulator and would not let the spark jump from the screw driver to the plug tip, because there was no path to ground. So, the carbon fell out and it started today. I hope I explained this the way I wanted to and that you all can figure out what I mean. 

 

Thanks again for the information and help,  Noel


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#27 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 11:41 AM

Glad that's all it was
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#28 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 11:45 AM

I think I would be checking for a bare wire somewhere!


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#29 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 12:15 PM

Glad it is running.

In the future, if checking spark at the plug, make sure you have a plug in boot and it is grounded to engine. Trying to get spark to just jump or not having plug wire grounded can burn up a module.


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#30 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 12:38 PM

Glad it is running.
In the future, if checking spark at the plug, make sure you have a plug in boot and it is grounded to engine. Trying to get spark to just jump or not having plug wire grounded can burn up a module.

:ditto: doesn't happen every time, but it can happen. Not worth the chance
An inline spark checker is best IMHO
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