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So, went to start my MF 12 tonite and no start !


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#1 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 08:16 PM

And found out , no spark. I have been waiting for for this problem to happen, because of all the stuff I hear about the ignition system on these engines. So, any ideas, thoughts. I am not a good electrical guy, but understand some stuff.

Thanks for any help, Noel.
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#2 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 08:22 PM

What engine is in that tractor?  Not familiar with MF but thought they had Tech engines.


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#3 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 08:45 PM

Hh120 Tecumseh. Cast iron engine.

Noel
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#4 637Yeoman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 08:45 PM

What engine is in that tractor?  Not familiar with MF but thought they had Tech engines.

Yeah they have teJUNKsehs, I dont know a whole lot about those engines.


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#5 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 08:50 PM

I have a 14 hp in my G12.  Runs OK.  Guess they all have a draw back one way or the other.  I still like the Briggs.


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#6 637Yeoman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 09:01 PM

I have a 14 hp in my G12.  Runs OK.  Guess they all have a draw back one way or the other.  I still like the Briggs.

Yeah I like the briggs too. The old Cast-Iron engines tuchumseh made are good but im not a fan of the aluminum ones though.


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#7 philips100 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 09:08 PM

Do you have a copy of the service manual? There is a section in it that will take you step by step on what to check in the ignition system. It does note  that you should check the ignition switch before any parts are replaced. I would also check the safety switches too. I have had problems with the ignition  switch and the safety switches in the past both keeping the ignition from firing.

 

Good luck.


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#8 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 09:15 PM

I don't have a copy of the service manual.

Noel
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#9 Jazz ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 09:28 PM

Not a clue,,usually don't see a problem like that until there is 3' of snow in the drive way.


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#10 classic ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 10:32 PM

I had a bad wire going to the solid state ignition on an HH120 in a 69 Sears Suburban. I fixed the wire and and the tractor ran fine for a month or so. I eventually got intermittent weak spark and changed out both parts of the solid state ignition. The tractor has been fine ever since. Just check the wire that runs along the side of the block to see if it is cracked or worn through. A crack in the wire insulation can be hard to see sometimes, but it will arc and short out the ignition.

Edited by classic, January 06, 2016 - 11:12 PM.

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#11 philips100 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 10:58 PM

I don't have a copy of the service manual.

Noel

Noel,

 

There is a copy of the service manual in the file section on this forum that you can download.


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#12 Tecumseh power ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 11:05 PM

Take the blower cover off, take the wire off the side of the ignition module that goes to the stator, check it with an ohm meter, put on lead on the wire you took off and the other to ground, should have 470 ohm s on a ten amp stator and 137 on a 20 amp stator. If it is showing an open circut the stator is bad, also check the wire that goes to the stator for cracks . The will Crack and arc off the cooling fins, . You may have to remove the flywheel to check it. There really is no good way to test the ignition module other than if all the other stuff is checked okay it probably is the module in which case you can fix you self with out buying the kit. Tahoe has a link that discribes the ones you can buy and the one s you can make
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#13 Tecumseh power ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 11:07 PM

I have had about 6 hh and oh tecumsehsk50 that people thought the ignition module was bad and it turned out to be the wire, when you check it check it good they break inside the casing too wiggle it all around with the meter on it. They break about two inches down from the terminal where it attaches to the ignition module and there break right at the clamp where they go into the stator
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#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 11:12 PM

Last one that gave me heart palpitations ended up a bad ignition switch.

Take the wire off the [M] terminal and see if spark comes back.
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#15 Tecumseh power ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 11:15 PM

There is also a 3 wire plug comming out of the blower housing, unplug it, that separates the engine from the tractor wiring , then check for spark, a 20 amp system has a plug with all three pins in a row. A 10 amp system has 3 pins but the middle pin is above the two others like a triangle that's how you tell the amps
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