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Grading The Driveway


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#1 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 07:09 PM

A couple of weeks ago I decided to put to use a 48'X12"X1/4" piece of curved steel plate that had been laying around the shop for years. It was originally intended to be used as a mid mount grader but was too tall and would have been a real chore to rip lengthwise. I opted instead to make it into a rear mount grooming blade with 1-1/2" scarifiers. Used it for the first time today and it worked great, just wish I'd gotten around to building it years ago.

 

Here is the finished product attached to the little 7hp Wheel Horse 704 after a few passes on the the driveway. When snow season (if we get any) is over it will go on the 416-8 for spring cleanup.

 

SAM_1505.JPG SAM_1508.JPG


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#2 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 07:16 PM

Looks nice and did a great job. Do you use a snow blower or plow for snow removal ?

Noel
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#3 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 07:36 PM

Looks nice and did a great job. Do you use a snow blower or plow for snow removal ?

Noel

Thanks! I've always used a 42 or 48 inch blade with 1/4X1-1/2" skids to keep it just off the gravel. Here is the snow rig.

SAM_0883.JPG


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#4 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 07:45 PM

Wow , that's nice. I wondered about a snow blower with the size of the gravel. From my experience, snowblowers and gravel don't like each other.

Noel

#5 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 07:50 PM

I graded my driveway. It got an F.
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#6 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 11:22 PM

I graded my driveway. It got an F.


Well if it does not improve its grade, its looking at summer school,
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#7 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 09:02 AM

I put fine shoulder rock (3/8") with a lot of fines on top of the rock in my drive.  Was shaped for drainage first then packed good with a gas asphalt packer.  Haven't touched it since and that was 15 years ago.  Use the snow thrower with no problems, shoes are set about 1.5" for grass work.


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#8 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 11:10 AM

Looks very stout, you did a nice job on it and the gravel :thumbs: Nice WH too  :thumbs: 


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#9 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 12:08 PM

Nice looking setup there...  What did you use for the teeth to dig in.???  I need something like that to take the center hump out of my drive...


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#10 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 12:24 PM

The trick to using a blower or even a blade on gravel is to first un it an inch or so above the surface.
ALLOW the snow to pack and freeze down the gravel so your workin with a semi hard surface.
The first snow we got this year was a problem because it had not gotten cold enough to freeze yet.
Now I have a good pack down and can skim over the snow.
I have not put gravel on my lane in the 5 yrs I have lived here. Like the original poster I have used a scarifier to pull gravel out of the pack in the spring. I need a couple truckloads and as chief fan said I will use Road Pack ( 3/8-1/2 inch limestone with the fines) it will pack down and hold the grade. years ago the county used washed river gravel, the frost heave would push it back up, but was like driving on marbles and pretty dangerous( not at all unusual to wind up in the bar pit if one was not careful.. most of it would push out of the track and end up in the ditch.

Edited by JD DANNELS, January 06, 2016 - 12:25 PM.

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#11 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 12:40 PM

I graded my driveway. It got an F.

 

Glad I'm not the only one.


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#12 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 05:06 PM

Nice looking setup there...  What did you use for the teeth to dig in.???  I need something like that to take the center hump out of my drive...

It's a combination of the weight -125#- and the 45 degree tooth angle that lets it dig in the way it does.

SAM_1514a.JPG


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#13 CanadianHobbyFarmer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 05:27 PM

I have an old hot water heater here that I plan to cut down and make both a back blade and a front blade out of. I will go through my dad's scrap pile first though, he may already have one. I pulled a Brinly cultivator out of there a few years ago. In fairness, he was not intending on selling it for scrap, it was more to the side with the other stuff that he plans to get around to finding a use for some day.

 

Jim


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#14 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 06:30 PM

It's a combination of the weight -125#- and the 45 degree tooth angle that lets it dig in the way it does.
attachicon.gifSAM_1514a.JPG

What is the diameter and length of the re-rod you used? I have used a spike tooth harrow, but the teeth are really too long and it is too light to really get down in the pack. Have had better luck with the spring tooth landscape rake.
I have been toying with building a land plane with a scarifier on the front.
Thing I can run angle iron with the v up between two channels so the scarifier would break up the pack and the gravel/ clay base would roll over the angles and level the gravel.
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#15 MolonLabe OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 06:58 PM

What is the diameter and length of the re-rod you used? I have used a spike tooth harrow, but the teeth are really too long and it is too light to really get down in the pack. Have had better luck with the spring tooth landscape rake.
I have been toying with building a land plane with a scarifier on the front.
Thing I can run angle iron with the v up between two channels so the scarifier would break up the pack and the gravel/ clay base would roll over the angles and level the gravel.

The rods are 2-1/2" long with 1-1/2" exposed, the top is welded to the 1" square post. If I had it to do over I would have cut the rods 4" long and extended them through the square post evenly to have 1-1/2" on either side so I could just flip it over for new scarifiers. The rod itself is #3 (3/8) grade 60 carbon steel.


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