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what oil to use in Loader and trans on 917-25191


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#16 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2016 - 11:26 PM

Ok, here is what I did.
First, accept that you have a little too much in there. It will have to vent out. Also, as it expands with heat, you will get some more venting oil.
I put an empty plastic jar over it for a while to keep me or others from getting an oil bath.

Also, Some of your problem is air. It will eventually settle out.

Now, the design issue with the original vent is this, straight pipe, hole at top. Burp... You get a shower.
I made an expansion chamber that allowed the oil to drain back in. Also, I made my hole on the side away from me and put a rubber skirt kilt on it.

Here is a rough cutaway drawing
Black is close to OEM, orange is 1/2" to 1" adapter, bored out to just slide over pipe and welded on, red is 1" union, green is 1" cap with an internal dome, blue are holes.
image.jpg

And here is what it looks like on the machine.
image.jpg
Doesn't solve the oil loss if over full, but it seems to handle expansion better and if it does burp, I don't get a shower.
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#17 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 08:42 AM

Can't help with the hydro, but you can easily drain rear end with lower plug. Then using hose and funnel, open fill plug on the left side under the fender and pour in 5 quarts of non detergent 30W or the axle oil suggested above. I suggest warming quarts up in a pan of hot water to help "thin' the oil.

Also remove one of the 4 bolts holding shifter in. This allows axle to vent and oil will pour easier without having to burp constantly.


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#18 sandhopper2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 10:35 AM

Thanks MH81 The original design looks like it needs help, your ideas look good My FEL does not have a level plug so you know when it is full and to allow it to vent as you are filling . If I drill a hole how would I keep the shavings out so it doesn't get in the tank Should this not have some kind of filter so dirt does not get in ?

#19 sandhopper2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 12:16 PM

The more I think about this FEL it needs to be modified I think the first step is to remove the upright that holds the fluid and add fill level plug that way I can flush it and not worry about shavings Second would be to do a mode for venting / expansion like MH81 suggests Then third would be add a spin on filter to the return line by the tank

#20 sandhopper2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 12:22 PM

also add a new drain plug to the bottom of the tank
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#21 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 01:16 PM

The level is by qty. if not that way, then by level to the elbow and vent the excess during use.

Keep in mind, this was a different era, oil was cheap and no one worried about it spilling. Also, these loaders weren't sold as a 50 year investment, just us nut jobs that keep them alive

#22 sandhopper2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 03:10 PM

I don't understand that the mfg did not add a vent to the system if it is needed and if you vent it don't you need to make sure that the vent has a filter I know that I don't need to change this very often , but clean fresh trans fluid would be best I think Like with cars they say oil changes now at 5K or more , I still do it a 3 months or 3K Guess us old guy's are stuck in our ways

#23 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 03:41 PM

There was a vent system the fill plug has a vent hole in it and the original would have had a porous bronze insert in the bottom of the plug, this is not an usual  way of doing it, that's the way my Power King load is an I have no problems, just don't overfill the system. Take a 1/4" or 3/8" wooden dowel say 10" long and mark it say 3" below the top and call that the full mark. As for changing oil after your frist refresh, totally unnecessary unless you contaminate the system, a filter in the return line is good. 



#24 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 04:06 PM

The cylinders have more oil in them extended than collapsed.  If you top the tank off with the cylinders extended the tank will overflow when they are collapsed.

 

That's part of the reason for the breather.  When you extend air needs to get into the tank, then back out when they're collapsed.


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#25 sandhopper2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2016 - 11:08 AM

I have read several post on a lot of forums about the location for the filter. The place that makes the most sence to me is on the suction line. The reason for it there is with the filter at the tank any contamination will come in there and why cycle the stuff through the system. On the suction side there should be no pressure and the only problem would be flow volume , the filter has to be large enough so there is no restriction. My thought would be to change the filter once a year and that would also be changing 80% of the fluid.

#26 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2016 - 02:33 PM

From what I read the suction line is not the best location the return line is favored and why do you think you need to change the fuild yearly? 

http://www.machinery...ydraulic-filter

 

 

http://www.machinery...ipment-mistakes


Edited by MNGB, January 11, 2016 - 02:35 PM.


#27 sandhopper2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2016 - 08:29 PM

With all the stuff there is to read on where to put a filter , suction or return line I think I will wait until I want to change oil again. The reason to do it once a year is my tractor lives outside , here in Southern Ca




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