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Improved tire chain "Latches"


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#1 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 07:33 PM

Hi guys, 

so while I was plowing snow, and much of it was in high gear, a couple of cross membered chains broke loose. Not sure what exactly to call them, but it's that funny looking link that connects the chain going across the tire to the one that goes around it, does that make sense? So anyway I took the chain off and brought them to work so I could use a MIG welder to tack them into one piece again. I don't have any pics of the broken pieces, as I forgot to bring my camera. Once I had them tacked back together I brought them home where I proceeded to put the chains back on. I bought these chains from Rick Show (blackjackjakexxix) as some dirt cheap ones, as they didn't have any latches on them and I was totally fine with that. And as I was putting them on I thought there had to be a better way to securely tighten these things. After some brainstorming I came up with these, I just took some chain, torched them apart and bent them at a 90*. After I had them mounted I tacked the open part of the links with our stick welder and I think they'll work. So far I'm happy with them. Let me know what kind of improvements I can make to them, as I just kinda threw it together.

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#2 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 07:51 PM

Looks like it would work.  I like the cross bars tied into every other side link rather than every 4th one though.  Lot more bit and less jerking.


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 07:51 PM

Looks like it should work!


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#4 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 08:15 PM

Looks like it would work.  I like the cross bars tied into every other side link rather than every 4th one though.  Lot more bit and less jerking.

 

Yeah, I'm not crazy about the bouncing, but Rick gave me a great deal and they work. Someday I'll get some like that, maybe when these totally fall apart, or when I get another GT :D

Looks like it should work!

Hopefully they will! I haven't done any plowing with them yet, but I'll update when I do get some!


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#5 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 08:44 PM

I have been using a bolt for tightening. Ever since the latch broke. I think it's easier to get them tighter this way.
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#6 1oldbuzz ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 04:25 AM

Another old trick is let the air out of the tire when putting chains on

once the chains are on then air the tire back up helps get them a little bit tighter


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#7 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 07:37 AM

Only thing I would worry about is the bolt getting sideways and digging into the tire. 

 

I broke one of my fastener links. I replaced it with one of these. 

 

 

 

Its only on one side of the chains, so I put it one link tight and then tighten the chains with the other good fastener link. Letting some air out helps some too. A couple of bungee cords across the wheels also helps.

 

 

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#8 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 08:13 AM

Pick up some old chains at estate or farm auctions.  They usually sell cheep and you can make then the size you want or to add the cross bars.  Tires are usually cold when I put the chains on so they just stand up like always if I let the air out.  I would rather have them a little on the loose side than fiddle string tight.



#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 08:44 AM

That should work fine. I like the bolt tensioner idea! I use small turnbuckles to tighten the chains on my compact tractor. Another tip I got from a tractor salesman was to deflate the tires, put the chains on as tight as you can get them then, then air up which will snug them up even tighter. I find it's a bit of a battle to get them tight on my particular setup and every bit helps. 


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#10 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 08:46 AM

I would have let some air out and then pumped the tire back up, but the PO filled them with something, not sure what, and he filled it to the top. I tried to let the air out the last time I put the chains on, using that same link as poncho62, but when I tried to take air out some fluid came out instead, and the valve was at the very top. 



#11 Jazz OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 09:05 AM

You should shop out a bit of proper hardware for your chains. Makes life simple.

We used a cam type fastener which after the chains were hung on wheel you gave each cam a twist with a pry bar and chains were snug against tires,,no bunny cords ever and this was 25 years ago. I hauled on winter roads seasonally and contractor ruled,,we had to run singles on drive axle as well as a set of singles on the trailer.. Winter road Contractor was exempt with those floatation tires...

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#12 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 09:32 AM

Tire chains ride better loose, and bite a little bit better on a turf tire, on ags they just barely work if they are skip linked. I've run tire chains all my life on tractors and they work best if not banjo string tight, they break easier when too tight. On forestry equipment they need to be just right!! Or they pick up stuff and get really dangerous.
We like multi-ring chains front, and ice chains on the rear, the ring chains need a differential on the axle or it will break stuff, and you can't steer worth a darn!

Edited by skyrydr2, January 01, 2016 - 09:34 AM.

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#13 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 02:44 PM

I only have tire chains on one garden tractor right now (not buying good gripper tires for it yet). I always get the chains tight and add a bungee, especially important if tire chain / fender clearance is limited. I was told buy a guy that said he had put tire chains on his early Case 200 series GT and never bothered to tension them up or put bungees on. End result was the cross chains looped up over the fender, and pulled it down into the tire. I use that guys story to make sure I chain up snugly. So far no issues. Two link chains do ride smoother than four link chains.
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#14 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 06:17 PM

Sounds like they are loaded with calcium.




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