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Economy tractor: year? and help with clutch issue (pics)

economy tractor clutch issue help

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35 replies to this topic

#31 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 07:20 PM

Just a note: Most Any manual for metal tractors is same or similar in most cases. PK's are like this with diff ideas of what model it is, what changes were made when and what was used at time if build for the whole line. They always keep collectors guessing on the "How" they were built. Improvements from one model or year never seemed to be made together, but as the old parts were used up, the new ones were then used and they kept going. Re-looking at the pictures, maybe those wheels are just Wheelbarrow or other ones bought to use on this tractor. Orig should have a seperate hub on each wheel that the outer steel wheel would bolt to. No seperate hubs on your wheels. Bearing sizes are common and many wheels will fit the axle spindles. Standard Economy and not JD size then. The picture from rear, just made axle look smaller, but just think it is camera angle or reception that at first makes it look smaller. One thing on hood that is not stock, is the rear straight up metal straps that are maybe welded to frame, then bolted on side of hood in back, lights mounted to same area. Wonder if maybe it had NO hood when new, some don't and was added later? OR.....maybe the dash was taken out at one time, never returned?  ON that engine, it is fine, leave it on/in if it runs. Wisconsin's are  hard to find and parts hard also.  Kohlers are good and were used later in production. BUT, the Briggs has a 1" shaft for the flywheel and others had 1-1/8" shafts. SO, you would have to find another flywheel to fit a diff engine. Those 1" flywheels are a little harder to find too, so keep it if correct and keep that Briggs. Earlier Briggs like used on these had odd coils and other systems and this newer one is much easier to get parts for and work on. Wiring differences when changing to diff engines also may be harder to do, so stay with what you have. Maybe I can scan a page or two from my books showing the clutch area. ON the trans, they are both the same, 3spds. The rear handle is diff to clear seat and the Input shaft on it is diff as not needing a clutch on that rear one. Rest is all the same. Long as they are open like that, pull the 4 bolts holding covers on and check for water and rust in those and refill with lube. Drain plug on bottoms.  8 oz of 80 90 or half STP additive works. DON'T fill to fill plug on side, that is a little too much. Just measure 8 oz. Take some good pix of it together BEFORE tear-down to recall where it all goes back. Throttle linkages, cables and wiring are especially important to get right. ON any wires, mark each one at terminal ends with mask tape and write on it, where it was attached to make it easier to put back. Many times I just leave the markings on them for later use if needed.


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#32 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 07:45 PM

Couple scans from my Big Red Book, study please.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Scan0001.jpg
  • Scan0002.jpg

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#33 Dave From Vermont OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2016 - 08:00 PM

One other thing, you do not have a high low range you have two identical three speed trannys on that tractor. This is a very desirable option.

David, Thank you for everything. Why is there two identical three speed trannys? and why are they very desirable? 



#34 Dave From Vermont OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2016 - 08:13 PM

Just a note: Most Any manual for metal tractors is same or similar in most cases. PK's are like this with diff ideas of what model it is, what changes were made when and what was used at time if build for the whole line. They always keep collectors guessing on the "How" they were built. Improvements from one model or year never seemed to be made together, but as the old parts were used up, the new ones were then used and they kept going. Re-looking at the pictures, maybe those wheels are just Wheelbarrow or other ones bought to use on this tractor. Orig should have a seperate hub on each wheel that the outer steel wheel would bolt to. No seperate hubs on your wheels. Bearing sizes are common and many wheels will fit the axle spindles. Standard Economy and not JD size then. The picture from rear, just made axle look smaller, but just think it is camera angle or reception that at first makes it look smaller. One thing on hood that is not stock, is the rear straight up metal straps that are maybe welded to frame, then bolted on side of hood in back, lights mounted to same area. Wonder if maybe it had NO hood when new, some don't and was added later? OR.....maybe the dash was taken out at one time, never returned?  ON that engine, it is fine, leave it on/in if it runs. Wisconsin's are  hard to find and parts hard also.  Kohlers are good and were used later in production. BUT, the Briggs has a 1" shaft for the flywheel and others had 1-1/8" shafts. SO, you would have to find another flywheel to fit a diff engine. Those 1" flywheels are a little harder to find too, so keep it if correct and keep that Briggs. Earlier Briggs like used on these had odd coils and other systems and this newer one is much easier to get parts for and work on. Wiring differences when changing to diff engines also may be harder to do, so stay with what you have. Maybe I can scan a page or two from my books showing the clutch area. ON the trans, they are both the same, 3spds. The rear handle is diff to clear seat and the Input shaft on it is diff as not needing a clutch on that rear one. Rest is all the same. Long as they are open like that, pull the 4 bolts holding covers on and check for water and rust in those and refill with lube. Drain plug on bottoms.  8 oz of 80 90 or half STP additive works. DON'T fill to fill plug on side, that is a little too much. Just measure 8 oz. Take some good pix of it together BEFORE tear-down to recall where it all goes back. Throttle linkages, cables and wiring are especially important to get right. ON any wires, mark each one at terminal ends with mask tape and write on it, where it was attached to make it easier to put back. Many times I just leave the markings on them for later use if needed.

fantastic detail here, thanks so much - This one will take a bit to digest. I will mark everything for reassembly. Im trying my darnedest to get this rolling in time for the next snowstorm


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#35 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2016 - 09:05 PM

David, Thank you for everything. Why is there two identical three speed trannys? and why are they very desirable?


My guess is it was simply cheaper to use that rather than have the expense of coming up with a hi/lo. The dual trannies actually give the tractor the ability to run a roto tiller or snow blower which is why people like to have it. If you don't run either of those, there really is no need for the dual trannies. Well, it does come in handy with a front loader too.

#36 oldiron1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2016 - 09:16 PM

Hi Dave, welcome to the world of tractor collecting!

What you have is a 1963 standard Economy with a replacement engine. I can tell by your hood cutouts that the original engine was a Briggs 23FB series. By 1956/1957 Economy badged tractors were offered with both 12" or smaller 8" front wheels. 1963 was the last year of the old style round hood as well.

Neat tractor; good luck with it!

Rob
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