Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Economy tractor: year? and help with clutch issue (pics)

economy tractor clutch issue help

  • Please log in to reply
35 replies to this topic

#16 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

Dave Central NY
  • Member
  • Member No: 27835
  • 106 Thanks
  • 92 posts
  • Location: Sherburne NY

Posted January 01, 2016 - 10:28 AM

Start by taking all the sheet metal off from around the engine so you can get a good hold on that engine to lift it off the frame. That's a lot newer engine than came on that tractor.  Remove the bolts that hold the bell housing to the tractor and the four bolts that hold the engine to the frame.  I always use an engine hoist to take the engine off the tractor. Once the engine is off you will be able to see your problem. Put something under the front transmission to support it a little when you take the engine off.    Something is busted inside the bell housing. Throw out bearing shot, clutch cross shaft broken, clutch fork worn out. You will see it when you get it apart. Amazon has the bearing the other parts are available on Ebay. Make shure you check for a pilot bearing inside the clutch where the transmission shaft goes in.     None of these pieces are very expensive.       Good Luck


  • MNGB and Dave From Vermont have said thanks

#17 Dave From Vermont OFFLINE  

Dave From Vermont
  • Member
  • Member No: 78130
  • 7 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: Woodstock, Vt

Posted January 01, 2016 - 10:34 AM

Hi Dave, welcome to the Power king group, from what I see looks like you have a 1963 Jim Dandy, as for the clutch problem you'll have to remove the engine from the tractor by removing the 8 or so bolts holding the bellhousing to the hogshead, the bellhjousing being the part that is attached to the transmission and the hogshead is attached to the engine and has the slots where you can see the pulley V's, be very carefull removing the clutch flywheel DO NOT USE a puller it is cast iron and will break, do a search here there are some good posts about removing the clutch and flywheel, you maybe luck and not even need to remove the flywheel it could be the throwout bearing or pedal return spring good luck

PS that's a nice looking JD and once you get it up and going your going to like it.

Yep I read the chart wrong or transposed the number anyway I agree its a 1963

MNGB, Thank you for this, perfect. I will let you know the progress.


  • MNGB said thank you

#18 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

Dave Central NY
  • Member
  • Member No: 27835
  • 106 Thanks
  • 92 posts
  • Location: Sherburne NY

Posted January 01, 2016 - 10:43 AM

Joe's Outdoor Power has the parts you will need listed. 

http://stores.ebay.c...d=p4634.c0.m322


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#19 Dave From Vermont OFFLINE  

Dave From Vermont
  • Member
  • Member No: 78130
  • 7 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: Woodstock, Vt

Posted January 01, 2016 - 05:08 PM

Hi Dave, welcome to the Power king group, from what I see looks like you have a 1963 Jim Dandy, as for the clutch problem you'll have to remove the engine from the tractor by removing the 8 or so bolts holding the bellhousing to the hogshead, the bellhjousing being the part that is attached to the transmission and the hogshead is attached to the engine and has the slots where you can see the pulley V's, be very carefull removing the clutch flywheel DO NOT USE a puller it is cast iron and will break, do a search here there are some good posts about removing the clutch and flywheel, you maybe luck and not even need to remove the flywheel it could be the throwout bearing or pedal return spring good luck

PS that's a nice looking JD and once you get it up and going your going to like it.

Yep I read the chart wrong or transposed the number anyway I agree its a 1963

How the heck did you figure that its a 1963 Jim Dandy? - your advice sheds a bunch of light on this for me, thank you, Im starting tonight.


  • MNGB said thank you

#20 Dave From Vermont OFFLINE  

Dave From Vermont
  • Member
  • Member No: 78130
  • 7 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: Woodstock, Vt

Posted January 01, 2016 - 05:23 PM

You have a 1963 Jim Dandy according to the serial number.  There are any number of things that could be wrong with the clutch.  It sounds like the problem in more with the fork and not so much the clutch itself.  The fork could be broke, the pins that hold the fork in place could have broke or the clutch flywheel may have slid out of place.  They have a habit of moving on the shaft unless you want to take them off.  Any way you look at it, you will have to split the tractor.  You will hate that job the first time but you will gain some good experience.  That little tractor is very worth the effort.  Looks like it's not the original engine which may be the root cause of the clutch acting weird.  That tractor for that year would have either a Wisconsin AENL, a briggs 23 CFB, a briggs 23 AFB or a briggs 23 DFB engine.  Welcome aboard.

Hi David and thanks for responding, much appreciated. I have a few questions if you don't mind: where is the "fork"? ( I told you I was a newbie - ha ha ), Im trying to find a manual that would help identify what everything is and where everything goes - I see that there are manuals here on the site but none of them are for a 1963 Jim Dandy - any advice as to where I could find a manual?, "looks like its not the original engine" - is it ok to keep this engine for at least the next 6 months? if your theory of the engine possibly causing the clutch to act funny; Is there a fix, besides changing the engine, that would help the clutch from stopping acting funny? of the engines you listed "Wisconsin AENL, a briggs 23 CFB, a briggs 23 AFB or a briggs 23 DFB engine." which would give me the most power for pushing lifting pulling but also give me some good speed to move around my property? currently this motor is giving me 3 speeds and a creeper gear with a high and low, best I can tell. Thanks for warm welcome



#21 MNGB ONLINE  

MNGB
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62466
  • 993 Thanks
  • 824 posts
  • Location: Minnesota

Posted January 01, 2016 - 05:25 PM

Hi Dave go to the manuals section here on site and download any and all the manuals you can I believe there's a limit of 3 per day go for it, as for your question about the yr made the Master Parts Manual has a SN date mfg page near the beginning good luck with your PK or you can join the yahoo group and contact Larry Goss and buy his PK thumb drive that has just about every manual ever printed he only charges $10.00 for it then come back here and we'll help you :dancingbanana:

 

Attached File  1963 Sales Brochure.pdf   10.11MB   41 downloads


Edited by MNGB, January 01, 2016 - 05:35 PM.

  • Dave From Vermont said thank you

#22 Dave From Vermont OFFLINE  

Dave From Vermont
  • Member
  • Member No: 78130
  • 7 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: Woodstock, Vt

Posted January 01, 2016 - 05:43 PM

I'm currently working on pretty much the same tractor right now except mine is a 63. You may have broken the pressure plate of the throw out bearing. Either way you still but both of those parts, but the pressure plate is a little spendy. Hopefully you can see where to split it from the attached pic.

attachicon.gif20151228_154325.jpg

WOW perfect, your pic helps a boat load. Still looking for a manual though. Thank you.



#23 Dave From Vermont OFFLINE  

Dave From Vermont
  • Member
  • Member No: 78130
  • 7 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: Woodstock, Vt

Posted January 01, 2016 - 05:44 PM

Yea it looks like it could be an aluminum B&S, looks much to short under the hood.

you are correct it is a B & S



#24 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

GTpicker01

    GT Addict

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 42575
  • 579 Thanks
  • 518 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted January 01, 2016 - 05:47 PM

I got all the manuals I have from the manuals section here on gttalk . I got my engine manual from the briggs and stratton website. There is a service manual on here that should tell you everything you want to know.
  • Dave From Vermont said thank you

#25 Dave From Vermont OFFLINE  

Dave From Vermont
  • Member
  • Member No: 78130
  • 7 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: Woodstock, Vt

Posted January 01, 2016 - 05:58 PM

Brain fart here for me, but guy's isn't the Jim Dandy frame that old suposed to be the single channel one??  Rear looks right with smaller bull gears like JD, but frame looks standard PK?? Jim Dandy went this frame later as a 1612??  Correct me if wrong please. Maybe is made from diff models of parts?

 

ON splitting: You remove the hood and metals there. Where dash bolts around bellhouse are same bolts as the clutch section. You pull those, and have to pull the engine mount bolts OR the angles they set on, (not reccomended) so you can pull the engine forward and the trans shaft will pull from clutch and flywheel. The clurch will stay on the flywheel and can be removed for most part from it w/out taking off the housing or the flywheel. Flywheels are hard to take off these at times, depending on how rusty and wether it's been off before and such things. You CAN'T take off the housing with-out removing fly-wheel, but can unbolt from engine block and pull back some to maybe get at the flywheel from back side to remove. There are a couple of set-screws in the pulley there. One goes into crank, other pushes the key down in slot tighter. They must be removed before attacking removal.

 

  If it worked one time and not another, I think the release fork, a spring, or even the ears on throw-out bearing might have broken or wore enough to have parts pass over them and slip out of alignment. First thing to do is get a manual for tractor, here or on other PK sites and they have blown-up knock down diagrams of all the parts. Not much info on HOW to fix them, but at least the parts diagrams and #'s and descriptions. Read thru postings here and look at pictures and on other sites to see how it is done and tips. There is a Power King forum on Yahoo Groups that I would join also and they have info and pix there also.

 

OK, just noticed NO dash on this older one. Still has the 8 bolts around the bellhousing, NOT the four for trans to take out and come apart. Later you can take whole assembly off the trans to study or repair more.

Good luck, take it slow and easy, don't force stuff, clean it up as you go. Parts are around, new and used. Epay has lots of items also. Good Luck!

a lot of great info, I'm cracking it tonight your's and few others advice combined has gotten me off and running. thanks!



#26 Glenn Ayers ONLINE  

Glenn Ayers
  • Member
  • Member No: 65363
  • 35 Thanks
  • 51 posts
  • Location: Bethany, WV

Posted January 01, 2016 - 06:12 PM

>>>Wisconsin AENL, a briggs 23 CFB, a briggs 23 AFB or a briggs 23 DFB engine." which would give me the most power for pushing lifting pulling but also give me some good speed to move around my property?<<<

Most engines have the same "Governed Speed (3600 rpm) this will = the same ground speed with your tractor's gear train.

Horsepower doesn't mean much in these tractors ... only in the higher gears.   A one horsepower engine would still spin the tires against a load in low- low gear.

If the flywheel/pulleys haven't slipped forward on your crankshaft .. & your engine runs good ... leave it alone.

As already said .... your clutch problem is either the forks ... the pressure plate fingers ... the throwout bearing ... or the clutch lining.   All very fixable.

 

>>>currently this motor is giving me 3 speeds and a creeper gear with a high and low, best I can tell. <<<

 

Your Tractor has the Tandem Transmissions .     They both should have 3 speeds forward & one reverse.  

 

forward left = reverse

rearward left = first

forward right = second

rearward right = third

 

Different gear combinations = different ground speeds or Pulling power

Both in "Reverse" will make the tractor go forward .... think about it ....


  • Dave From Vermont said thank you

#27 Dave From Vermont OFFLINE  

Dave From Vermont
  • Member
  • Member No: 78130
  • 7 Thanks
  • 11 posts
  • Location: Woodstock, Vt

Posted January 01, 2016 - 06:37 PM

Ok, after studying the pics a bit better, I don't think we have a Jim Dandy at all.  The dead give away is the manual lift.  That's the bigger one from the Power King model.  I know there were some of the larger tractors made with 8" front wheels but I think they were few and far between.  Think Country Squire for example.  This is not a CS because the tag would have Country Squire on it.  Unfortunately, record keeping does not afford us a good way to go about the task of finding how many were built like this.  As far as the smaller final drives, well, I'm not sure sure of thet either.  It's hard to tell without a comparison and the picture may just give that illusion.  There are still some things that are somewhat baffling but I've been out of them for a few years now and have forgotten more than I ever learned.

David Which manuals will help me then? what do I call this in general Terms? an Economy? or a PowerKing? - if its not a Jim Dandy? 



#28 David Brown OFFLINE  

David Brown

    I said I work on them. I never said I fix them!

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8570
  • 4,217 Thanks
  • 2,314 posts

Posted January 01, 2016 - 06:48 PM

David Which manuals will help me then? what do I call this in general Terms? an Economy? or a PowerKing? - if its not a Jim Dandy?

Basically you have an Economy tractor. The small front wheels tricked me into thinking it was a Jim Dandy but it seems to be the larger model. At this period of time they had two models. Power King and Jim Dandy, both are Economy tractors. I can't for the life of me remember when the Jim Dandy came on the scene but I believe it would have been 1959 or somewhere handy to that. Thanks to GL for noticing that frame.

The fork that I refer to is the shifter fork which is on the clutch pedal shaft on the inside. It presses the throw out bearing so you can shift gears. If that is bent or broken, you'll not be able to shift. Same with the pins that hold the fork in place. If either is broke, your pedal will act as you describe. Same with the clutch flywheel. They move sometimes so the pressure isn't there to disengage the clutch.

The manuals are printed per serial number so you would just have to look for the right one.

Edited by David Brown, January 01, 2016 - 06:50 PM.

  • Dave From Vermont said thank you

#29 David Brown OFFLINE  

David Brown

    I said I work on them. I never said I fix them!

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8570
  • 4,217 Thanks
  • 2,314 posts

Posted January 01, 2016 - 06:55 PM

One other thing, you do not have a high low range you have two identical three speed trannys on that tractor. This is a very desirable option.
  • Dave From Vermont said thank you

#30 MNGB ONLINE  

MNGB
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62466
  • 993 Thanks
  • 824 posts
  • Location: Minnesota

Posted January 01, 2016 - 06:55 PM

Hi Dave go to the manuals section and download the 1964 owners manual the 63 & 64 are the same so anything you find there for 63 64 you can use the 64 owners manual has a illustrated break down of the clutch on the first few pages







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: economy tractor, clutch issue, help

Top