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Need help with fixing up a Bolens 1050.


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#91 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2011 - 08:45 PM

I dont remember if the manual states this but, make sure you make the adjustments with the wheels off the ground

#92 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2011 - 09:04 PM

The bulletin does state this and I do have the back end off the ground. I currently still have it on jack stands. One last thing is part 31 on the illustration that is the breather. I pulled out what looked like a bundle of copper. Is this what the breather is? I guess I am not used to seeing something like this and with the spacer not put on, this has got me wondering. I will try and get pics up tomorrow of it.

#93 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2011 - 09:53 PM

Yes, #31 is the breather.
I'm not 100% certain , but I do think It is made out of copper

#94 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2011 - 09:28 AM

I got the spacers in last night. Thanks! I owe you a beer or 3.

#95 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2011 - 03:53 PM

I got the spacers in last night. Thanks! I owe you a beer or 3.


Glad to hear they made it :thumbs:

#96 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2011 - 05:39 PM

Does anyone know how long the rope would be for the pull start?

#97 Lovintractorin OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2011 - 05:58 PM

Does anyone know how long the rope would be for the pull start?


I don't know what the original length was but I just made one that wraps around the pulley about twice. I works good. I have to pull with one hand and mess with the choke with the other hand so it is just the right length to completely get the rope off the pulley in a one arm's length. The nice thing about this type of rope starters is that if it's to short just cut another or too long, trim a little off. If it would help I could measure the length of mine.
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#98 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2011 - 10:14 AM

I don't know what the original length was but I just made one that wraps around the pulley about twice. I works good. I have to pull with one hand and mess with the choke with the other hand so it is just the right length to completely get the rope off the pulley in a one arm's length. The nice thing about this type of rope starters is that if it's to short just cut another or too long, trim a little off. If it would help I could measure the length of mine.


Thanks! I think I can go from there. I will make it a little longer, then cut it shorter if I need to.

Also, What is suggested for the no load rpm to be set at for the governor? I could not find an answer in the 1050 service manual or the TRA-10D repair manual as to what is should be set at, only a rand or rpms in the the engine repair manual. I think it might depend on what I would be using it for, so I will be using the mower deck and the snow blower.

Edited by mark843, December 08, 2011 - 04:01 PM.


#99 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2011 - 05:05 PM

Thanks! I think I can go from there. I will make it a little longer, then cut it shorter if I need to.

Also, What is suggested for the no load rpm to be set at for the governor? I could not find an answer in the 1050 service manual or the TRA-10D repair manual as to what is should be set at, only a rand or rpms in the the engine repair manual. I think it might depend on what I would be using it for, so I will be using the mower deck and the snow blower.


If your using the snow-caster and mower deck, you will be wanting to run at full throttle

I'm not sure on the load specifics

Edited by Bolens 1000, December 08, 2011 - 05:15 PM.


#100 Lovintractorin OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2011 - 05:51 PM

I believe these engines max throttle no load are supposed to be somewhere around 3600 rpm. In my Briggs manual it says correct opporating range is 1800 to 3600 rpm(no load). Standard speed setting(no load) is 2900 rpm and an idle speed of 1200 rpm. This is for a 23FB Briggs engine, but these should be near what the older air cooled engines tick at.
Hope it helps.

#101 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2011 - 06:00 PM

I believe these engines max throttle no load are supposed to be somewhere around 3600 rpm. In my Briggs manual it says correct opporating range is 1800 to 3600 rpm(no load). Standard speed setting(no load) is 2900 rpm and an idle speed of 1200 rpm. This is for a 23FB Briggs engine, but these should be near what the older air cooled engines tick at.
Hope it helps.


:ditto:

The max RPM's for the wisconsin was rated at 3600RPM



I guess I'm a little confused about your original question.... Are you asking what is a good RPM for idling?

#102 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2011 - 09:35 PM

Yes. What is a good idle speed and what hole do I use for the govoner spring? It was origonally on the 3rd from the top hole but the engine manual say the 5th is for 3600 rpm.

I guess this is the confusing part.

#103 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2011 - 09:59 PM

Yes. What is a good idle speed and what hole do I use for the govoner spring? It was origonally on the 3rd from the top hole but the engine manual say the 5th is for 3600 rpm.

I guess this is the confusing part.


On most of mine I have the governor spring set 3 holes up from the bottom.


The farther down you move the spring the faster the speed you will obtain
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#104 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2011 - 02:47 PM

On most of mine I have the governor spring set 3 holes up from the bottom.


The farther down you move the spring the faster the speed you will obtain


Thanks. I will try it on 5 instead of 3. I don't have a tachometer so I guess I will have to adjust it when I can get one.

I spent about 3 hours working on it last night. I wanted to get it ready for the snow, but I am not seeing too much outside right now. I got everything pretty much put back together. The gear box is topped off with oil and I put the covers back on and also set the axle play. I set the point following the above link and it took me 3 times, but the multimeter shorts exactly when the line reaches the tip of the arrow so it should be good to go. I also adjusted the governor too. I hooked up the throttle and choke cables, put the spacers in for the long head bolt, installed the spark plug, put in engine oil and hooked up the hood lever.

I think the only things I need to do is hook up the battery and put gas in it then turn the key. I hope it run well after all this work. I'm sure there will be some adjusting I will need to do, but I hope it's not much. I also have to finish greasing some things up.

I still need to do a few things like replace a head light, replace the brake lining for the parking brake, and hookup the spring assist kit, and put the cab back on. but I those I can do here and there.

I will replace the gear oil in the snow blower tonight and if everything starts and runs well, I will hook up the blower.

How do you guys keep track of hours on these? Just a notebook and a ball park amount of time you have run it?

#105 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2011 - 04:22 PM

Thanks. I will try it on 5 instead of 3. I don't have a tachometer so I guess I will have to adjust it when I can get one.

I spent about 3 hours working on it last night. I wanted to get it ready for the snow, but I am not seeing too much outside right now.

We were supposed to get at least 3-6'' here today and we got nothing! The weather guessers were wrong again LOL
I got everything pretty much put back together. The gear box is topped off with oil and I put the covers back on and also set the axle play. I set the point following the above link and it took me 3 times, but the multimeter shorts exactly when the line reaches the tip of the arrow so it should be good to go. I also adjusted the governor too. I hooked up the throttle and choke cables, put the spacers in for the long head bolt, installed the spark plug, put in engine oil and hooked up the hood lever.

I think the only things I need to do is hook up the battery and put gas in it then turn the key. I hope it run well after all this work. I'm sure there will be some adjusting I will need to do, but I hope it's not much. I also have to finish greasing some things up.

I still need to do a few things like replace a head light, replace the brake lining for the parking brake, and hookup the spring assist kit, and put the cab back on. but I those I can do here and there.

I will replace the gear oil in the snow blower tonight and if everything starts and runs well, I will hook up the blower.



How do you guys keep track of hours on these? Just a notebook and a ball park amount of time you have run it?

I keep a note book with sections for each tractor I have. I usually write down what day the oil change was made then just estimate when the 50 hours is up. I change the oil about 2x each year even if I dont use them for 50 hours, I figure I'd rather spend $7 for a couple quarts of oil instead of taking a chance.
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