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Need help with fixing up a Bolens 1050.


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#76 Bolens1054 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2011 - 07:46 PM

Here another place to get parts that are hard to find just have Bolens part number when you call .www.farmersvilleequipment.com
Its in Lancaster Pa Not to far away.
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#77 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2011 - 08:19 PM

Here another place to get parts that are hard to find just have Bolens part number when you call .www.farmersvilleequipment.com
Its in Lancaster Pa Not to far away.


They have closed and will be auction off

#78 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2011 - 10:19 PM

They have closed and will be auction off



im glad i bought all the rare stuff i wanted. he has some good stuff left. are you going to this auction?

#79 Bolens1054 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2011 - 09:02 PM

Yes But as far as i understand he may still do some Bolens parts he is auctioning all of the oliver equipment. I hope he does the guys a class act its a family business you have to hate to see things like this.

Edited by Bolens1054, December 01, 2011 - 09:08 PM.


#80 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2011 - 10:01 AM

My Dad called last night and said he is coming up this weekend with the 850. I will have to make some room in the garage tonight to make sure I can get it in there. I will get some pictures posted of it this weekend.

I know the gear box calls for 90w and so do the gear boxes on the mower deck and blower also. After going to 2 auto part stores and Tractor supply, only Tractor supply had straight 90w, but in a 2 gallon container for Ford tractors. Do you guys hunt down straight 90w or would 85-90 or even 80-90 be OK? Also, about how much gear oil goes into the gear boxes on the mower deck and blower?

#81 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2011 - 06:01 PM

My Dad called last night and said he is coming up this weekend with the 850. I will have to make some room in the garage tonight to make sure I can get it in there. I will get some pictures posted of it this weekend.

I know the gear box calls for 90w and so do the gear boxes on the mower deck and blower also. After going to 2 auto part stores and Tractor supply, only Tractor supply had straight 90w, but in a 2 gallon container for Ford tractors. Do you guys hunt down straight 90w or would 85-90 or even 80-90 be OK? Also, about how much gear oil goes into the gear boxes on the mower deck and blower?


I know the NAPA in the town of hamburg has the gallon jugs of 90wt mineral gear oil.


The transmissions take about 1/2 a gallon.

#82 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2011 - 07:06 PM

i put 80-90 in all my gear boxs and never had a problem

#83 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2011 - 09:47 AM

I know the gear box calls for 90w and so do the gear boxes on the mower deck and blower also. After going to 2 auto part stores and Tractor supply, only Tractor supply had straight 90w, but in a 2 gallon container for Ford tractors. Do you guys hunt down straight 90w or would 85-90 or even 80-90 be OK? Also, about how much gear oil goes into the gear boxes on the mower deck and blower?


Be Careful with gear lube selection!

Most of the higher spec gear lubes contain additives which will attack yellow (brass, bronze) metals. ....The older GL-1 spec of the lube is safe, while the GL-4 & GL-5 lubes are usually harmful. (Almost all gearlubes have the GL spec somewhere on the label.)

The Tractory Supply lube for older Ford tractors is probably the GL-1 rating and is desirable for your Bolens.

For your Bolens, the gearboxes on the mower deck and snowblower only hold approximately 1 pint each. ....(The filler plug hole is also the proper lube level when the attachment is in its mounting position.) .....The gearboxes on the mower deck and snowblower attachments do not have any yellow metals in them, so any of the gear lubes (SAE90, 85-90, 80-90) will be satisfactory.

However, the transaxles on the Bolens tube frames use brass/bronze bushings and a bronze differential gear, which may be harmed by the GL-4 & GL-5 spec gear lubes. .....I'd suggest the TSC 90wt gear lube for older Ford tractors.
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#84 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2011 - 05:49 PM

The GL4/5 oils are only harmful if you get the oil over 300 degrees. I have been running GL4/5 in my TroyBilt for several years with no problem, it has the bronze gear in the back.

GL1 has been retired for years, the spec on it was retired back in the 90's.

#85 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2011 - 06:12 PM

The GL4/5 oils are only harmful if you get the oil over 300 degrees.


I respectfully disagree. .....I have experienced it firsthand on slow-speed, water cooled, reduction gear boxes.

Perhaps the alloy contents is a factor?

#86 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2011 - 07:30 PM

I respectfully disagree. .....I have experienced it firsthand on slow-speed, water cooled, reduction gear boxes.

Perhaps the alloy contents is a factor?


If the oil is rated GL4/5 it is ok to use, If it is rated GL5 only it is desinged for very heavy use. I did some research on this a few years ago. If the gearcas gets over 300 degrees you will have problems with it.

#87 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2011 - 05:01 PM

I picked up the 90w mineral oil from tractor supply. It was GL1 so I figured I can't really go wrong with it. It was $20 so it was less expensive then the other oils for how much I got. I got the axle put back together but I am not sure how tight I should make the left side castle nut. If I hand tighten it and you a wrench to tighten it a little more, then with the back off the ground, I can't spin the axle by my hand like I could before. Is this too much and binding up the axle? If I back it off a slot or two on the castle nut then I can spin the axle by hand but I can feel and hear a little clicking. What is the best and proper tightness?

After that I took off the bottom gear box cover and the top cover to put new seals on it. First, a part dropped out the gear box that was laying on the bottom cover.:confuse: This is making me nervous and I can't see any place it would go and looking at the parts diagram is not helping. Pic of the part is below.

DSCN1858.jpg

It looks like some kind of spacer maybe.:confuse: Or did the person who had this open last drop something in the gear box?

After some looking around in the gear box, I saw some of the teeth are chipped on some gears. I think this was from the clutch not working right and missing a friction disk. I know I was grinding the gears a few times as stepping on the clutch didn't seem to let me shift sometimes. I will have to rebuild this gear box, or maybe have someone else do it but I might wait until spring. How hard is it to rebuild it myself?Any special tools needed?

DSCN1867.jpg

Any suggestions on the mystery part and opinions if this gearbox will make it through the winter? Also, does anyone know of a reputable place that can rebuild this gear box around Buffalo if I decide not to do it myself?

The Bolens my Dad brought up was not an 850 like I thought. It is a 600. It came with a deck but the ends are rotted out. The 600 does not run but it came with a spare engine. If I had the time and money it would be a nice tractor to rebuild as I really like the style and size. If anyone wants to make me an offer for it feel free. I am willing to take some 1050 parts or accessories instead of cash too. My Dad also had the air cleaner for the 1050 he brought up last weekend too. Here is a pic of the 600.

DSCN1870.jpg

I will try and get more pics of the 600 next week.

One last thing. I wanted to adjust the points but I am not sure how. I watched some youtube videos, but is there anything place with info for the TRA-10D? Ok I found the manual but it is still a bit foreign to me. Where do I put the gauge for the gap and where an I get a proper light for this test?

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Edited by mark843, December 04, 2011 - 05:33 PM.


#88 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2011 - 05:41 PM

I picked up the 90w mineral oil from tractor supply. It was GL1 so I figured I can't really go wrong with it. It was $20 so it was less expensive then the other oils for how much I got. I got the axle put back together but I am not sure how tight I should make the left side castle nut. If I hand tighten it and you a wrench to tighten it a little more, then with the back off the ground, I can't spin the axle by my hand like I could before. Is this too much and binding up the axle? If I back it off a slot or two on the castle nut then I can spin the axle by hand but I can feel and hear a little clicking. What is the best and proper tightness?

Here is a 2 page PDF on adjusting the rear axle end play. It is critical that you have this adjusted the proper way to avoid ruining your differential gears.
Bolens Rear-Axle End Play Adjustment - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums

After that I took off the bottom gear box cover and the top cover to put new seals on it. First, a part dropped out the gear box that was laying on the bottom cover.:confuse: This is making me nervous and I can't see any place it would go and looking at the parts diagram is not helping. Pic of the part is below.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]25889[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]25895[/ATTACH]

I will have to think on this a bit more as I cant figure out where that part went at the moment, possibly looks like a seal for one of the shifting gears...

It looks like some kind of spacer maybe.:confuse: Or did the person who had this open last drop something in the gear box?

After some looking around in the gear box, I saw some of the teeth are chipped on some gears. I think this was from the clutch not working right and missing a friction disk. I know I was grinding the gears a few times as stepping on the clutch didn't seem to let me shift sometimes. I will have to rebuild this gear box, or maybe have someone else do it but I might wait until spring. How hard is it to rebuild it myself?Any special tools needed?

It is very common for the gears to be a bit worn due to hasty shifting over the years and not having the clutch/brake adjusted right. Usually you see this more on the 3 speed transmissions, but it does occur on the 6 speeds as well. It is possible to replace the main shifting gears without any special tools, I have done it once before . The gears do not look that bad and I would not bother replacing them as you still have many more years to get out of them

[ATTACH=CONFIG]25890[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]25892[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]25893[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]25894[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]25896[/ATTACH]

Any suggestions on the mystery part and opinions if this gearbox will make it through the winter? Also, does anyone know of a reputable place that can rebuild this gear box around Buffalo if I decide not to do it myself?

The Bolens my Dad brought up was not an 850 like I thought. It is a 600. It came with a deck but the ends are rotted out. The 600 does not run but it came with a spare engine. If I had the time and money it would be a nice tractor to rebuild as I really like the style and size. If anyone wants to make me an offer for it feel free. I am willing to take some 1050 parts or accessories instead of cash too. My Dad also had the air cleaner for the 1050 he brought up last weekend too. Here is a pic of the 600.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]25891[/ATTACH]

I will try and get more pics of the 600 next week.

One last thing. I wanted to adjust the points but I am not sure how. I watched some youtube videos, but is there anything place with info for the TRA-10D? Ok I found the manual but it is still a bit foreign to me. Where do I put the gauge for the gap and where an I get a proper light for this test?

...

#89 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2011 - 06:00 PM

The only thing I can think of is the part could be spacer #96 in the parts list.
Other than that It may be something that got dropped in the transmission while it was apart.
Untitled.jpg



Here is a good thread on how to set the points:

http://gardentractor...6101/#post61689

That 600 looks to be in decent shape. It is either a 1964 or 1965 model.

Did the spacers come in the mail yet?
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#90 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2011 - 08:39 PM

That was the part! :dancingbanana: I was kinda thinking the same thing after looking at the illustration, which the one above is much sharper than the one I have. The snap ring was a bit of a pain to get it off and back on, but everything is back where it should be. I guess the last person who rebuilt this gear box was careless and didn't know they dropped it, or they did know and didn't want to take the bottom cover back off to get the part. :mad2:

Thanks for the link to that thread. It clears it up a bit and I never thought of using my multimeter for this, if I can find it lol. I think I have a test light in my computer tool kit that might work also.

The 600 does look to be decent, but I just don't have the time to restore it like I would want to do if I kept it. I don't know how much work it would take to get it running, what is missing etc either. It's not really rusty or anything. NJ must have nicer weather than us. :D

The spacer did not show up yet. I'm sure it should be here tomorrow. I will let you know when it does.

After rereading the end play bulletin, I guess if I can't rock the wheels, then the left caslte nut is too tight. I will have to back it off a little.




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