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Need help with fixing up a Bolens 1050.


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#61 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2011 - 12:58 PM

Sounds like it is coming along.

Looks like you're another Bolens owner near my neck of the woods.


Yes. I am surprised how many members are in the area, but it makes for some competition when things come up on Craigslist. :smile1:

#62 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2011 - 01:25 PM

On Saturday I got the 1050 moved from my parents house to my house. :D It will give me more time to work on the tractor, but I don't have all my tools at my house or a work bench. I will just have to improvise. The best part is having a garage to work in and not have to worry about the weather. :rocker:

When we went to move the tractor I could not get the free wheeling pin out. It was held in with some bailing wire instead of the clip, but even after cutting it off the ping just would not come out. We were able to push it in neutral but I don't like having to do that.

Anyways, on Sunday I was able top work on it some more and I think I have the clutch and brake plate adjusted after flipping the front bearing. I would post some pictures but I found my camera in a pool of water the other day so I am letting it dry out to see if it works. :rolleyes:

I am a bit confused as to how the lift lever gets bolted back together. I see the 1/2"x2" bolt, but I don't recall it having a nut when I took it off. I do see a nut in the parts diagram though. It just seems the bolt gets bolted through the tool lift and the right foot rest presses against the bolt to keep everything from being sloppy. :confuse: This does not seem right to me so can some one explain how it all goes together or post some detailed pic please?

I also need to replace the main brake. How do I go about replacing the pad? It looks like it gets riveted on so What kind of tool do I need or is there a way to rivet it without having to get a tool?

I will see if the camera is working tonight and try and get some pics if it is.

#63 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2011 - 04:17 PM

... When we went to move the tractor I could not get the free wheeling pin out. It was held in with some bailing wire instead of the clip, but even after cutting it off the ping just would not come out. We were able to push it in neutral but I don't like having to do that. ...


It's not unusual for those freewheeling pins to be a bit recalcitrant. Especially if they haven't been moved for a long time.

I had the same problem with my 800. What I eventually ended up doing was spraying it with PBBlaster, let it soak for a day, then jacked up the right side, removed the rear wheel, and then drove the pin out using a large bolt that I smacked with a hammer. After I got it out I made sure to lube the pin and hole.

#64 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2011 - 05:34 AM

It's not unusual for those freewheeling pins to be a bit recalcitrant. Especially if they haven't been moved for a long time.

I had the same problem with my 800. What I eventually ended up doing was spraying it with PBBlaster, let it soak for a day, then jacked up the right side, removed the rear wheel, and then drove the pin out using a large bolt that I smacked with a hammer. After I got it out I made sure to lube the pin and hole.


:ditto:

This is a pretty common problem, as oldbuzzard mentioned I'd just let it soak with some penetrating oil.
Sometimes you can put a rod through the other side through the tire rim and tap it out with a hammer.

As for the brakes I usually cut the old ones off carefully a Hacksaw. New linings can be bought at sams Bolens and he includes the rivets


I'll see if I have any pictures of the foot rest/ Liftlever area

#65 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2011 - 06:53 AM

When we went to move the tractor I could not get the free wheeling pin out. As others have already said, use lots of penetrant & patience. .....If you whack it too hard with a hammer, you can break the casting holding the pin.

I prefer to try to turn the pin (after letting a penetrant work) using a pipe wrench or visegrips, as there is less chance to break the casting.

Once you get the pin free, you can pull the roll pin which retains the pin, so that the pin & casting can be cleaned of all rust. ....When re-installing the roll pin, do not drive it in too far, or it will rub on the axle shaft. .....Use grease to lubricate the pin & casting once everything is clean.

We were able to push it in neutral but I don't like having to do that. If you can do that, the rear axle end play probably needs to be adjusted. .....A link to the procedure is provided below in this response.

I am a bit confused as to how the lift lever gets bolted back together. I see the 1/2"x2" bolt, but I don't recall it having a nut when I took it off. I do see a nut in the parts diagram though. It just seems the bolt gets bolted through the tool lift and the right foot rest presses against the bolt to keep everything from being sloppy. :confuse: This does not seem right to me so can some one explain how it all goes together or post some detailed pic please? This is off the top of my head, as I haven't worked on one of these in a long time, but I believe the bolt screwed into the threaded portion of the frame. ....When tightened, the nut acts as a jam nut to prevent the bolt from unscrewing as the lift is used.

I also need to replace the main brake. How do I go about replacing the pad? It looks like it gets riveted on so What kind of tool do I need or is there a way to rivet it without having to get a tool? SIMPLE JOB! .....I grind (or file) the rivets flush with the bracket, then punch them out with a pin punch. .....To install the new pad, clamp a flat-nosed punch, a bolt, or a piece of rod in a vise. ....The diameter should be close to the large diameter of the rivet head.

Put the new rivet through the large hole of the lining and into the bracket. .....Hold this together with one hand, putting the head of the rivet over the tool clamped in the vise. .....Now, with your other hand, you can peen the end of the rivet sticking through the brake shoe bracket. .....Just be sure you attach the lining to the correct side of the bracket, and that the rivets are peened enough that the lining is not loose on the bracket.


Link to Rear axle end-play adjustment:

Bolens Rear-Axle End Play Adjustment - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums
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#66 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2011 - 08:24 PM

Attached is pictures of what I have so far.

I have to go to the hardware store to get some more pins, nuts and bolts. I am also trying to find an exhaust pipe but I have not had any luck getting one.

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#67 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2011 - 03:28 PM

I did not get as far as I wanted this weekend. After figuring out the lift handle and taking part of the engine back apart to install the new (to me) the exhaust pipe, I broke a bolt on the rear engine cover. So after getting new bolts, cleaning the gasket up and sealing it all back up. It ate up most of the afternoon. I also went to mount the engine and lost a nut for mounting bolts.

I have since decided that I will take the engine back off and replace the head bolts as they are probably old and stretched and I think the price of new bolts is cheap insurance.

I know that the one long bolt the bolts through the top of the heat shield uses a spacer. The spacer that was used when I took it apart was too short and someone made the difference up by stacking washers. I don't think this is ideal when this bolt is to be used for the head. Does anyone know what length the spacer might be? I plan on measuring the washers and the spacer together but I an not sure if enough washers were used to gain the correct space.

#68 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2011 - 05:57 AM

I will see if I have any extra spacers laying around and get some dimensions for you.
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#69 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2011 - 12:01 PM

After searching for a few months for a mower deck I found a 1050 with deck in NJ. I had my Dad drive over and look at it for me and the deal was struck. I got the 1050 with deck for $200. The best part is they guy threw in a 850 also! :bounce: The 1050 does run rough and is missing some parts, most notably the air cleaner assembly. My Dad will be picking up the 850 soon and it will make it's way up to my house the next time my Dad comes up in a few weeks.

My Dad dropped of the 1050 and deck this past weekend and the deck is in decent condition. It looks like the bearings were replaced recently and and everything turns freely. My biggest concern is the gear box. We tipped the deck on it's side to carry it and I noticed that the oil leaked out of the air vent and it was a milk shake. It looks like I will have open the box and clean and inspect everything. The other thing is the belt cover. It looks like the bolts might be rusted on and I might be braking a few along with part of the cover being rotted.
I think the best part of getting the 1050 this weekend was when my Dad started the 1050 to get it off his pickup truck, my 13 mo daughter had a big smile on her face and started bouncing in my arms. :bounce: She was pretty excited. I put her down then got on the 1050 to back it off the truck and when I got it on the ground my daughter ran over to my with her arms up. I scooped her up and she rode on my lap while I parked it in the garage. :D

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This past Sunday I got almost done with getting my 1050 back together. I got the engine mounted and most everything hooked up and greased. I also took some time to tighten some bolts on the snow blower. After adjusting the rear end axle play I wanted to take a look at the free wheeling pin and see if I could get it unstuck. After I took off the right rear tire I tried banging it out with a hammer but it would not budge, but it would rotate. I thought this was kind of odd and then pulled it out from the wrong direction. Someone put in a different pin because the ear was broke off the axle hub. I put the pin back in, but the head of the pin protruded past the hub flange and the wheel would not bolt flat. I looked on the 1050 I just got and the axle hub is complete with the correct pin so I am just going to swap them out. :smile1: Since I was half was into it, I drained the oil and am in the process of replacing the seals. I will try the 3 screw idea that Nascar posted in this thread after poking a hole in the seal and trying to pull it out with some needle nose pliers was not working well. http://gardentractor...t-running-5307/

Here are are some updated pic of where I stand.

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Edited by mark843, November 29, 2011 - 12:22 PM.


#70 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2011 - 06:22 PM

Wow!

Congratulations on the new Bolens! :dancingbanana:


The gear box most likely has some water mixed in with the oil. This most likely was caused by leaking through the vent(Yours appears to be not original)
The gear boxes are pretty simple inside, I think if you take the rear cover off and clean it out you should be good to go, These gearboxes rarely go bad.


Do you still need dimensions for those engine spacers?
I'm sorry, I forgot all about getting the measurements for you :wallbanging:

Its great that your daughter is showing the early signs of a future Bolens Addict :D

#71 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2011 - 09:42 AM

I put the washers back on as I could not find a suitable spacer at Lowes. If you have a spare and can get me the measurements that would be great. I'm sure I could find some scrap steel tube.

I am not sure what I will do with the 850 so I think I am willing to trade it for some accessories. I don't know what shape it is in but I have a feeling it does not run. The 1050 I will keep and use for parts. My original plan was to get it running and use it while I restore the other 1050, but I don't think I will not have the time or money right now to do it.

#72 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2011 - 09:58 AM

Mark, any way you could swap a few things to get the 'new' 1050 going? Then you can take your time on the other one until you need those parts. Or restore the 'new' one and pull parts off your old one when ready to finish up.

#73 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2011 - 06:40 PM

The gear box most likely has some water mixed in with the oil. This most likely was caused by leaking through the vent(Yours appears to be not original)


That style breather was the original style. ....Later model mower decks used a pressure-relief valve instead of a vent.
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#74 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2011 - 07:22 PM

That style breather was the original style. ....Later model mower decks used a pressure-relief valve instead of a vent.


Thanks, I did not know that
I'm used to seeing the 1721422 style pressure relief valves.

#75 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2011 - 07:32 PM

Drop me a pm
I got some extra spacers I can mail you for free
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