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Need help with fixing up a Bolens 1050.


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#31 dmcjt850 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2011 - 09:42 PM

Its apart the belt cover is a bit rough. Ill try to post some pictures of it on Sunday.

#32 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2011 - 12:47 PM

Update: I have not had time to actually tear into the tractor yet. My weekends have been pretty busy and no time during the week. I have not had any luck getting a mower deck yet, I got some quotes and and was going to get one from tubeframes.com, but they never replied to the 2 follow up emails for a shipping quotes back in June. So......I guess I am back to hunting down a mower deck.

For the clutch, is replacing the friction material as easy as taking a wire wheel to the old stuff, cleaning up the surface, putting the new friction material on, clamp it all together and throwing it into the oven? From what I have read, that seems to be the case.

#33 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2011 - 02:49 PM

For the clutch, is replacing the friction material as easy as taking a wire wheel to the old stuff, cleaning up the surface, putting the new friction material on, clamp it all together and throwing it into the oven?


Yes. ....The instructions for time & temperature were packaged with the clutch discs, but I don't know if that is still true.

I think the temp was 450 degrees for 90 minutes, but I would not bet on that. .....Hopefully, someone else will know and post the correct info.

We would use a long bolt with nut to clamp the two flanges to the belt pulley. .....Make sure the adhesive sides of the clutch discs face the pulley, not the flanges.

When you remove that mass of metal from the oven, it will remain HOT for quite a while, so be careful. ....Do not quench it with water to cool it off quickly.

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#34 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2011 - 08:48 PM

Yes. ....The instructions for time & temperature were packaged with the clutch discs, but I don't know if that is still true.

I think the temp was 450 degrees for 90 minutes, but I would not bet on that. .....Hopefully, someone else will know and post the correct info.

We would use a long bolt with nut to clamp the two flanges to the belt pulley. .....Make sure the adhesive sides of the clutch discs face the pulley, not the flanges.

When you remove that mass of metal from the oven, it will remain HOT for quite a while, so be careful. ....Do not quench it with water to cool it off quickly.


:ditto:

The time and temperatures that were needed to bake the discs varied by the style of adhesive used. Bolens used a few different style adhesives over the years and they each had different temperature specifications.

I'm pretty sure where ever you get the discs, they will come with instructions

#35 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2011 - 08:21 AM

Update: So I finally tore into the tractor on Saturday and got the clutch out. :bounce: What a pain! Now that it's out, I figure it would be a good time to replace all the bearings even though they still seem in good shape. I figure a little extra work and money now can save me some time and money in the future. As I don't know how long they have been in there, at least I will know from here on out.

So my options are to press out the bearings myself, or send out all the parts and have someone else do it. I do have a 20 ton press, but I don't have the right press tools to press them in and out correctly. :wallbanging:

Also, I have noticed a few things. One, the engine and gear box are leaking. I guess it's time to order new gaskets and seals. How hard it is to replace the oil seals around the axle shafts and are there any special tools I will need? Also, is RTV going to work well, or maybe high temp RTV or should I order gasket sets for the engine and transmission (for the non axle shaft stuff)? Also, the engine is leaking around the head so I know I will be using a gasket for that.

While I am ordering parts, what are good spares to have on hand besides belts?

I apologize for not getting pictures, but it was +90* put and I was working in the sun. The last thing I was thinking about was taking pictures.

One last thing, is the transmission the 3 or 6 speed? It has r,1,2,3 and a hi and low setting. I assume it is the 6 speeds but just want to make sure.

Edited by mark843, July 25, 2011 - 09:22 AM.


#36 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2011 - 02:31 PM

So my options are to press out the bearings myself, or send out all the parts and have someone else do it. I do have a 20 ton press, but I don't have the right press tools to press them in and out correctly. :wallbanging:
There is no need to send the parts out. ......If you were able to disassemble the clutch, you can change the bearings! .....For those without a press, a vise will work just as well. .....A hammer with a proper bushing driver will also work.

Sockets work well for pressing the needle bearings out of the clutch pulley. .....If the new bearings are started squarely, larger sockets can be used to press them in from each side. .....(The rounded end of the needle bearing goes into the pulley first.)

If you baked new linings onto the clutch pulley, you SHOULD replace the needle bearings.

The spherical bearing at the front of the clutch shaft is changed by removing the 2 bolts which hold the flanges to the clutch support.

The PTO assembly should also get new bearings, as they would frequently wear and become very noisy. .....No special tricks needed to replace these either.

Also, I have noticed a few things. One, the engine and gear box are leaking. I guess it's time to order new gaskets and seals. How hard it is to replace the oil seals around the axle shafts and are there any special tools I will need? Also, is RTV going to work well, or maybe high temp RTV or should I order gasket sets for the engine and transmission (for the non axle shaft stuff)? Also, the engine is leaking around the head so I know I will be using a gasket for that.

Wisconsin engines would often leak oil from the front crankshaft oil seal and the gaskets under the front bearing plate. ......Crankshaft end-play is adjusted by shimming the front bearing plate, so do not remove shims (unless end-play is excessive) or add thick gaskets (which will increase end-play). .....A thin smear of gasket sealant between all the gaskets, shims, and metal surfaces will help prevent leaks. .....There is a small "notch" in the gaskets & shims to allow excess oil to drain from the front bearing. .....Note the position when removing them (or consult the Wisconsin manual) to insure they are re-installed correctly. .....Also, do not fill these "notches" with sealant. .....The front crankshaft seal is easily changed when the bearing plate is removed from the front of the block (3 bolts).

If you need to remove the crankcase cover to repair a gasket leak, that is a good time to change the rear seal. ...Usually the rear seals did not fail as often as the front seals, but it is much easier to do if the cover is off. ......Care must be taken to not lose (or forget to re-install) the steel ball & spring which is used at the end of the camshaft. ......When putting the cover back on, some grease will hold the steel ball in its proper position in the crankcase cover.

If the crankcase cover is NOT leaking, but the rear seal is leaking, the seal can be R&R'd without removing the crankcase cover. .....Care must be used to not mar or score the crankshaft or cover. .....A long bushing or piece of pipe of the correct diameter can be used to seat the new seal.

Axle seals are not too difficult to change, but there may be worn parts or burrs which will quickly destroy new seals if corrections are not made before installing the new seals. ......Also, do NOT push the new seals over the threaded portions of the axle. ....."Screw" the seals onto the axle, or use a very thin sleeve of plastic to prevent the new seals from being cut on the threads.
.....Success will be determined by your patience and attention to detail.


While I am ordering parts, what are good spares to have on hand besides belts? Depending on their condition, idler pulleys for the drive and PTO may need replacing. .....If they feel rough when spun by hand, or if they are noisy, now is a good time to change them.

One last thing, is the transmission the 3 or 6 speed? It has r,1,2,3 and a hi and low setting. I assume it is the 6 speeds but just want to make sure. Your thinking is correct!


Holler if you need more info.
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#37 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2011 - 03:46 PM

:ditto: Bruce's Post
I couldn't have described it any better! :worshippy1:

The things I usually stock are Idler pulleys , Belts and Transmission oil seals.
Other then that, the rest of the parts are nearly bullet proof

#38 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2011 - 08:16 AM

Wow! Thanks for such a great post Bruce. I am still a newbie when it comes to this tractor, but I am learning quite a bit. I will change out the idler pulleys while I am in there. I think it is best to have everything fresh and tight, then I can start a routine maintenance program.

#39 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2011 - 02:36 PM

Update:

I just placed an order with Sam's and tubeframes.com for some parts. This is what is on it's way:

brake plate with friction pad
2 pack friction disk (for clutch)
2 idler pulleys
clutch bearing kit
pto rebuild kit
drive belt tension spring
throttle cable
transaxle gasket and seal kit
TRA-10D gasket kit
Air filter
transaxle brake pad

I also ordered 4 new tires from northerntool.com. I hope after all this money she will run well. I just hope the wife does not kill me for the amount of money I spent.

I also talked with the person at tubeframes.com about the mower deck and will be getting a quote for shipping. I think this is everything I need. If I seem to be missing anything or any other suggestions for parts please let me know.
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#40 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2011 - 08:24 PM

Sounds like you got all the bases covered.
Keep us updated

Just out of curiosity how much did he charge you for the air filter and tension spring?

#41 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2011 - 08:22 AM

Sounds like you got all the bases covered.
Keep us updated

Just out of curiosity how much did he charge you for the air filter and tension spring?



I ordered both of those from tubeframes.com, but have not received an invoice in my email to pay for them yet. According to the website they should be $12 for the filter and $9 for the tension spring. The spring I have seems ok, but for a few dollars more I know that everything will be tight mechanically for the clutch and belts. If they both match up well with the same size and tension, I will keep one as a spare.

#42 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2011 - 01:55 PM

Does anyone know what size valve stems are used for the wheels?

#43 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2011 - 08:33 AM

If you still have the original one you could probably get it matched up at an auto parts store.

#44 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2011 - 10:13 AM

Update:

After moving into the new house and growing grass so I will actually have something to cut, I finally got some time on Saturday to work on the 1050. I replaced all the seals so the engine is almost ready to go back in. A few things I was not sure about that I will have to go back and finish.

1st is the head bolts. What torque are they supposed to be tightened down to?

The 2nd thing is the thin longer spring. I could not remember how that was hooked up but I'm sure I can find out where in the manuals.

One dumb thing that I did was I wanted to take the muffler and exhaust pipe off the engine, but it was on there pretty good and I ended up breaking the exhaust pipe at the engine side threads. :wallbanging: I will have to find another exhaust pipe. The mufflers seem easy though. I did get the remaining part out of the engine so I will now just have to do an install.

I don't think I will be replacing the seals in the gear box right now as this has to get back together in the next few weeks and ready for the snow.

A few weeks before I moved, I got the clutch out and the new friction surface put on. I think the problem I was having was that only one side of the pulley had friction material on it, like it was never put on. I also got the new tires mounted and aired up.

I will start assembling everything, but I hope to get the tires put on and everything moved from my parents house to my house so I can work on it in my garage instead of outside at my parents who live 30 minutes away.

#45 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2011 - 05:09 PM

Glad to hear you got some time to work on the 1050

The manual says to torque the head bolts to 18 ft. lbs

Here's a picture of the spring linkages Untitled.jpg

The long thin spring goes from the top of the governor lever to the metal tube on the valve cover
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