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Need help with fixing up a Bolens 1050.


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#196 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2012 - 03:58 PM

Yes, thats correct
To test if they need replacing, remove the valve spring then put the valve back in and see if you can wiggle it around. There should be minimal play if the guides are in decent shape. If the valve wobbles quite a bit then they need replacing.

#197 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 05:37 PM

I put in the other engine in and I seem to still have an issue of the engine quitting on me after 20 minutes or so. I adjusted the timing, carb and put in a new spark plug but it still seems to have issues. At this point I'm at a loss. It might still be over heating but it does not seem like the engine is smoking or has gas in the oil like the other engine did.

 

While I am using the snow caster, the engine bogs down if I am going in a straight line and going through 12 to 14 inches of fresh snow in 1st gear low. After about 15 to 20 minutes the engine just stops. If I let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes it will start up and I can use it for about 10 more minutes before it quits again.

 

I put a lot of work into this and I feel like I want to give up and go buy something new(er) at this point. I just want to be able to cut my grass and clean my driveway.

 

Any suggestions I should try or look into before I give up?



#198 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 06:19 PM

sounds like a bad coil to me my EK use to do it until  i replaced the coil runs all day no problem.  or its vapor locking but i would say coil


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#199 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 06:41 PM

Like Sam mentioned above its either Vapor lock or you have a bad coil.

 

Where is your fuel line routed?

 

As long as the engine is not seized this should be a simple fix. Does the engine feel tight after it shuts down?


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#200 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 07:13 PM

The fuel line is routed behind the shroud so I would imagine it would get pretty hot back there. Maybe I should get another line and route it in front of the shroud like the other engine had the fuel line routed. I should have another coil on the parts tractor.

 

 

 

 

Any suggestions on what seems to be that the engine gets bogged down and seems to want to stall when throwing snow deeper snow?


Edited by mark843, December 30, 2012 - 07:13 PM.


#201 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 07:26 PM

The fuel line is routed behind the shroud so I would imagine it would get pretty hot back there. Maybe I should get another line and route it in front of the shroud like the other engine had the fuel line routed. I should have another coil on the parts tractor.

 

 

 

 

Any suggestions on what seems to be that the engine gets bogged down and seems to want to stall when throwing snow deeper snow?

 

Your fuel line is in the correct location so I am going to rule that out for now.

I'd swap out the coil and see what happens, Just remember to use one that has an internal Resistor.


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#202 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2012 - 07:45 PM

Any suggestions on what seems to be that the engine gets bogged down and seems to want to stall when throwing snow deeper snow?

 

 

Well, 12'' of heavy snow is a tough go for any single stage Snow Blower.

The 1050 I was blowing with was in 1st low and I still had to press the clutch in and wait for the RPM's to pick back up in the drifts.

 

Another cause of lack of power would be a worn engine or improper settings on the Carb. (Not getting enough gas when in full throttle)


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#203 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2012 - 08:37 AM

I think my plan will to be to run the 1050 as is and when it quits again I will have the spare coil to swap in quickly. It should only take a few minutes. If it starts right up I should know if it is the coil or not. In the past the 1050 would handle the type of snow we got with no problem. After I rebuilt the carb because it looked like it was starting to leak and was warped, the engine problems started and it has not performed as well. I don't know the history of this engine I swapped in so it could have issues itself.

 

I guess the hydro would do better in these situations as the speed could be varied more and go slower. I have been looking for a 1256 for the last month in WNY but have not come across any so far.



#204 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2012 - 09:26 AM

Having a warped Carb could be the reason for your lack of power. If the gasket is leaking you could be sucking in too much air and messing up the fuel to air ratio....


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#205 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2012 - 10:40 AM

Having a warped Carb could be the reason for your lack of power. If the gasket is leaking you could be sucking in too much air and messing up the fuel to air ratio....

 

 

That was the issue (I hope) I fixed when I rebuilt the carb in the spring. It is not leaking or at least I don't see a wet spot between the halves now. After researching on coil issues, it the coil is weak and makes a weak spark, that could also lead to a loss of power.


Edited by mark843, December 31, 2012 - 10:40 AM.


#206 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2012 - 02:33 PM

weak spark is most likely the contacts "points" as i call them and condenser could be a problem but if it quits after 20 mins of run time i say start with the coil then if you run it and it keeps running then you know. but if you dont have a nice blue spark after that then you need points and condenser set witch are like 20 bucks






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