Need help with fixing up a Bolens 1050.
Posted May 30, 2012 - 08:48 AM
Posted May 30, 2012 - 10:28 AM
I was trying to get it back together this weekend. I calling the venders here and there but is there someone who would specialize in Wisconsin parts?
Edited by mark843, May 30, 2012 - 10:29 AM.
Posted May 30, 2012 - 10:49 AM
Posted May 30, 2012 - 11:29 AM
Have you tried Fox equipment in West seneca?
Yes. They said over a week, I think 10 days. Hodgson said 2 weeks but maybe 10 days and Buffalo small engine said he couldn't help me as Wisconsin engines are no longer made. After I called Sam's, I started to think about looking at the reed on the parts tractor to see if that one is still in good shape. I will pull it off tonight if I can't find someone who can mail one out today.
I wanted to try and get this cutting grass this weekend as the backyard is getting pretty long, but I think I might have to borrow a riding mower.
Posted May 31, 2012 - 09:56 AM
Posted June 02, 2012 - 07:34 PM
I retorqued the head bolts as they were a little loose then I put the torque wrench on them. The new development is related to the burning oil. I now see an oil leak on the left side of the engine up high.
I think the head gasket is failing, maybe from over heating or the head bolts loosening up? Could this be the cause of the oil burning? I am not sure why it would leak from that spot as that is the furthest from the valves and I don't see that much oil being in the cylinder.
Last questing, Would it be OK to run this until I get a new head gasket for a couple hours or would it cause more damage? I really need to mow my grass and I would stop every 20 minutes or so to check and top off the oil if needed.
Posted June 02, 2012 - 08:22 PM
Only thing I can think of as a possibility is the front oil seal or a leaky head gasket.
If the leak is not bad I would think you would be ok to mow as long as you get off the tractor every once in a while to monitor the leaking area, If it gets worse stop it and check the oil level.
Posted June 03, 2012 - 11:48 AM
I took the head off and this is what I found.
There seems to be a lot of oil in the cylinder. and you can see where the gasket was blown. I cleaned everything up as best as I could but will have to do a better job.
I rotated the flywheel and I could see into the intake valve and it looked pretty oily in there, so I think it might be coming from the intake valve. Could this be the cause or could it be the rings or combination? What keeps oil from getting past the valve as I don't see a valve seal for this engine?
Edited by mark843, June 03, 2012 - 11:54 AM.
Posted June 03, 2012 - 12:09 PM
Was there alot of oil where you took of the valve cover? Some of that is probably due to the bent reed valve you had in there not forming a proper vacuum.
Posted June 03, 2012 - 12:41 PM
What would be the partial rebuild? Rings and valve guides or would I need more? The valves and seats look good and look to seal just fine.
Any suggestions for a place that can get the parts to me by Thursday? The cylinder was bored .30 over.
Edited by mark843, June 03, 2012 - 12:42 PM.
Posted June 03, 2012 - 06:40 PM
Wisconsin parts are not normally stocked by any local dealers anymore and have to be ordered.
If you need them in a hurry you can check with our site sponsor Bob (Bhts) and see what he has in stock.
Posted June 03, 2012 - 06:43 PM
I see you have a 1/2 stamped into the block which indicates this is one of the engines that was slightly defective at the factory and they were then bored 1/2 over size before they were shipped out.
Posted June 03, 2012 - 07:04 PM
It might be better if I put the carb on the spare engine and mount in my 1050.
Edited by mark843, June 03, 2012 - 07:05 PM.
Posted June 03, 2012 - 07:18 PM
From what I have been able to gather from literature and other members, the only "defective" part was the bore and instead of throwing the whole block away they just bored them slightly oversize.
Posted June 04, 2012 - 09:05 AM