Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Need help with fixing up a Bolens 1050.


  • Please log in to reply
205 replies to this topic

#181 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted May 30, 2012 - 08:48 AM

Yes that reed valve is pretty bent up, they should lay flat

#182 mark843 OFFLINE  

mark843

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2905
  • 15 Thanks
  • 199 posts
  • Location: West Seneca, NY

Posted May 30, 2012 - 10:28 AM

Any suggestions as to who may have one? I called locally to a few shops and it looks like it would be 2 weeks or so to get it.

I was trying to get it back together this weekend. I calling the venders here and there but is there someone who would specialize in Wisconsin parts?

Edited by mark843, May 30, 2012 - 10:29 AM.


#183 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted May 30, 2012 - 10:49 AM

Have you tried Fox equipment in West seneca?

#184 mark843 OFFLINE  

mark843

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2905
  • 15 Thanks
  • 199 posts
  • Location: West Seneca, NY

Posted May 30, 2012 - 11:29 AM

Have you tried Fox equipment in West seneca?


Yes. They said over a week, I think 10 days. Hodgson said 2 weeks but maybe 10 days and Buffalo small engine said he couldn't help me as Wisconsin engines are no longer made. After I called Sam's, I started to think about looking at the reed on the parts tractor to see if that one is still in good shape. I will pull it off tonight if I can't find someone who can mail one out today.

I wanted to try and get this cutting grass this weekend as the backyard is getting pretty long, but I think I might have to borrow a riding mower.

#185 mark843 OFFLINE  

mark843

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2905
  • 15 Thanks
  • 199 posts
  • Location: West Seneca, NY

Posted May 31, 2012 - 09:56 AM

I used the one off the parts tractor. It had a very slight curve to it but was not even close to how bad the other one was. When I order the new reed, I will order 2 and replace them both. I would like to get the other engine running again, but that will take getting another carb that is good and not warped.

#186 mark843 OFFLINE  

mark843

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2905
  • 15 Thanks
  • 199 posts
  • Location: West Seneca, NY

Posted June 02, 2012 - 07:34 PM

I got the newest (to me) carb put back together. I only ran the 1050 for a total of 20 minutes and engaged the mower deck and it didn't seem to lug or slow down too much. so I will do a longer test tomorrow, maybe.

I retorqued the head bolts as they were a little loose then I put the torque wrench on them. The new development is related to the burning oil. I now see an oil leak on the left side of the engine up high.

oil_leak.jpg

I think the head gasket is failing, maybe from over heating or the head bolts loosening up? Could this be the cause of the oil burning? I am not sure why it would leak from that spot as that is the furthest from the valves and I don't see that much oil being in the cylinder.

Last questing, Would it be OK to run this until I get a new head gasket for a couple hours or would it cause more damage? I really need to mow my grass and I would stop every 20 minutes or so to check and top off the oil if needed.

#187 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted June 02, 2012 - 08:22 PM

Hard to tell exactly where the leak is coming from in the pictures...
Only thing I can think of as a possibility is the front oil seal or a leaky head gasket.
If the leak is not bad I would think you would be ok to mow as long as you get off the tractor every once in a while to monitor the leaking area, If it gets worse stop it and check the oil level.

#188 mark843 OFFLINE  

mark843

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2905
  • 15 Thanks
  • 199 posts
  • Location: West Seneca, NY

Posted June 03, 2012 - 11:48 AM

It is raining so I will not be able to cut the grass today. I dug into the engine and I found the where the head was leaking.

oil_leak2.jpg


I took the head off and this is what I found.

head.jpg head_off.jpg head_gasket.jpg

There seems to be a lot of oil in the cylinder. and you can see where the gasket was blown. I cleaned everything up as best as I could but will have to do a better job.

cleaned.jpg

I rotated the flywheel and I could see into the intake valve and it looked pretty oily in there, so I think it might be coming from the intake valve. Could this be the cause or could it be the rings or combination? What keeps oil from getting past the valve as I don't see a valve seal for this engine?

Edited by mark843, June 03, 2012 - 11:54 AM.


#189 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted June 03, 2012 - 12:09 PM

With that much oil in the cylinder I'd say unfortunately that's the signs of a worn engine in need of a partial rebuild.
Was there alot of oil where you took of the valve cover? Some of that is probably due to the bent reed valve you had in there not forming a proper vacuum.

#190 mark843 OFFLINE  

mark843

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2905
  • 15 Thanks
  • 199 posts
  • Location: West Seneca, NY

Posted June 03, 2012 - 12:41 PM

I'm not sure if there was excessive oil. It looks like there was not excessive oil, but this is what it looked like behind the valve cover.

valves.jpg

What would be the partial rebuild? Rings and valve guides or would I need more? The valves and seats look good and look to seal just fine.

Any suggestions for a place that can get the parts to me by Thursday? The cylinder was bored .30 over.

Edited by mark843, June 03, 2012 - 12:42 PM.


#191 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted June 03, 2012 - 06:40 PM

A partial rebuild is just doing the basics such as lapping the valves, (Replace valve guides if necessary), hone the cylinder, get new seals/Gaskets, get new rings and your usually good to go.

Wisconsin parts are not normally stocked by any local dealers anymore and have to be ordered.
If you need them in a hurry you can check with our site sponsor Bob (Bhts) and see what he has in stock.

#192 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted June 03, 2012 - 06:43 PM

How do you know the cylinder is .030 over?
I see you have a 1/2 stamped into the block which indicates this is one of the engines that was slightly defective at the factory and they were then bored 1/2 over size before they were shipped out.

#193 mark843 OFFLINE  

mark843

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2905
  • 15 Thanks
  • 199 posts
  • Location: West Seneca, NY

Posted June 03, 2012 - 07:04 PM

My uncle had it rebuilt and had it bored .30 over, also there is a .30 stamped in the cylinder. was just the cylinder bore the only defective part of the engine?

It might be better if I put the carb on the spare engine and mount in my 1050.

Edited by mark843, June 03, 2012 - 07:05 PM.


#194 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted June 03, 2012 - 07:18 PM

The engines that were bored 1/2 over used a special size piston and rings, but since the engine has been bored over to .030 there's nothing to worry about.
From what I have been able to gather from literature and other members, the only "defective" part was the bore and instead of throwing the whole block away they just bored them slightly oversize.

#195 mark843 OFFLINE  

mark843

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2905
  • 15 Thanks
  • 199 posts
  • Location: West Seneca, NY

Posted June 04, 2012 - 09:05 AM

To replace the valve guides, I just have to drive them down and out, then put the new ones in the top and drive them flush?




Top