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Need help with fixing up a Bolens 1050.


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#166 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 07:48 PM

Glad you were able to have the gap machined down .It was quite common for these zeniths to get warped from people over tightening them.

I would definitely get the carb kit in the second link you posted. A carb kit usually just contains the bare minimum of gaskets and parts. Usually in most cases to do a complete rebuild you would have to purchase the other parts separately.

A warped carb will definitely affect how your engine runs so there is a good chance that that is what's causing your problem.

#167 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2012 - 09:52 AM

I took the carb off the parts tractor and it had the same issue on the front lip. I ended up taking a 1x4x16inch peice of wood and putting 100 grid sand paper on it, then putting it on my kitchen table and sanded the surface of the bowl cover. It came out pretty good but not perfect. I think it will be a bit better if I can go over it with some finer sand paper. I hear that using a peice of glass is better then a block of wood, but I dodn't have any.

I am going to go ove to NAPA on my lunch break to see if they have a carb kit in stock. I also need to get a new gas line. I wish I would have known about the differences in kits and not have to spend $30 to learn that lesson.

#168 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 07:28 PM

I got some more work done on the 1050 this weekend. I put on the new started belt and wow what a difference. The old belt was stretched and I had almost no more room left in the slot to adjust the belt some more. The new one is tight and the bolt sits close to the engine in the slot. No more belt slipping.

I also replaced the brake pad on for the parking brake. The part was lost for a while but I found it the other day. The old pad was almost gone.

I got the carb back together and mounted it with the new fuel line. After that I started the 1050 and it was running fairly well. It seemed to start smoking a bit so does that mean it is running too rich when it does that? I think tracked down the issue with the engine RPMs not getting up as high as it should. Last fall I installed a new throttle cable and it does not seem to be the correct length as if it needs to be cut down. When I pull the throttle all the way out, it does not pull the lever it is attached to all the way down, thus the engine is not opening all the way up event though I pulled the throttle all the way back. I will compare it to the one on my parts tractor and use that one if I need be. I also need a smaller cable clamp as the one I have can not tighten up against it to hold it without slipping.

#169 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 08:29 PM

Glad you are making some headway.

What color smoke was coming out from the engine? If it was black smoke your engine is running too rich.

#170 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2012 - 09:22 AM

I can't remember the color of the smoke off the top of my head as it has been a few days. I will try and watch it more closely when I run it this weekend. Here are some updated pics.

This is the issue I was having with the throttle cable not open up all the way. The first pic is the throttle cable all the way forward so the engine would idle. The second is the throttle pulled all the way back and you can notice it was not opening up the govenor all the way.

new_throttle_cable_closed.jpg new_throttle_cable_open.jpg

Here is the cable off the parts tractor that seems to work correctly. I still need to put on a bracket to hold the choke cable so that works correctly.

engine_cables.jpg

A few post back I stated that my right front tire would slide in and out about an 1/8" or so. It looks like I did not put the thrust washer back and will have to pull one from the parts tractor.

right_front_wheel.jpg

The last issue is it looks like I have an oil leak at the top of the gear box. I don't think it seals correctly and the cover plate may be a bit warrped and will not seal well. I will retighten the bolts and watch to see if the issue persists.

oil_leak.jpg

#171 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2012 - 08:34 PM

It looks like your throttle cable has too much slack in it. loosen up the tab near the governor spring and pull the cable back some.

As for the leak near the transmission, that seems to be a common area that they leak at.
All you got to do is replace the transmission cover gasket and you should be good to go. But since the leak is so minor I wouldn't worry about it
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#172 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2012 - 09:04 AM

It looks like your throttle cable has too much slack in it. loosen up the tab near the governor spring and pull the cable back some.

As for the leak near the transmission, that seems to be a common area that they leak at.
All you got to do is replace the transmission cover gasket and you should be good to go. But since the leak is so minor I wouldn't worry about it


I put on the throttle cable from the parts tractor which is working fine. The new one was too long and I cut it down some, but I have to cut it a little more to match the length.

I really don't want to replace the gasket so I will leave it for now. My worry is washing the tractor and maybe getting some water in the gear box. I thought about making a top cover out of some sheet steal that might work better to seal the gear box.

#173 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2012 - 11:38 AM

I wouldn't worry about getting water in the gear box. The metal that is bent down in your pictures sort of seals in the gearbox from getting any dirt or water in it.

#174 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2012 - 04:21 PM

Got everything back together but now I am having some new issues. It seem to bog down and lose power when I put some load on the engine.


This first video is just showing the idle and throttle up. You might be able to see some of the smoke. It is white with a little blue it looks like. It did not do this before I rebuilt the carb.



This video shows me shifting into gear and the motor bogging down and dieing. This dows not happen all the time if I release the clutch slowly.



This video shows me engine the pto and the engine bogging down. It does not seem to recover well and sometimes not at all.


I was having another weird issue were the tractor died and I could not start it. I looked at the gas and it looked as if it was boiling as bubbles were cumming up. I could touch the side of the gas tank and it was not that had, but the side by the engine might. I drained the gas and went to the gas station and got fresh gas. I did not run it long but I did not see this happen again when running for 15 minutes. The first time I was running it was longer then that.

Could it be a carb issue with the engine bogging down or could it be another issue? I did not have this problem with the snow caster over the winter. The only thing I really did was rebuild the carb.

I also had gas coming out of that little spot right on the bottom front of the carb where the air intake connects. It started dripping out after about 10 to 15 minutes of the engine off.

I tightened the bolts real tight on the top plate and I think it stopped leaking. This morning it was pretty bad with it flowing out.

Edited by mark843, May 25, 2012 - 04:22 PM.


#175 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2012 - 04:42 PM

The smoke that it is making is from burning oil,
You either have a carb problem or low compression which causes it to bogg down.
Do you have a spare carb you know works that you could put on the 1050 and see if it runs better?

#176 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2012 - 01:09 PM

I am thinking it is a carb issue. I called my uncle but I think he is out of town this weekend but he should have the spare carb.

In the mean time, does anyone have the specs for setting the float on the carb? I can't find the paper I wrote them down on.

ETA: I took the carb apart and it looks like gas was puddling in the bottom. Maybe the float is not set correctly or sticking, but it does not seem to be sticking from looking at it. I really don't think the gasket is sealing like it should. I also think that because of the carb is letting in too much gas, it is getting in with the oil. The oil was down near the bottom of the good zone when I checked today and it was at the top of the good zone yesterday after changing the oil. The oil also seems a bit thin so maybe gas is getting into it? I will have to flush the oil a few times now.

Edited by mark843, May 26, 2012 - 02:15 PM.


#177 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2012 - 07:07 AM

Could the float be leaking? Have you taken it out and shook it to see if you hear any liquid inside?

It almost sounds like you have a warped Carb if the gasket is not sealing correctly. Try removing the gasket and see if the carb goes together evenly. If you have a big gap when you put the two halves together without the gasket ,then the warped carb may be causing all your problems.

#178 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2012 - 07:27 PM

No gas in the float. The carb was warped but I tried lapping it and get it flat as possible, but did not do a good job.

I got the carb from my uncle, and it is warped as well. This makes 3 warped carbs. I took it apart and lapped it and it seems close enough that the gasket will take care of the rest, or at least I am hoping. It is soaking in pine-sol for the next few days to get it cleaned up and I will put it back together.

My dad found me the zenith model 68 carb manual online when I could not have find it. I didn't see one on here.Where would be the best location to upload it?

I took the reed valve out and it looks like it has a crease in the middle of it, across the screw hole to help put down pressure. Is it supposed to be like this? I did not think it was and was supposed to be totally flat all the way across with no crease.

#179 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2012 - 07:32 AM

You can probably post the Carb manual Here http://gardentractor...engine-manuals/

It was quite common for these carbs to warp due to over tightening and not tightening evenly.
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#180 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2012 - 08:04 AM

I will get the manual posted up tonight if I get the chance. Here is a pic of the reed valve. Sorry for the pic, but this is the best non blurry one I was able to get.

reed_valve.jpg




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