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Need help with fixing up a Bolens 1050.


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#151 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2012 - 06:36 PM

I have not updated this thread in a while as I have been busy working on my house and other things. I still have to adjust idle so I will need to pickup a tachometer, but tonight I was grilling some hot dogs and my right front tire looked like it needed some air, so I kicked it a little. When I did this the wheel would slide on the axle maybe about an 1/8th inch or so. When I put the wheel back on a few months ago, I forgot that it did not seem tight like the left side, and everything looked OK when I reassembled everything. I could not figure out why it did this. Is this normal, or is there any way to adjust this so there is no play?

I forgot to add that I went to install lift spring assist kit and I broke a bolt that bolts the frame and axle support together. The bolt seemed real soft, so I will take it all apart and replace with some graded bolts.

Edited by mark843, March 25, 2012 - 06:40 PM.


#152 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2012 - 06:56 PM

Check and see if your bearings are worn in the wheel. You may need to add a washer or two to take up the slop Part# 121898
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#153 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2012 - 08:59 AM

This thread is great, thanks to you and the contributors.I know I'll be referring back to it often as a guide.
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#154 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2012 - 12:23 PM

I am glad this thread can help someone else. I don't know much about these old Bolens so I ask plenty of questions.

The only update I have is my tachometer came in the mail so I hope to get a chance this weekend to adjust the carb.

#155 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2012 - 03:34 PM

Ok so I tried to get the carb adjusted and the RPMs set. I think the fuel mix is set, but having a hard time with getting the RPMs set.

I initially had the idle set to around 1200 but they seem to jump around by 50 RPMs or so and not smooth. The idle screw was all the way in for to get to 1200.

I then adjusted the RPMs at full throttle. It was at around 2600 to start but when I got it around 3400 I checked the idle RPMs again and they jumped to 2100 and I could not adjust them back down with the idle screw as it was all the way in.

What am I doing wrong?

Also, are the RPMs supposed to jump like mine does or should they be pretty consistent at idle?

#156 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2012 - 03:51 PM

I personally have never checked the RPM's on the engines as usually I just go by ear with adjusting the idle and high speed.
As long as the engine runs smooth and its not running extremely fast I would just leave it the way it is IMO

Is there a way you can make a video or an audio recording of the engine running?

#157 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2012 - 04:21 PM

I was inspecting the carb earlier today and it looked wet around the seals. I have decided to rebuild the carb and then go from there.

I think the instructions I was following may not have been correct. In the Wisconsin repair manual it says to turn the main jet 1 to 1 1/4 turns to start and I was doing 2 turn from the instructions I printed out a while back. I can't remember where. What should I start with on the idle screw? I have seen 1 1/2 turns.

I can't really tell how fast an engine is going by sounds and the low RPMs may be why the blower was not working as well as I was thinking it should.

I think the odd part was when I adjusted the high speed RPMs with the governor spring in the 4th hole, the idle RPMs would increase as well and I had no way to adjust it down because the idle screw was all the way in. I think if the seals are failing as it is wet around them, it might be a good time to just do the rebuild and then adjust it.

Once I get it rebuilt, I will get a video on YouTube with a basic adjustment to get opinions. This is the first time I am trying to do anything with a carb so it is new territory for me.

#158 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 07:17 AM

I took the carb apart yesterday but it looked clean inside. It is soaking in pine-sol right now and I hope to start getting it back together tomorrow. Sorry I didn't get pics but if it was pretty nasty I would have taken some before pics. I will try and get some after pics. The seals needed to get changed as they looked wet around them so I thought it best to get it taken care of now. I hope I don't have too much trouble getting it back together.

#159 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 09:21 AM

Hopefully a good cleaning will do the trick. Have you ordered a rebuild kit for the carb?


To start off the adjustment, you want to have the main jet 1-1/4'' turns out ,and 1-1/2 turns for the idle screw. When you are making adjustments turn out the screws slowly and wait about 1 minute before trying to make an adjustment again.
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#160 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 12:25 PM

Thanks. I found the info in the wisconson manual. I think one of the other sheets I had printed out said to start with the main 2 turn and the idle all the way in. I can't remember where I go that info but it was on something I printed out. That might have let to some issues.

I will wait about a minute as I was not doing that before to let thing smooth out and adjust. Enev though the carb was clean, something could have been blocking a passage. I know there is not a fuel filter in the hose but I will be adding one. I did find a long crack in the fuel hose so I will get that replaced also.

#161 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 12:42 PM

Thanks. I found the info in the wisconson manual. I think one of the other sheets I had printed out said to start with the main 2 turn and the idle all the way in. I can't remember where I go that info but it was on something I printed out. That might have let to some issues.

I will wait about a minute as I was not doing that before to let thing smooth out and adjust. Enev though the carb was clean, something could have been blocking a passage. I know there is not a fuel filter in the hose but I will be adding one. I did find a long crack in the fuel hose so I will get that replaced also.


Do you have a fuel shutoff valve with a screen on it that goes to the tank?

#162 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2012 - 10:13 AM

I am not sure if I have a screen or not. I did not see one but here is a pic of what it looks like from the top.

fuel_valve.jpg

#163 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 05:28 AM

It looks like you have one...
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#164 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 10:32 AM

I have run into some issues with rebuilding the carb. First is that the top and bottom halves leave too much of a gap in the front. (Sorry no pics.) It seems as if the front screws were tightened too much and the pulled the ears together creating a raised space allowing the surfaces not to mate with each other. The good news is that I showed it to the guys at the machine shop at work and they will see about fixing it for me tomorrow. They will slightly mill the bottom half flat and stone the areas around the front screws flat on the top half. This should make sure the surfaces are true and the gasket will seal any other imperfections. At this point I have nothing to lose.

The second issue is the carb repair kit (LQ33) I ordered from one of the venders seems not to have all the gaskets/washers that are needed. The idle needle and the float needle (2 pieces) are also different than what I pulled out of my carb. The kit looks like this one.

carb.jpg

I see this kit with what looks like it has more gaskets that I will need and the float needle (one piece) is the same that came out of my carb.

carb2.jpg

Does anyone have a specific part number for the kit with everything I need or should I order the second kit pictured?

Update: I just got the carb back from the machine shop. They got to it quick. It is much better then it was before with a slight gap still at the front, but I think the gasket will take care of it. I think they said the gap was .0014 at the front now. They also said that if the gasket doesnot seal it, They have thicker gasket material I can use. I will try and get some pics ip of it tonight.

Edited by mark843, May 09, 2012 - 05:51 PM.


#165 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 05:29 PM

After getting home and putting the gasket on, I see it still will have a slight gap. I think I will be looking at the carb on the other 1050 and using that.u8kw2

Here are 2 kits that I was looking at. I have been favoring the second one.

http://tewarehouse.c...=2&category=125

http://www.mcdonaldc...duct_p/z112.htm

Here are pics of the carb. I am not sure if you can see the slight gap in the 3rd picture but that is what is causing the issue.The last one you can see where the casting has broken some around the throttle linkage holes.

carb3.jpg carb4.jpg carb5.jpg carb6.jpg




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