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#1 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 11:34 AM

So I bought a cheap Chinese light LED light strip with power supply. It was missing power cord so finally got seller to send me one. Plugged it in and nothing. I decided to take apart and found the power wires had been cut. Doesn't look like it had been own before so I have no idea why they would be cut. 

 

Anyone know if I can connect the backs and whites and be okay and it will work? 

 

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Edited by TAHOE, December 29, 2015 - 11:42 AM.

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#2 tater195 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 11:54 AM

looks fishy to me. where does the power cord go, or is it even hooked to anything?

 

just from the pics I would say the power in goes to the blk/wht wires on the transformer side and the output to the led is on the other end... IF it uses 120vac input, if it has a12vdc external power pack, that board isn't even needed


Edited by tater195, December 29, 2015 - 11:56 AM.

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#3 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 12:16 PM

Wow! Lots of gadget for just a light.  Colors are right for power wiring, but one says Ground, can't see what other says in picture. Wouldn't think AC is ground, just Neutral?  Wonder if those are just test leads when they build this thing and not needed later to use? Doesn't the cord just plug into the end of the light strip? ONe's I've seen lately all just plug into each other to continue the strip any length.  No paperwork with it, I guess? Online help from maker or seller?  Trash can and do another way? heh!


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#4 Bud W OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 12:21 PM

When I see a black wire soldered to GND, that to me would indicate a DC circuit. In a 110/120 volt AC circuit, the black wire indicates Line voltage and the white is neutral. I would be very careful with that!


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#5 tater195 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 12:27 PM

When I see a black wire soldered to GND, that to me would indicate a DC circuit. In a 110/120 volt AC circuit, the black wire indicates Line voltage and the white is neutral. I would be very careful with that!

That should be the DC end. The black wire on the other end is marked "L" which would be right for AC



#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 12:38 PM

When I see a black wire soldered to GND, that to me would indicate a DC circuit. In a 110/120 volt AC circuit, the black wire indicates Line voltage and the white is neutral. I would be very careful with that!


Exactly what i was thinking.

#7 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 12:39 PM

That should be the DC end. The black wire on the other end is marked "L" which would be right for AC


But the white is marked "Z1"???

Unless the N is under that big glop of silicone

#8 tater195 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 12:49 PM

I would like to see a pic of the bottom to see if the power and output wires are already hooked up. I am betting this is either cobbled together from another application or the cut wires are only for testing. It was made in china so it is hard telling what they did and why


Edited by tater195, December 29, 2015 - 12:50 PM.


#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 12:51 PM

Those power wires were cut for a reason.  Probably to keep someone from plugging it in to a power source because it is bad.  Trash can it and find one complete.



#10 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 03:14 PM

I finally figured it out....I think. I posted on FB in a group I am on where guys build these things from scratch. It appears that maybe the eBay seller and I were both had by someone. After figuring it out, I think someone bought these, opened up case, soldered lighter wires onto the board and probaby took what the needed (working board) and put their broke junk back inside. The 110 AC power wires are 18 maybe 20 gage where the should be 14 at least. The smaller red/black were added, definitely not a production line made mods.

I think the black/white cut wires were from original whatever. I think after they did what they did, they returned it and then seller threw back in inventory and I got stuck with it. It appears to be a laptop power supply, I plugged my laptop cord into light controller, all the lights work fine so I decided to scrap this and get a new power supply. The capacitor or whatever the large black cylinder is has scratch marks, I don't trust it. 

 

 


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#11 CanadianHobbyFarmer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 06:04 PM

Good call in my opinion Tahoe, I was actually going to suggest simply buying or finding a new power supply. Unless the load draws a lot of current, DC power supplies are cheap and easy to find. I have a box full of them around here somewhere.

 

Jim


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#12 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 08:13 PM

Now my next thread will be about my oil less air compressor that won't start and is kicking breaker  :wallbanging:  :wallbanging:  :wallbanging:  :mad2:  :mad2:



#13 tater195 ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 08:32 AM

sounds like a locked rotor, possibly from a busted rod. have you tried to spin the motor by hand both directions?



#14 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 11:20 AM

sounds like a locked rotor, possibly from a busted rod. have you tried to spin the motor by hand both directions?

 

Motor spins freely in both directions, it also is pumping air fine, I pulled line off when I tried it. 

It has 2 large capacitor things mounted on the back of motor in a plastic housing. When I took apart, mounting tab broke and there is a small contact switch on the end of motor shaft that was not making contact. I fixed that mount and it fired back up fine. Put back together, went out next day and kicked breaker again. I took covers off, motor spin and that plastics housing is still tight. Don't know what it could be other than maybe motor brushes, I've put a lot of hours on the ole girl. 

 

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Edited by TAHOE, December 30, 2015 - 11:21 AM.


#15 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 01:10 PM

One of them is the Startup capacitor and the other is the Run to keep the motor turning.  The fact that you are popping the breaker means either the start mechanical switch is faulty or a capacitor is shot or you have a shorted winding in the motor,,  Sounds like you found something on the start switch when you were in there..  Could be any one of them.  I had the same problem with my ancient compressor and after my repair attempt were unsuccessful I replaced it..  

 

Good Luck!






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