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Sears 1967 super 12 Electrical help

ignition

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28 replies to this topic

#16 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 02:24 AM

I think that's the right one, yours must not have the solenoid?

#17 bduce77 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 06:27 AM

Only thing that I'm kind of confused about is that it shows connection to a magnedo but I have a starter generator. Thinking its showing it as an option?image.png
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#18 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 06:39 AM

Not sure the question.
The spark on most of these engines are created by a Capacitive Dishcharge Spark unit (CDI)
They created their own power and you shut them down by shorting that generation to ground via the ignition switch.
Usually, these switches are designated by an M terminal instead of an I terminal.
M stands for magneto

If you have any questions, please research CDI or ask the questions.
We'd much rather that than someone damage a working CDI and have a tough decision to make on reviving the tractor.

#19 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 06:41 AM

That is the correct ignition for SS12 its a high amp switch.  I also see a starter gen in the diagram not a magneto. If your regarding to the black wire going to the engine labeled M at the switch thats just a kill to shut the engine off. 


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#20 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 07:26 AM

67 was changeover year for ignition, does you motor have the "new" solid state or does it still have points? The older year models may have point, last of the model year rum switched to SSI. 



#21 bduce77 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 07:28 AM

That is the correct ignition for SS12 its a high amp switch.  I also see a starter gen in the diagram not a magneto. If your regarding to the black wire going to the engine labeled M at the switch thats just a kill to shut the engine off.


Thanks. That's what was confusing me about the "m" just making sure I do it right. Where on the engine is this wire attached? When I purchased the tractor wires were disconnected

#22 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 07:36 AM

There normally is a black wire coming up from under flywheel around starter area for the kill wire of the SSI module. You have to first make sure it's an SSI tractor or point ignition. 



#23 bduce77 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 08:30 AM

Ssi
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#24 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 08:54 AM

I don't ever remember seeing a ignition switch that would take full cranking amps good reading this thread in case I run into one of these



#25 bduce77 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 09:08 AM

Yeah it takes it. Power cable from battery to key then to starter
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#26 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 01:50 PM

Yeah it takes it. Power cable from battery to key then to starter

That annoyed me, as well as needing a different method to shut down the engine after updating to modern ignition components to achieve spark.

 

I am not sure that just wiring alone will get your tractor fired up, as I have learned with my first sears the SSI ignition components (not the ignition switch) is old and out dated. Many sears are abandon after having ignition problems because they are no longer available at a dealer and can only buy used 30 plus year old components to replace them with. This is what I have found the hard way. but not really because for about 150.00 I was back in business. I used a very simple and reliable unit from Overnight solutions as I mentioned above but there are a few cheaper things I have seen people do as well that get the old gals sparking again.

 

Once you get it all back together if you have a no spark issue then we can talk more about that . As that requires you to run a separate toggle switch to turn the ignition on and off so I found a way to avoid that as well by putting in a ford style ignition that does not require a large battery terminal to be hooked up to the ignition or the need of a separate ignition shut off device. I should go grab my parts boxes out of the trash come to think about it in case you or others what the instructions. 

 

Anyway hope all goes well


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#27 bduce77 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 02:52 PM

Hopefully this works. The fella I purchased it from said it ran in July and he always needed to wiggle the wires to get it going ( so fingers crossed)

#28 bduce77 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 04:19 PM

Update...... While I'm waiting for parts I removed the fuel tank and plate to make room for repairs..... Here are a few pictures of what it looks like

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  • image.jpeg

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#29 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 05:53 PM

I can't help it hear two voices.
One is Goofy saying "Garsh" very expressively the other is the Meme Mechanic saying "Well here's your problem, right here"
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