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#1 mrmd OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2015 - 01:56 PM

I am attempting to get my AC b 112 ready for olcowhands spring plow day. The rear tires are filled with beet juice, I figure about 70 lbs each. How much additional weight can I add without being harmful to the tractor? Do I need to keep the weight even or put more on the high side? All ideas and thoughts are appreciated.
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#2 case442 OFFLINE  


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Posted December 27, 2015 - 04:22 PM

Wheel weights will greatly help out. Are you using ag tires or turf? Factory AC wheel weights go around 25-26 lbs. each. Personally I woud add 50-75 lbs per whel in weights. Of course the land your going to be plowing will make a difference as well.



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#3 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  


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Posted December 27, 2015 - 04:45 PM

For plowing with a 10" moldboard plow, I found my Craftsman GT6000 with Aluminum transaxle needed around 100 pounds on the right , in the furrow tire, and 150 pounds on the left, non furrow high side tire. After beat juice I cut that to half that many in wheel weights, and have 120 pounds of weight per side now. It is also important to factor in your own weight into the equation, because you can shift it in the seat, but for my 140 pounds, it does not do much for traction... Lol. On all my garden tractor plow tractors I like to have about 100 pounds on each rear tire, with an extra 40 pound IH weight on the left. I also run ATV or Ag tires. Last few years I have used the Farmall Cub to increase the quality of my plowing seat time lol. This year I will have a couple GTs set up for plowing.

I like RimGuard, good stuff, but I have to travel 1.5 hours or so each way to get any...
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#4 ACmowerguy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 10:23 PM

The axle tube is one of the weak points on the Simplicity/AC rear axles. I would avoid putting on anymore weight than required to accomplish your goal. AG tires are almost a necessity. If you have fluid in the wheels I would try it with no additional weight and see what happens. You can always add more external weights as needed.  I have plowed some fields with no additional ballast (just good AG tires) and I only weigh around 150 pounds. At another event I could have used maybe 40- 50 lbs per wheel. Some of your success will depend on getting your RH differential slip adjusted to the right "sweet spot."

Edited by ACmowerguy, December 28, 2015 - 10:24 PM.

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#5 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  


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Posted December 28, 2015 - 11:22 PM

I second that...put plow in ground and then add weight. I run 75# per wheel in winter, and found that was overkill when plowing around here with AGs. I like to run front weight too...at least one on the lwft front wheel, and a front counterweight (not punned up to counter the plow) adds great steering control.
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#6 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  


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Posted December 29, 2015 - 02:46 AM

Definitely listen to the brand specific guys, they know what breaks first.

The Craftsman GT6000 was one of those tractors in my fleet that I deemed not collectible, let's make it do hard labor. Who knew I would rip the engine I bought it for... out... to keep the transaxle I thought I could break lol.

Always remember this rule when weighting any tractor, especially open differential jobs. Set the back tires on bathroom scales to determine the "light side" and weight it accordingly to even out the distribution of weight. After that, you will learn which side truly does slip first when plowing, and weight that side accordingly to equalize the "furrow traction." The uphill side usually slips first because of weight transferring to low side and cover crop. The furrow tire sticks into the fresh dirt and gets the best weight transfer for traction. Simple math, I always take pride in that weight game. Enough so that I do own two matching bathroom scales bought just to weigh garden tractors. Lol
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