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Roof Replacement on Model RR Buildings


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2015 - 08:56 AM

On a couple of the buildings I built last winter I used 180 grit wet or dry sandpaper with a coat of black paint over the top for the roofs.  A lot cheaper and faster than the individual wood shingles.  Last spring a hail storm came through.  Needless to say the roofs did not fair to well.  Had heavy solid plastic for the base so didn't hurt that any.  Insurance put a new roof on my house but not my train buildings.  This winter I am replacing the damaged roofs.  Using aluminum "tin shingles" used as flashing around chimneys and where a roof joins another side wall, etc.  They are 5" X 7" pieces. I overlap them about 3/8".  I used DAP tub and tile kitchen and bath sealer and adhesive to stick them down.  Once this dries it is permanent and water proof.  The tin is not real shiny so think I will leave it as is and just weather it with oil base rust colored streaks of paint.  Can always change it later if i don't like it but should be a lot more permanent than the sandpaper.  Never thought about hail damage when I put the sandpaper on.  20/20 hind sight.


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#2 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2015 - 10:00 AM

:camera:  :camera:  :camera: l


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#3 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2015 - 11:45 AM

Here I was, trying to figure out how little model buildings on a model RR set up ended up outside in a hail storm.


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#4 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2015 - 11:57 AM

This is a Garden Rail Road.  Still a model but on a larger (G) scale  22.5:1.  I build all of mine out of cedar to stand the weather - except hail.

 

Before.JPG     Before-1.JPG

 

 

After-1.JPG     After-2.JPG

 

The over all look at the railroad.  Engines are battery powered and radio controlled, one with full sound.

 

Railroad Center-1.JPG

 

 

 


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#5 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2015 - 05:43 PM

Nice layout. 


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#6 MFDAC OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2015 - 08:18 PM

I wonder if 180 grit emery cloth would do the trick? Back in the '80's the sign shop I worked for sold quite a few ground level electric displays that the sheet metal "cans" had to have a concrete look. After prepping and primering the steel I mixed a similar grey with "One Shot" sign paint, dumped some sandblasting sand in the paint then rollered it on. At least one of those signs are still in use and we have very extreme weather here including a lot of hail.

 

Sounds like your plan will do the trick, I just got wondering about other options for your original idea.

 

DAC


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#7 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 05:41 PM

I agree MFDAC that emery cloth would probably work.  Plan to build a stock yard/ slaughter house combo yet this winter and will try it on that roof.


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#8 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 05:43 PM

Finished the roofs on 2 buildings this afternoon.  The last photo has the rust streaks on but they don't show up in the photo.  Need to get some sun light on the roofs now to tone them down a little.  A month or so of getting wet with dew and then sun will take care of that.

 

NR-1.JPG    NR-2.JPG    NR-3.JPG

 

Rebuilt the covered vehicle bridge also.  Started yesterday and finished it up this afternoon.

 

CB-1.JPG   CB-2.JPG   CB-3.JPG

CB-5.JPG   CB-6.JPG

 

 


Edited by chieffan, December 30, 2015 - 05:50 PM.

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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 05:53 PM

Looking good!


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#10 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 08:51 PM

Will you treat the rail or decking with anything on the bridge?
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#11 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 07:58 AM

Really nice :thumbs: Love the whole concept of the outside setup, you've done well with it, thanks for sharing. :worshippy1:


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#12 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 08:59 PM

Will you treat the rail or decking with anything on the bridge?

Being cedar it will weather down fairly fast and stand up to the weather with no problem.  Due to the heavy exposure I did put a coat of water seal on the cedar shingles.  After several years they will start to shrink and roll.  The are 1/2" wide and 5/8" long  by 1/16" thick and put down one at a time.  Haven't made my own yet bu may try it later this winter.



#13 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 09:03 PM

Really nice :thumbs: Love the whole concept of the outside setup, you've done well with it, thanks for sharing. :worshippy1:

Thank you much.  The track is laid on standard 2X6 and has been down for about 3 years.  Some was under rock except for the top so is starting to rot.  May have to start replacing it in a year or so.  Did not use treated lumber as it will warp twist, and do everything but dance when the sun gets on it if not nailed down tight.  May use something els but not sure just what yet.



#14 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 09:26 AM

Major repair work is done on the buildings.  Have some painting to do and little things but will to that as I put them out.  Now to start designing the beef packing plant.  Have some of the wood walks to rebuild too yet.  I use the open mesh type gutter guard for the backing and staple it to the 1/2" square pieces.  Laid the cedar prices to close together and when they got wet, swelled and buckled the walk way.  Live and learn.


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#15 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2016 - 07:36 PM

Looks nice. Have you considered corrugated metal roofing. I have two items on ebay that I sell. The first is HO scale & the other is O&G scale. I make both of these items in my shop. Once I get settled in to our new move I want to start selling scaled lumber again. I cut mostly poplar & cedar wood. Let me know if your interested. :thumbs:

 http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649

 

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649


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