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O Model Transaxle Cleaning


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#31 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2016 - 10:02 PM

PM sent back at ya Jim...I got a small load an its the last of my Original sheet metal & iron...
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#32 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 08:08 AM

Seems the further apart I get it the more residual goo I find  :(

IMG_20160106_123841.jpg

 

IMG_20160106_125616.jpg

 

So now its up on a bench. Honestly I haven't taken apart a transmission since the late 80's (in my work it has been more efficient to let specialized shop do them and just swap them in and out). This being the age it is I'm guessing any replacements will be worn or cruddy just like this one...

 

IMG_20160106_131437.jpg

 

Any last thoughts/suggestions before I really get into it ?


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#33 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 08:38 AM

Take lots of pics of the parts in there so you can get it back together right! At least you know it will be clean!


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#34 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 09:41 AM

Maybe stop where you are at, at this point and blow out all of the oil galleries with compressed air? It would be nice if you could get the casting good and warm to thin the sludge for further flushing, maybe? But let it be your self conviction... To me I would be more concerned if it was a hydro rear than a manual shift.
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#35 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 07:32 PM

Dug a little deeper to help make up my mind and I'm afraid it will have to come apart to really get cleaned and checked.

 

SANY0001.JPG

 

This is the detention spring for one of the shift fork shafts, both of them were just covered :(

 


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#36 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 07:42 PM

I think you will sleep better if you do clean it out more!


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#37 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2016 - 05:57 AM

On my...I guess we know what avenue you are gonna take....
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#38 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2016 - 07:15 PM

Its apart !

Consider the detent spring photo from above

SANY0001.JPG

 

Then consider the passage at the end of pencil in this photo

IMG_20160108_110904.jpg

 

That passage is supposed to supply oil to this bearing

IMG_20160108_110940.jpg

 

How much you think was getting there?

 

I didn't pull down the reduction drive yet. I will just to clean the goo out, but I have a line on one from one of the members here that I maybe able to get and use. He has some other stuff I want/need for putting together another "O" if we can work out transportation/shipping etc.

 

Ya, I'm real glad I pulled it all down. Have a couple feelers out on bearings. Really not sure where to get them. Being off work really crimps the timing of this project. (remember it was supposed to be just a flush n fill getting ready for Daniel's)

 

My wife asked at lunch today where the "O" was because she had noticed it wasn't parked in the barn where she walks by to feed her goats like it had been...she didn't quite cry when I showed her it split apart, front under a tarp and the rest in what seems to be 100's of pieces all over the flat surfaces of my shop :(


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#39 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2016 - 07:32 PM

Most bearings have a number on them, standard bearing Numbers, not tractor brand specific ones take them to motion industries they can match up or put the number you find on eBay and see what comes up, same exact thing as OEM, things like bearings have been outsourced forever. IH certainly didn't make any of them, just reboxed them w/ "their" pàrt number.
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#40 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 09:44 PM

You can also tried applied industrial technologies.

I bought skf seals from them for the Ariens I had for 4 dollars each. Ariens part number was 50 dollars!!
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#41 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 01:03 AM

IH did make a number of their own bearings as well as out sourcing of some on the Original. The West Pullman Works produced IH's ball and roller bearings. IH used a combination of Timkin- and IH made bearing whenever possible. Other brands of bearings were used sparingly.

Bearings stamped with an L or LM are Timkin, while the ST- prefixed bearings are IH made. Most of the bearings IH used in the Cub, Cub Low-boy and Cub Cadet tractors were IH made. IH ball bearings and Timkin bearings continued through the CUB CADETS PRODUCTION LIFE WITH IH.

Should be easy enough to bring your bad ones in and find replacements. (aftermarket)  


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#42 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 08:12 AM

I was able to cross the first couple to Timken.  I have a tough time reading all the fine print on the computer bearing supply pages I've found and am afraid I will miss a detail and end up with wrong parts, which would just waste money and time. I have an e-mail out to one of our sponsors hoping he has better crossing abilities than I do. I still have several that I need to clean up enough to look for numbers. The case is being hot-tanked to hopefully clean out ALL the little passages. Maybe after church n dinner I'll go out this afternoon and clean up some more looking for numbers.


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#43 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 08:54 AM

One thing is for sure....the tractor will have a renewed transaxle!  Plenty of time before my plow day, and sure hoping you get to come.  You deserve a day of fun turning dirt & telling tractor tales!  :thumbs:


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#44 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 10:54 AM

alot of the prefixes, and suffixes dictate clearances within a particular bearing, and such things as (in the case of a roller bearing) whether they are open/un-sealed, sealed-one-side or pregreased and sealed-both sides) but are otherwise the same bearing.

 

also; I have never had a trans apart on a Cub "O", (beyond the axle tubes anyway), but like everyone here have worked on lots of varied machinery over the years.  and I have gotten pretty good at finding alternative, equivalent parts sources especially on things like bearings and bushings.

 

When I got my 2 post lift (yeah just like your local automotive repair shop has to raise your car) I looked it over and found some of the chain rollers were stiff, a couple of them seized. I looked up parts for it online and found that many places would only ask for my zip code and refer me to their closest "authorized distributor" as the only places that I found that sold "lift parts" refuse to sell to private individuals.

 looking just a little farther, I saw that they were a seperate sleeve and roller bearing, that pressed apart easily in a vise (some just fell apart) and those roller bearings in the chain rollers were the same exact bearings as the ones on the carriages that the lift arms bolted to. so I'd need 14 of them. I started looking around and found those bearings to be very common in other applications from industrial machinery to being the same as the input on the old Ford 4 speed transmissions...

so I went to Ebay, and found tons of them,. from $1.50 no name imported ones, to $150+/ea. ultra precision, tight clearance ones (meaning within the bearing itself)  I found tons of known brand name ones available. I wound up having to buy from 3 different sellers to come up with 14 of them, cost me $160 shopped to my door. Even via Motion Industries (used to be Berry Bearing) the same exact bearings (brand and all) would have been $42/each.  Evan that would have been less than buying them as "lift parts" by about 1/2....  job done, no cut corners, but saved a ton.


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#45 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2016 - 10:56 AM

any that you can't cross, take to the bearing house and they can measure them up and figure out what you need pretty easily.

 

I'm used to a little "newer" machinery (considering the "O" was manufactured in the early 60's) I would not have thought that IH actually made their own bearings, though.


Edited by dodge trucker, January 10, 2016 - 10:58 AM.

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