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O Model Transaxle Cleaning


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#1 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2015 - 02:10 PM

Well Merry Christmas to all. I went out to put a hitch on the one "O" that I've been puttering with in hopes of bringing to plow day. (some additional parts came for Christmas) Anyway I decided to drain the rear axle before putting the hitch plate on. Hmmm first quart and half coming out as loosened bolts was clear water.... :( Once open it is all an ugly mess of goo and muddy goo.. :( .So more work will be required. I've never had one this bad, usually just drain, wipe and put in fresh. Yes, this one was outside for maybe years? I don't really know, but I've got it running pretty fair (still looks pretty rough) My goal was to plow with an "O" this year. So my question is should I temporarily bolt the plate back on and fill from trans/shifter area with kerosene and make a few laps and drain again ? or how is best way to get all this cleared out. Second question: will the side covers be full of this slop also or are they separated from the diff ? I see grease fittings out by the hubs on each side, which makes me think they maybe separated. They'll come off and get checked too, but I thought that might be a separate project.

Maybe I should have put this in the Cub section? But it's Daniels plow day that I'm working towards. I know my 782 plows like a beast  :dancingbanana: at Daniels, I want to see what an Original can do.


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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2015 - 03:48 PM

I had similar problems with an Original Cub and a Wheelhorse. In both cases, I pulled the transaxles apart and overhauled them. There was alot of crud that could only be removed by detailed picking and washing. There were bearings and seals that needed replacement. I got most of the parts from an auto bearing supply place. It ended up costing less than $40 per transaxle. Well worth the time and little money. The new bearings saved the gears from unnecessary wear and greatly increased the lives of the tractors. I still have the Wheelhorse. Good Luck, Rick
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#3 Manfjourde OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2015 - 07:38 PM

I had the same issue with a Deere 110. I filled the trans axle with diesel and backed it up 30 feet and drove it back to where I started. I drained the diesel, filled it with new gear lube and drove the same path. I then drained that (it was quite clean) and refilled. I figure it will do for now until I can tear it apart and redo all the bearings, etc. good luck.
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#4 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2015 - 07:45 PM

I just did a peerless 2501 in a Ford LGT.

The bearings and seals are the cheap part.

The expense is in the time to do it.

It really depends how much you value your time.
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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2015 - 07:51 PM

That ugly mess of goo was the Hytran doing its job of trying to keep the moisture away from the bearings & such.


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#6 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2015 - 12:54 AM

That ugly mess of goo was the Hytran doing its job of trying to keep the moisture away from the bearings & such.

Yes that's good, well sort of...

The oil should be in the diff if your oil seals are good, if they are bad you'll have leakage into the axle housings. What I DO on the nasty ones, are clean as much out with rags, some scraping with a plastic scraper as needed, then do the diesel fuel wash with a brush. Just keep at it till it's clean.

What I do sometimes is run some "cheap" oil for awhile to get some of the looser stuff freed up then drain and do another cleaning. Put on a new gasket, replace the Hy-TRAN, and enjoy. :thumbs:  


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#7 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2015 - 05:00 PM

Well thanks fellas  :thumbs:  I need this one to stay mobile because of where its being parked so tearing it down right now is out of the question. So I wiped it all out and brushed everything I could reach then wiped again and put the plate back on, filled with diesel to normal operating level. Drove out to the gate (about 1/4 mile) used all the gears and even backed up half the trip back. Parked on slope and drained again. Figure on letting it settle out tonight. If I can I plan to fill with Hy-Tran tomorrow afternoon or Monday then run it out to the gate again. Re-drain and inspect. Plan on repeating  this process until it comes out clean so I made up some additional gaskets out of cereal box for the process. Complete tear-down will have to wait for while.

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#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2015 - 06:22 PM

Are those pics after the diesel?



#9 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 01:38 AM

I hope I wasn't confusing you. I use some cheap no name fluid during my flushing ride around, don't want to waist good HyTran. Then when you're happy with the results, then add the HyTran for your finally oil change...



#10 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 09:43 AM

Jim I have seen way worse than your diff, was not from any of mine but I seen it from across seas...but the "O" came from the states. A German friend and IH collector bought his tractor from the Red Power Roundup when the show was in LaPorte IN and shipped overseas with other units. When it came to port for pick up and brought home he thought he had bought a piece of junk. Most of us would have walked away but his was bought sight unseen. You might remember Georg from Reidering Germany on the other Cub site. We actually met on eBay about 5 yrs ago when he was working on his 782 .... again shipped from the states that had 3,300 hrs on it.

So I think your rearend is looking very hopefully compared to Georg's project. You got some good input here! Good luck!
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#11 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 03:01 PM

Are those pics after the diesel?

Those are before diesel wash, see below

 

I hope I wasn't confusing you. I use some cheap no name fluid during my flushing ride around, don't want to waist good HyTran. Then when you're happy with the results, then add the HyTran for your finally oil change...

Yep, plan on using "off brand equivalent" first

 

 

Well its finally trying to be winter in my part of Ohio, 36 F without the windchill, BRRRR I've been spoiled.

 

Finished wiping out the diesel flush. It sorta looked like thin pinkish/red paint and then the last bit just muddiness/fluid after two days of drippingIMG_20151228_112309.jpg .

IMG_20151228_112320.jpg

In this photo can still see water beading up

 

Somewhere along the 50odd years this unit has been around somebody was really "man-mountain-finking" the bolts on the axle plate, the plate was actually bent in around holes. So I straightened the bolt hole areas with some very special tools...  (yep, old hammer and chunk of rail)

IMG_20151228_113122.jpg IMG_20151228_112842.jpg )

 

Zippy, The fluid I found is this stuff, worked out to be $1.37 a quart which is cheaper than Hy-Tran or any of my other oils.

IMG_20151228_112804.jpg

 

Ran it  down the lane to the county road ~ 1.2 miles thru all the gears and reverse again. Man was it cold and windy up on the ridge, that metal seat needs some padding/cushion bout froze some parts off :rolling: :rolling:

 

IMG_20151228_122328.jpg

 

Still muddy/watery oil in there, so more flushing trips ahead. Probably let it drip out for a day or two again. Since winter has come back to SE Ohio the next time I'm wearing overalls :rolling:

Thanks for all the input :thumbs:


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#12 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 03:06 PM

Jim I have seen way worse than your diff, was not from any of mine but I seen it from across seas...but the "O" came from the states. A German friend and IH collector bought his tractor from the Red Power Roundup when the show was in LaPorte IN and shipped overseas with other units. When it came to port for pick up and brought home he thought he had bought a piece of junk. Most of us would have walked away but his was bought sight unseen. You might remember Georg from Reidering Germany on the other Cub site. We actually met on eBay about 5 yrs ago when he was working on his 782 .... again shipped from the states that had 3,300 hrs on it.

So I think your rearend is looking very hopefully compared to Georg's project. You got some good input here! Good luck!

I remember seeing photo's of Georg's work. Can't seem to find them now. He leaves no stone un-turned in his restorations as I recall.



#13 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 04:03 PM

I remember seeing photo's of Georg's work. Can't seem to find them now. He leaves no stone un-turned in his restorations as I recall.


You got that right Jim! He made his own hood and pull start that I recall for his original but what he did to his 782 and his big tractors....wow! I have not chat with him for some time, his heart was not in the best of health. I shipped several boxes of sheet metal and iron to him in the past, even hooked him up on a set of IH hub caps. He has the most beautiful view of the Bavarian Alps mountain range where he lives. I spent some time over there and our motor pool used to be Romel's Panzer HQ east of Fulda. Germans to simply put it...overkill everything they make.

Your diff is looking much cleaner...
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#14 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 12:15 AM

Looking much better. Should bout have it next time around. Sorry if I may have missed it, but do you have the front up in the air so it'll drain a lot faster, and won't pool up on the bottom of the diff? I usually hang mine bout strait up and down over night and it's fairly dry by morning...


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#15 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 08:59 AM

Looking much better. Should bout have it next time around. Sorry if I may have missed it, but do you have the front up in the air so it'll drain a lot faster, and won't pool up on the bottom of the diff? I usually hang mine bout strait up and down over night and it's fairly dry by morning...

Front end only about 8 inches higher than back to drain, nothing  to winch from where its at, good idea though, I'll see what I can work out. Thanks :thumbs:






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