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No spark at plug on briggs and kohler

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#1 case1man OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 06:27 PM

Have a homelite with a 10 hp briggs and a ford with a 16 hp kohler both have point type ignition. Both running last month went to run stabilizer though them and wouldn't run. with key on have power to both sides of coil and points no spark at plug. Check two other Fords that are running only have power to one side of coil with key on. New Coil on 16hp kohler . Any suggestions?
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#2 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 06:38 PM

I would clean the points and check the gap on both, also try swapping the plugs. I just had an issue on my single 16hp cyl. Briggs doing this, and it was the plug.

 

Also your meter readings will be different depending if the points are open or closed.

 

Good luck!


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#3 637Yeoman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 06:41 PM

:ditto: Usually if you have spark at the points it is the plug.


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#4 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 06:43 PM

  Take the wire off the coil that runs to the points and w/ points closed check resistance thru the wire and the points to the engine block.

                                   Mike


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#5 case1man OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 07:43 PM

no power to plug tried a spark plug tester and had no power.

#6 637Yeoman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 07:52 PM

Check your plug wire then. Is ther connection to the plug corroded?


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#7 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 10:07 PM

Were they sitting outside? If your points are damp or wet it won't fire.They short out very very easily.Easiest way to make sure they are dry is to spray down the whole breaker point assembly real good with Carb or Brake cleaner.

 

The newer Champion spark plugs are Junk.Every one that I've bought in the last couple of years has failed allready.Last one was only 2 weeks old.


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#8 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 10:11 PM

Were they sitting outside? If your points are damp or wet it won't fire.They short out very very easily.Easiest way to make sure they are dry is to spray down the whole breaker point assembly real good with Carb or Brake cleaner.

 

The newer Champion spark plugs are Junk.Every one that I've bought in the last couple of years has failed allready.Last one was only 2 weeks old.

That is what happened to mine. It was a new Champion plug that might have been used 10 hours tops.


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#9 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 10:13 PM

The point side of the coil should flash when it cranks. If it doesn't ever go out, the points aren't making contact. If it never lights, the the points aren't opening or wire is grounded


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#10 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2015 - 12:55 PM

Had briggs that could do the holding of spark wire away from plug a ways and would fire and run. Wouldn't go with wire on plug. seems a second gap makes difference?? After that start, it goes back to normal starting. Are you turning Briggs by hand? Many times I find can't go fast enough for spark by hand, must use the starter for speed.  I use autolite plugs.  I bet  just points on both might be rusty or wet and cleaning is gonna help there also. I run one of those fingernail sand sticks thru mine to clean. Also on Briggs, corrosion can build up between the block and the points metal body and not be grounded good. Cleaning that off makes big difference.


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#11 case1man OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2015 - 05:58 PM

Thanks everyone both now running kohler had grounded wire briggs has points that are loose and not making good connection
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#12 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2015 - 06:19 PM

Thanks for letting us know what fixed it.  :thumbs:


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#13 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2015 - 06:46 PM

Had briggs that could do the holding of spark wire away from plug a ways and would fire and run. Wouldn't go with wire on plug. seems a second gap makes difference?? After that start, it goes back to normal starting.

I've seen that happen on motorcycles too.  Here is what I think is happening;

 

In a breaker point ignition system the way the coil works is the primary winding builds up a magnetic field while the points are closed.  When the points open the field collapses inducing an electric potential (voltage) on the secondary winding - it's like charging a battery,  Once the voltage builds up enough it jumps the spark plug gap.

 

When the spark plug insulator gets soaked with fuel it conducts well enough to bleed electricity off the secondary winding and the voltage never gets high enough to jump the gap.  When you pull the wire loose the electricity cannot "leak" off through the insulator so the voltage builds until it can jump your extra gap at which point it's high enough to spark the plug too.  Once it's running the gasoline burns off (and out of) the insulator so it doesn't short out any more.

 

This is one of the reasons you cannot be sure the spark plug is good when you test it outside the engine.  If you've got any gap between it and the engine you prevent a bad plug from prematurely discharging the coil.  It's not usually much fun to grab hold of the plug to hold it tight against the engine......

 

It's also not fun if you do what glgrumpy describes and hold the wire too far away from the spark plug.  That electricity is going to escape the coil and if the gap is too big it'll run through the guy holding the wire.

 

I've got a used but good spark plug on my bench.  One of its functions is to provide the gap glgrumpy describes.  I snap the wire onto the bench spark plug then hold its base against the plug in the engine.  That way I ensure the gap stays small enough.  It's bailed me out a couple times when I didn't just have a replacement spark plug on hand.


Edited by MiCarl, December 20, 2015 - 06:48 PM.






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