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GTV 18 Restoration


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#31 JDub OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2016 - 07:46 PM

I've finally reached the point in the dismantle that I get the joy of dealing with a rusted-on steering wheel. The nut had to soak for three days in PB oil before it would come off, and even then it required a breaker bar. Since then, I've been soaking the top of the shaft/wheel mount in PB, for a total of a week now, with additional daily does of oil. And I cannot get this #@%&! thing off.

 

The manual shows only the nut and washer; no additional parts. Is there anything else I need to take off (e.g., some kind of pin or keeper)?

 

I think I've tried every trick I've found on this forum and others. I tried a three-arm puller, which only pulled straight through the plastic on the wheel. I tried hitting the tension bolt of the puller, but to no avail. A large socket and a hammer from the top didn't budge it, nor did a pipe wrench and a hammer from the bottom. 

 

So, I think I've reached the point that it's time to cut it off. Any advice on how to do this?

 

Also, I still need to figure out a way to remove the one on the parts unit. It still has the center cap on the wheel, and isn't rusted nearly as badly. I started the PB soak on it today. Unfortunately, it seems to be pretty well rusted on too.

 

I'd appreciate any insights the experts can offer. If I didn't already have a fair amount of time and a little bit of money invested in this thing, I might have grabbed the sledge hammer today.

 

 

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#32 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2016 - 04:43 PM

Get some Acetone & ATF! Mix 50-50! See if that helps! I've quit buying PB.



#33 JDub OFFLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2016 - 09:07 PM

Get some Acetone & ATF! Mix 50-50! See if that helps! I've quit buying PB.

Forgive the naive question, but by ATF, do you mean auto tranny fluid? Just want to make sure I don't make a mess.

 

Thanks!


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#34 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2016 - 10:05 PM

Strap it up by the steering wheel so the tractors weight is on it and beat the shaft with a big punch it will come off there.

#35 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2016 - 05:21 AM

Forgive the naive question, but by ATF, do you mean auto tranny fluid? Just want to make sure I don't make a mess.

 

Thanks!

Yes.



#36 JDub OFFLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2016 - 11:23 PM

It's been a while since I've posted an update, but not because I haven't been hard at work with every extra minute.

 

First, the most important news: the steering wheel is off, if albeit in parts. After two and a half weeks of soaking in the recommended solution of acetone and ATF, with nightly pounding to try to loosen it, I finally lost patience with that roadblock. Out came the sawzall and the 4 lb ball peen hammer. It still took three different attempts, each separated by a couple days, with the torch and the hammer before the remainder of the wheel came off. Words cannot explain how I celebrated when that thing came loose and I was finally able to finish disassembling the beast. On the parts tractor, I'm patiently pounding away, hoping that wheel might just come off in one piece to replace the one that is now in the trash.

 

With the wheel out of the way, I got the unit fully taken apart. And, I quickly discovered that the bearings in all of the pulleys were shot, and, most concerning, that the variator sheave also was toast. It had more wobble than a drunken cowboy, and the internal tension spring was non-existent. So, with my fingers crossed, I crawled under the parts tractor and started removing pulleys. One by one, each one came out with shockingly smooth bearings. And, much to my surprise, the sheave was in equally great shape.

 

I'm a little short on pics at the moment, but below are the befores and afters of the pulleys and sheave. (The sheave assembly is covered in grease, so it doesn't look so pretty in the pic.) The frame got painted tonight, and I'm looking forward to starting the reassembly this weekend. 

 

And, I almost forgot--the loose valve seat. Much as I appreciated the input from folks here on peening it in, I was worried that my amateur techniques might make a mess. So, I talked with my machinist, and for $75 he machined and pressed a new seat. Assuming it holds, I'll be a happy man.

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Edited by JDub, February 01, 2016 - 11:26 PM.


#37 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2016 - 12:46 AM

It will hold as long as he did it right, I would assume it isn't the first seat he has done so I'm sure you will have no trouble with it. Got any new pics of your project as in the tractor itself tore apart. And good engine pics you took

Edited by Tecumseh power, February 02, 2016 - 12:47 AM.


#38 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2016 - 12:48 AM

Seat looks like he did a good job.

#39 JDub OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2016 - 09:59 PM

After an unplanned absence from the forum, I'm back to share my progress on the GTV 18. Before I do, a point of caution based on a lesson I learned the hard way.

 

Not long after my last post, I discovered that, somewhere between my youth, when I painted everything from bikes to motorcycles to cars, and my new garden tractor obsession as an adult, I developed an allergy to paint dust. I learned this the hard way--with a rash that quickly turned into a staph infection that nearly landed me in the ER. I was entirely out of commission for a week, and unable to work on the GTV for almost two months. The cure involved enough antibiotics and steroids to make me feel like a cross between a factory farm steer and Barry Bonds.

 

So, the lesson: if, after painting, you find small, red, itchy bumps appearing on your skin, see a doctor soon. 


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#40 JDub OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2016 - 10:01 PM

By the time I healed up, it was planting season, and I had little time to work on the GTV. Still, I took every extra minute I could. I got the unit fully disassembled, stripped everything down to bare metal, painted, and started putting it back together.

 

Here's the first pic I took of reassembly.

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#41 JDub OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2016 - 10:04 PM

I then took a small detour to rehab the plastics, most importantly the dash. It was in pretty sad shape. But, following the lesson here on the forum--plastic paint/dye and a paint marker--I got it looking pretty decent again.

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#42 JDub OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2016 - 10:10 PM

I did the same for the other plastics too, and then moved onto the pulleys and the varidrive sheeve. The latter was shot, but the one on my parts tractor was in good shape. I fed the spring on it some white grease in the hope it might last a while.

 

The bearings in each of the pulleys also were long gone. But, using a couple of sockets, I was able to press them out, find replacements for a few bucks on the web using the serial numbers, and have essentially new pulleys for a lot less than complete replacements would have cost.

 

I added those components and the plastics to the frame, and bolted on the transmission and front axle.

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Edited by JDub, July 06, 2016 - 10:23 PM.

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#43 JDub OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2016 - 10:21 PM

Then, with the help of my pops, who came to town to serve as an expert consultant, I got the motor put back together. The biggest lesson I can offer on this front is to be sure to check valve stem lengths before going to the painful effort of getting them in. I made that stupid mistake, only to discover that they'd elongated over time and had to be removed and ground down.

 

It took us about a day to get it back together and bolted down. The next opposed Briggs will take a lot less time. We weren't able to get the ignition switch to turn it over. So, we hot wired it and she fired right up. Purred just like a big kitty, and I was rather pleased.

 

I've since continued with the reassembly effort, and am working on the body pieces now. Unfortunately, I'm stuck on an electrical problem. We assumed that the ignition wouldn't turn it over because I hadn't installed the battery tray, which includes the ground for the computer. However, when I got the tray in last week and hooked up the battery and computer grounds, still nothing. Not even a click. 

 

Any suggestions? I'll share more pics after I get back from the business trip I'm headed on for the next couple of days.


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#44 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2016 - 04:39 AM

I believe what you are calling the computer is the diagnostic terminal. There are two interlock switches before the starter solenoid that may be your issue.


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#45 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2016 - 06:29 AM

Seat switch, brake switch, PTO switch on some. These are commonly overlooked areas and have caused many people to do work they didn't need to do.

If that's what it is, You wouldn't be the first guy who forgot you had to push in the clutch to start. :D (been there, done that))
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