Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

GTV 18 Restoration


  • Please log in to reply
57 replies to this topic

#16 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

Tecumseh power

    Jack of all trades, master of none.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 77571
  • 943 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: Vintondale pa

Posted December 17, 2015 - 08:28 PM

I have one of those rear ends that has a bad reverse idler in it. You could use for parts if you need it

#17 JDub OFFLINE  

JDub
  • Member
  • Member No: 76385
  • 54 Thanks
  • 41 posts
  • Location: Idaho

Posted December 18, 2015 - 11:07 PM

I have one of those rear ends that has a bad reverse idler in it. You could use for parts if you need it

Thanks for that offer. I've got a parts unit, including the rear end. I'll start with it if something's busted on this one. But, if I need something I don't have, I'll drop you a line.



#18 JDub OFFLINE  

JDub
  • Member
  • Member No: 76385
  • 54 Thanks
  • 41 posts
  • Location: Idaho

Posted December 18, 2015 - 11:08 PM

It's not bad if you follow the directions. Just takes a bit to do it right. Might practice some with the old belts. It may help there!

Funny you say that. The same idea occurred to me today on my lunch break. I'll definitely follow that advice. Nothing but rain and snow in the forecast this weekend, so I'll spend some time in the shop working on it.


  • KennyP said thank you

#19 JDub OFFLINE  

JDub
  • Member
  • Member No: 76385
  • 54 Thanks
  • 41 posts
  • Location: Idaho

Posted December 29, 2015 - 08:19 PM

Well, it's been an interesting and challenging couple of weeks working on the GTV. Since my last post, I started working to adjust the Varidrive, hoping that would address my drive problems. But, each time I tried to move the Varidrive lever to adjust the belt tension, the engine would die. Initially, I suspected that one of the pulleys was seized. However, that turned out not to be the case.

 

Instead, I had a dead cylinder on my hands. In my excitement over getting the motor running, I failed to notice that it sure didn't sound like a two cylinder motor should. A quick compression check confirmed that my excitement was misplaced. 

 

So, I pulled the head and discovered a small problem and big one. The small problem was a seized intake valve (carbon buildup). The big problem was an unseated exhaust valve seat. That problem was made worse by the fix attempted by a prior owner. I'll just say that it involved a center punch and a hammer to try to pinch the seat in place (note the divots in the pic). I know some folks use this approach and it can work. But, in this case, it only made things worse. I suspect an insufficient number of peens was the problem.

 

For now, I've got the block soaking in Gunk to get it cleaned up enough to haul it in to the machine shop. It had about twenty pounds of oil, grass, and mud built up all over it. Assuming the machinist can replace the seat and fix the mess the prior owner made, I'll have him bore the cylinders and grind the valves so I can rebuild the top end while it's apart. If not, I might have to tear apart the parts tractor and try to use that block.

 

To help ease my frustration, I continued work on the body. I stripped the engine tins and foot rests and hit the remaining rust stains with some Rust-Mort. I'll shoot some high heat paint on the engine tins this weekend and continue stripping the unit down to the bare frame. 

 

I also started work repairing some busted body parts. Following guidance from this forum and elsewhere, I used masking tape to create a mold for JB weld to fill a broken corner on the hood and a hole in one of the headlight bezels. Both will require a second JB weld treatment, followed by some fine tuning with the dremel. I'll provide a more complete write up on those efforts when I'm done.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Valve Ports.jpg
  • block.jpg
  • filthy engine.jpg
  • foot 1.jpg
  • foot 2.jpg
  • headlight.jpg
  • Hood 1.jpg
  • hood 2.jpg

Edited by JDub, December 29, 2015 - 09:14 PM.

  • Gtractor and KennyP have said thanks

#20 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

Tecumseh power

    Jack of all trades, master of none.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 77571
  • 943 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: Vintondale pa

Posted December 30, 2015 - 06:12 PM

Well, it's been an interesting and challenging couple of weeks working on the GTV. Since my last post, I started working to adjust the Varidrive, hoping that would address my drive problems. But, each time I tried to move the Varidrive lever to adjust the belt tension, the engine would die. Initially, I suspected that one of the pulleys was seized. However, that turned out not to be the case.
 
Instead, I had a dead cylinder on my hands. In my excitement over getting the motor running, I failed to notice that it sure didn't sound like a two cylinder motor should. A quick compression check confirmed that my excitement was misplaced. 
 
So, I pulled the head and discovered a small problem and big one. The small problem was a seized intake valve (carbon buildup). The big problem was an unseated exhaust valve seat. That problem was made worse by the fix attempted by a prior owner. I'll just say that it involved a center punch and a hammer to try to pinch the seat in place (note the divots in the pic). I know some folks use this approach and it can work. But, in this case, it only made things worse. I suspect an insufficient number of peens was the problem.
 
For now, I've got the block soaking in Gunk to get it cleaned up enough to haul it in to the machine shop. It had about twenty pounds of oil, grass, and mud built up all over it. Assuming the machinist can replace the seat and fix the mess the prior owner made, I'll have him bore the cylinders and grind the valves so I can rebuild the top end while it's apart. If not, I might have to tear apart the parts tractor and try to use that block.
 
To help ease my frustration, I continued work on the body. I stripped the engine tins and foot rests and hit the remaining rust stains with some Rust-Mort. I'll shoot some high heat paint on the engine tins this weekend and continue stripping the unit down to the bare frame. 
 
I also started work repairing some busted body parts. Following guidance from this forum and elsewhere, I used masking tape to create a mold for JB weld to fill a broken corner on the hood and a hole in one of the headlight bezels. Both will require a second JB weld treatment, followed by some fine tuning with the dremel. I'll provide a more complete write up on those efforts when I'm done.

I'll tell you how to fix that, this is what we do at work, I build cylinder heads there. He didn't peen it in the right place. Pull the seat out and use a really small center punch and peen where the sides of the seat touch the block go the whole way around the hole .the seat should have to be drove back in . Don't need to make the peens deep. Do it light you can do more if you have to. . Make sure to put green Loctite on it when you reinstall it. You will never have a problem with it
  • Gtractor, Alc and JDub have said thanks

#21 JDub OFFLINE  

JDub
  • Member
  • Member No: 76385
  • 54 Thanks
  • 41 posts
  • Location: Idaho

Posted December 30, 2015 - 09:29 PM

I'll tell you how to fix that, this is what we do at work, I build cylinder heads there. He didn't peen it in the right place. Pull the seat out and use a really small center punch and peen where the sides of the seat touch the block go the whole way around the hole .the seat should have to be drove back in . Don't need to make the peens deep. Do it light you can do more if you have to. . Make sure to put green Loctite on it when you reinstall it. You will never have a problem with it

Thanks, Tecumseh. I was wondering whether that might be the way to go. I'm a little worried that the inadequate peen caused the seat to bounce around and slightly mushroom the port. I'll have to look a little closer after I get the block cleaned up. 


Edited by JDub, December 30, 2015 - 09:38 PM.


#22 JDub OFFLINE  

JDub
  • Member
  • Member No: 76385
  • 54 Thanks
  • 41 posts
  • Location: Idaho

Posted December 30, 2015 - 09:37 PM

I managed to get off of work early enough today to put in some work on the GTV this evening.

 

The first order of business was to put another layer of JB weld in the headlight bezel hole I'm patching. A little touch up with the dremel tomorrow and it'll be done.

 

With a ripe pile of JB weld to use, I went ahead and set up some wax paper covered forms to act as a mold for the corner patch on the hood. That one is going to require a lot of dremel work to get the shape right.

 

Next on the list was the grill frame. The one that was on this unit was seriously bent and dented. The one on the parts tractor was in much better shape, save for a really tweaked hinge mount and associated crack, as well as a small ding. A little work with a body hammer and sheet metal pliers straightened things out. I used some of the leftover JB weld on the crack, and did the same for one of the motor tins.

 

Last on the list for the evening was to start removing the rust from the wheels. 45 minutes with the wire wheel got one of them cleaned up enough for Rust-Mort.

 

I'm looking forward to a three-day weekend to make some progress. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_1450.JPG
  • IMG_1511.jpg
  • IMG_1512.jpg
  • IMG_1510.jpg
  • IMG_1518.jpg
  • IMG_1519.jpg

Edited by JDub, December 30, 2015 - 09:39 PM.

  • Gtractor, Alc, KennyP and 2 others have said thanks

#23 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

Tecumseh power

    Jack of all trades, master of none.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 77571
  • 943 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: Vintondale pa

Posted December 30, 2015 - 11:22 PM

It probably didn't warp it , the seat will usually crack before that. If you need any advice just pm me. I have done thousands of those seats. Literally
  • JDub said thank you

#24 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

Tecumseh power

    Jack of all trades, master of none.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 77571
  • 943 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: Vintondale pa

Posted December 30, 2015 - 11:27 PM

You may have to de bur it before you put the seat in or maybe even de bur those punch marks to get it out. When you are done and put it back in it needs to be straight or the seat will bust in half. I can tell you how to make a driver to put it in. If you never saw one so you know how
  • KennyP and JDub have said thanks

#25 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,508 Thanks
  • 39,733 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 31, 2015 - 07:10 AM

Looking good! On the headlamp bezels, I try to paint the inside part with a 'bright' or 'chrome' silver. That's just to get as much reflection out of them as possible.



#26 JDub OFFLINE  

JDub
  • Member
  • Member No: 76385
  • 54 Thanks
  • 41 posts
  • Location: Idaho

Posted December 31, 2015 - 08:49 PM

Looking good! On the headlamp bezels, I try to paint the inside part with a 'bright' or 'chrome' silver. That's just to get as much reflection out of them as possible.

That's a very good thought. I was contemplating trying some of the chrome paint. Figure that since it will be hiding behind the lens, the ugliness of 'chrome' paint will be well hidden, while still providing good reflection of the light. 


  • KennyP said thank you

#27 ACmowerguy OFFLINE  

ACmowerguy
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 67204
  • 300 Thanks
  • 298 posts
  • Location: Winfield, MO

Posted January 01, 2016 - 12:58 PM

Interesting thread. Don't see many of these GTV's restored.  Thanks for posting.



#28 JDub OFFLINE  

JDub
  • Member
  • Member No: 76385
  • 54 Thanks
  • 41 posts
  • Location: Idaho

Posted January 02, 2016 - 12:06 AM

Interesting thread. Don't see many of these GTV's restored.  Thanks for posting.

Considering how ugly these units are, as well as how many folks criticize the varidrive system, I guess it's not surprising not to see too many of them restored. But, like I said at the outset. older garden tractors are hard to find here in western Idaho. I was happy to find this one, and will do my best to make her purdy and useful.


  • Alc and KennyP have said thanks

#29 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

Tecumseh power

    Jack of all trades, master of none.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 77571
  • 943 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: Vintondale pa

Posted January 02, 2016 - 12:29 AM

Considering how ugly these units are, as well as how many folks criticize the varidrive system, I guess it's not surprising not to see too many of them restored. But, like I said at the outset. older garden tractors are hard to find here in western Idaho. I was happy to find this one, and will do my best to make her purdy and useful.

I actually think they are nice I have a gt18 and a ltv in that body style. Nothing wrong with the varidrive . Just have to keep the pulleys free so they can move. What happens is they lock up and won't slide. They can be freed. Keep the shive, clean and lube the shaft. They last along time if you keep them lubed
  • KennyP said thank you

#30 JDub OFFLINE  

JDub
  • Member
  • Member No: 76385
  • 54 Thanks
  • 41 posts
  • Location: Idaho

Posted January 02, 2016 - 07:35 PM

I actually think they are nice I have a gt18 and a ltv in that body style. Nothing wrong with the varidrive . Just have to keep the pulleys free so they can move. What happens is they lock up and won't slide. They can be freed. Keep the shive, clean and lube the shaft. They last along time if you keep them lubed

I have to agree with you Tecumseh. That was just my frustration coming through. I've been fighting with a rusted-on steering wheel for over a week now and "ugly" was just one more four letter word that had to come out of my mouth. 


  • Bolens800uk said thank you




Top