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1963 Economy Jim Dandy Project


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#16 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 06:30 PM

Anyone know the the part numbers for the transmission gaskets? Also, where is a good place to get parts for economy tractors?

#17 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 07:55 PM

Here are the Warner Transmission gasket part numbers. Economy came out with a different set of part numbers for these gaskets at some point. There are a couple of sellers on Ebay that deal in Economy tractor parts, so your best bet is to get in touch with them for your needs. I made my own gaskets from Felpro gasket material that I picked up from NAPA. I'll be making the gaskets for the rear end and driveshaft tube, also. It's a good rainy day project. Briggs 23 parts are out there. Measure your crankshaft rod journal and your connecting rod while you have it apart to check the clearance. NOS standard rods aren't costly if you need one.

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#18 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 11:05 PM

Here are the Warner Transmission gasket part numbers. Economy came out with a different set of part numbers for these gaskets at some point. There are a couple of sellers on Ebay that deal in Economy tractor parts, so your best bet is to get in touch with them for your needs. I made my own gaskets from Felpro gasket material that I picked up from NAPA. I'll be making the gaskets for the rear end and driveshaft tube, also. It's a good rainy day project. Briggs 23 parts are out there. Measure your crankshaft rod journal and your connecting rod while you have it apart to check the clearance. NOS standard rods aren't costly if you need one.

Thanks for the info! Did you by any chance happen to have snapped a picture of your hood mounting hardware yet? I'm gonna start cleaning up the frame and I would like to cut that mysterious bracket off if I could.

#19 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 11:33 PM

You're welcome. My Power King has a different frame than your Jim Dandy, so the hood mounting brackets would not be the same. Here is a drawing of a Jim Dandy tractor from a 1963 parts list.

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#20 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2015 - 11:58 PM

All that I can find in the original parts list for a 1963 Jim Dandy, is part number YF-10A for FRAME, hood support, quantity 1. There is no picture or reference to it in the drawing, but it's in the parts list. Since the quantity is 1, I would assume it's the front bracket like on your tractor. The frame on my Power King is wider than the hood, so they just welded two short vertices tabs to the frame with a single hole in each one.
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#21 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 12:11 AM

Part YF-10A would be part of the frame assembly if you were to order a new frame back in 1963. You can actually see it welded to the top front frame crossmember in the drawing. I would think that the hood mount on your frame is original to the tractor.

#22 Merle013 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 01:38 AM

Great project. I hope you have fun with it. I have a 64 Jim Dandy. Partly restored. Check out my photos in the gallery. If you need a photo of a part or how something goes together let me know. Also my son got me a cd for Christmas with every manual for everything Economy Tractor made. I have seen rings for a Briggs 23 on ebay for about $20.00.


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#23 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2015 - 09:56 AM

Yes judging by the drawing, that piece does look about right.
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#24 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 01:40 PM

Put it back together enough to run it around. Put fuel oil in the bull gears to try and clean out the crud that was in there. Also put new oil in the transmission to sling that around. It took awhile to get the carburetor adjusted, but it sounded ok once I did. I don't have a lot of experience with briggs carburetors, but they appear to be pretty touchy.

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#25 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 08:26 PM

Good to see you got it up and running. Those Briggs carbs can be hard to adjust if anything is amiss. A good cleaning and a rebuild kit will make it function better, as long as the throttle shaft isn't sloppy. A new governor spring helps sometimes, too. Do you have plans to rebuild the engine?
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#26 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 09:13 PM

Good to see you got it up and running. Those Briggs carbs can be hard to adjust if anything is amiss. A good cleaning and a rebuild kit will make it function better, as long as the throttle shaft isn't sloppy. A new governor spring helps sometimes, too. Do you have plans to rebuild the engine?

I'm gonna definitely rebuild the engine. I'll probably get a new carburetor as well since the throttle shaft is a little sloppy. It appears that someone already rebuilt the carb as the needle and seat look new. The linkage that goes from the carb to the governor is also very loose.
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#27 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 09:40 PM

The governor linkage should be loose with the throttle at low idle. As you increase throttle, you will notice spring tension on the linkage. A new governor spring allows the governor to work properly through the rpm range. I would rather rebuild an old original Briggs carb than buy one of the new aftermarket carbs. New original carbs run 100 or more usually. The part number for your carb is 293950. I'm in the process of cleaning up the parts to rebuild my Briggs 23DFB now. I'm using the crankshaft from a 23AFB, since this crank measures near new. The DFB crank was worn out of spec for a standard rod and will need to be turned down. I have all of the part numbers for your engine if you need them.
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#28 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 09:44 PM

Hmm good to know. When I throttled the engine up and ran it in 3rd gear (it flies by the way) I thought there was a knocking sound coming the engine when it was under load. I will test it again tomorrow though.
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#29 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2015 - 10:00 PM

It doesn't surprise me that you may have heard some knocking from that old Briggs. I've pulled more than a few of these Briggs 23 engines apart and have found a lot of wear on some of them. Once you tear the engine down, measure the crank journal and you will know where you stand. If the crank is still within standard specs, an NOS rod is fairly cheap, and the part number for the rod is 291647.
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#30 Merle013 ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2015 - 12:25 PM

Glad to see it running. Hope the knocking is not too serious. The 23 Briggs engines are not expensive to rebuild. I have found a lot of parts for sale across the internet. The engine smokes a little on my 64 but it sounds solid. I am going to rebuild it and finish the restore on the tractor as soon as I get the garage cleaned out. Wife said if I would quit hauling stuff in then the garage might get cleaned out. I just don't understand what she is talking about. lol.


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